Routing Groove for Drawer sides.

I was taking my time to explain what I was doing. If I hadn't, it only takes 15-20 seconds to tighten the three knobs.

(Yes, sorry about the poor video quality. I don't think I'll use the head cam again in this way!)
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Good job, Richard!  Looks like that helmet cam is working out well.

Ken I think a neck brace should be worn as well to reduce unwanted movement [big grin]
 
Richard Leon said:
I used solid pine in the demo. I don't mind plywood for drawer bottoms, but not for drawer sides. It's a one-trick pony of a plane, but it does its job really well. I looked at it for a long time before getting it, but haven't regretted it for a second.

Here in the states we use (well a lot of us do) 1/2" baltic birch ply for drawers.  How does tha do hicky work with ply?
 
Richard Leon said:
William Herrold said:
Richard Leon said:
I'm not an old-school contrarian but for one drawer, I would cut the grooves with my plough plane. From start to finish I would be done in under three minutes with zero chance of making a disastrous error.

Contrast that with the time it takes to set up the router and dust extractor, clamp the wood, do a test cut, and the possibility of making a bad mistake.

Richard.
I'm not sure anything was mentioned about one drawer, and the OP has stated he's using a router (1010)

But now that you've said it.....

PLEASE post a quick vid of your under 90 second dado, with, as you stated: set-up included.

Here you go. 30 seconds to cut the groove. I started cutting at 4.45 in. Before that I introduced the plane, showed how to set up the plane, and other ramblings.

Sure I would reach for the router if I was doing a bunch of drawers, but for one drawer (my bad, I misread the original post) I would reach for the plane. I don't have a preference one way or the other- I just pick the best tool for the job and in this case I'd go with the hand tool.

Groovin' with the Veritas Plow Plane

I have & use the Veritas small plow plane and as you demonstrated it is fast to setup and cut drawer grooves.  I have a great router table but the plow plane is faster for doing a few drawers.  If I had a large number of grooves to cut the router would then win but you also have the noise to deal with.  

I love all of that glass in your shop -- you just can't beat natural light when working.
 
sancho57 said:
Richard Leon said:
I used solid pine in the demo. I don't mind plywood for drawer bottoms, but not for drawer sides. It's a one-trick pony of a plane, but it does its job really well. I looked at it for a long time before getting it, but haven't regretted it for a second.

Here in the states we use (well a lot of us do) 1/2" baltic birch ply for drawers.  How does tha do hicky work with ply?

No good at all. It's not the wood, it's the glue. Very tough on the blade. Also you would be cutting cross-grain on some of the plies. But as you can see for solid wood it works beautifully.
 
It is a kewl little plane, but most of my stuff is ply so Ill have to stick with the router.
 
Richard, nicely done.  I'm with you, much more enjoyable to do a few drawer sides with a hand plane.  I know from using both the hand plane method is much quicker than the router method, including set up.  But as you say, much less chance of a slip up.
 
Festoolfootstool said:
Ken Nagrod said:
Good job, Richard!  Looks like that helmet cam is working out well.

Ken I think a neck brace should be worn as well to reduce unwanted movement [big grin]

I'd like to see this idea in Sketch Up.  [big grin]  I don't want to know where the extended reach pole goes.  [scared]
 
BTW went to the end users class on cabinet making in LV. Steve Base was awesome.

He answered my questions and solved about every issue I have had with using festools.

I also found that using the edge guide was the way to go.

I picked one up yesterday after I returned from LV and it was a pretty quick way of routing the groove.

I wish they would of included it with the router like they used to.

I also figured out its easier to route the groove using the edge guide w/ ply in full sheets then cut the sheet to width using the paralell guides and then length w/ the Kapex.

Thanks for all your help guys.

BTW I highly recommend the classes. If you get a chance to take one or more, please do, you wont be disappointed no matter  what level you are.

 
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