Safer way to use a jointer?

[Toolpig]

Thanks for the kind words. I can't imaging having to joint with my thickness planer, but it's something I'm considering trying. The jointer is just so damn convenient for that. As for edge jointing, I am playing around with other options like hand planes and my router table. Who knows, I might sell the jointer at some point.

First of all, thanks for sharing your story and I'm glad you are back in the shop so soon.

Your video is the 4th or 5th I've seen regarding jointer accidents. This has totally turned me off of buying one. I like woodworking as a hobby but I also like waving to people with all my fingers.

For my case I tried the sled with a planner alternative. This worked just fine for face jointing but is definitely a longer process.

I've also bought a handful of Lee Valley planes including a scrub plane. I find using a scrub plane to roughly flatten a face before planning the other side works quite well. For edge jointing I've been using a Lee Valley #6. I'd like to get their BU #7 soon as it is longer. Hand planes are new to me but I definitely like using them even though they are way slower than using a machine. Myself I prefer the joy of using hand tools on projects but that's just my preference.

I've also wondered why no one seems to use a power feeder in the jointer. Seems much safer and the wheels can be oriented horizontal or vertical.

Thanks again for sharing and I hope that's your last serious accident.

 

[Lincoln]

I've also wondered why no one seems to use a power feeder in the jointer. Seems much safer and the wheels can be oriented horizontal or vertical.

Like I said above, a power feeder defeats the purpose of jointing. Basically turns it into a crude thickness planer.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I've also wondered why no one seems to use a power feeder in the jointer. Seems much safer and the wheels can be oriented horizontal or vertical.

Like I said above, a power feeder defeats the purpose of jointing. Basically turns it into a crude thickness planer.

Not so much. The pressure bars on a planer are on either side of the cutterhead, pushing straight down on a flat table. As we all know or have read a thousand places, they will take the crown or twist out of a board, make it thinner, but not flatter.

The offset between infeed and outfeed tables on a jointer is its unique property and the reason it can create a straight line from a crooked one. If you set up a power feeder on the outfeed table of a jointer, it is no different than keeping your hand pressure on the outfeed table. The cut has already happened and the power feeder is controlling the reference of the cut surface to the machine table.

Similarly, when edge jointing you could set up the power feeder pushing against the fence on the outfeed side, much as Jason did with the featherboards in his video.

I'm not sure a power feeder is efficient on a jointer, but there's no doubt it could be made effective to create flat surfaces.

 

[Lincoln]

Like I said, a 'crude' thickness planer - ie. it will remove material, but not straighten it. I't definitely won't remove a twist.
Feeding a board by hand, over the infeed, then having a power feeder grab it over the outfeed is even more dangerous than doing it all by hand.

 

[ChuckM]

How common jointer feeders are I don't know. They do exist according to this:https://www.woodshopnews.com/tools-machines/sunhill-machinery-adds-line-of-jointer-feeders

 

[woodferret]

Someone asked about push blocks and knuckles.  I have a Incra Pushguard that pretty much has the plexi guard removed.  I call it the suicide block and use it when hand placement gets sketchy wrt to cutters.  Lateral grip doesn't feel as good as my benchdogs though.

As for thin edge jointing on a short board, as per OPs video, an alternative could be a table saw taper jig.

 

[Mini Me]

I wouldn't use a push stick for a bet, they are dangerous unstable things at the best of times. Just my opinion of course because I don't expect many here to agree with me.

 

[ChuckM]

I wouldn't use a push stick for a bet, they are dangerous unstable things at the best of times. Just my opinion of course because I don't expect many here to agree with me.

Yes, a push stick doesn't give the kind of control a push shoe does (like this one:https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...ocks/30067-dual-tread-push-stick?item=03J7550).

By default, I use a push shoe or its equivalent on the table saw or router table. But, I use the push stick in at least two circumstances:

1) To apply side pressure
2) To finish the last bit of feeding of a stock when the push shoe will get in the way with the blade guard.

 

[Bob D.]

"Lateral grip doesn't feel as good as my benchdogs though."

I have a pair of the Benchdog push blocks and they do perform well. They grip much better than other push blocks. I keep them at the jointer sitting right on top of the guard so I would have to intentionally move them out of the way to not use them. On the table saw I use the Gripper and on the bandsaw I use a Gripper and/or a push stick depending on the cut.