Rubio Monocoat (Hard Wax Oils) vs Pure Tung Oil?

[smorgasbord]

I've been using Pure Tung Oil for years on my furniture and even interior doors. I was inspired by George Nakashima, who talked about using tung oil. For the hardwood projects I do, it's been pretty darn good.

Except:
• It takes a long time to dry.
• It needs multiple coats. Each takes time to dry.
• Repairability is hit or miss. Rarely, I get lucky and can lightly spot sand and recoat. Usually, I need an overall light sanding and recoat.
• It's not as durable as a wiping varnish. I used Sutherland Wells' polymerized tung oil on some kitchen cabinets, and the high use cabinets wore out by the door pulls.

Watching the Wood Whisperer video on 2 coats of Rubio, he touted the repairability aspect, as well as the single coat (plus one maintenance coat). This is more attractive to me than the 3-5 coats of tung oil I've been doing.

If anyone has used both the pure tung oil and the hard wax oils, I'd love to hear your thoughts, war stories, etc.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

"They say" that some of these hard wax oils are tough enough for floors. I have no experience with such a thing, but it sure sounds like it would stand up to virtually anything in cabinetry?

 

[xedos]

I've got experience with both and won't use tung oil ever again.

I've got two sapele countertops in two laundry rooms with under mount sinks installed currently.  One has Rubio and the other OSMO.  Both are holding up just fine.  A client has Rubio on their walnut floors and it looked great to me last time I was there.  Two kids and two dogs after five years.

For furniture and interior doors, it's a no brainer to me.

 

[sebr023]

Damn. I’m finishing a patio table with boiled linseed oil (don’t throw rocks at me, I’m a beginner), had read that before, I would have maybe consider it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jeffinsgf]

I've been using Osmo for a little over a year for just about everything, and I'm pretty pleased. I first saw it on New Brit Workshop and noticed how little material Peter seemed to use and how easy it seemed to be. I have to say, it is all of that and more. My only disappointment is that the last half inch in the bottom of the can has congealed into a jelly that can't be remixed. That's happened to two .75 liter cans. On the other hand, those two cans finished a LOT of projects.

 

[mattgam]

[member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] I have switched to using Stop Loss Bags with Osmo.  They sell a silicon funnel that makes it easy to fill the bag. I've found that if I crack open an osmo can and immediately transfer it to the bag I don't get that wasted goo at the end you described.  I've been doing this for about 6 months now and have been super happy with having no waste.  I just label each bag with the OSMO number and refill when its nearly out.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Thanks for that, Matt. I was considering that or Bloxygen, but the bag seems more realistic than the Bloxygen. I'll try it out.

EDITED TO ADD: Just ordered a couple Stop Loss Bags and the funnel. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[mattgam]

I like bloxygen for finishes I seldom use.  I find I use osmo all the time so the bag has been nice I just squeeze the air out between uses.  One thing with the funnel the instructions say to blow air into the bag and then fill it.  This week I forgot to do that and I found the empty bag totally flat sort of sucked the finish in from the funnel.  When I inflated the bags I've noticed there's a point where the air in the bag can hold up a funnel full of osmo and then you end up carefully burping the bag to get more to go in.  Obviously a sample set of one isn't the best recommendation but I found it worked well this most recent time.