Sander for Floor Refinishing

Eko

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We have a 100+ year-old home with original oak floors in desperate need of refinishing. Buying an industrial floor sander is not an option nor do I want to rent one even though it would make short(er) work of it compared to using a small handheld one. Still, that's the route I want to go so I would like to get some sander recommendations from those of you who may have ventured down a similar flooring path. Looking at the options a Rotex 150 seems like an obvious choice but perhaps an ETS EC 150/3 would be enough.

Thanks,

Todd
 
I rented a floor sander from Home Depot—the traditional belt sander and found it difficult to control. I’m sure that with some practice I could gain competency, but by then the job would be complete.

Instead, I returned the belt sander and got a 4 head random orbital floor sander. A slower operation, but no edge sander required. It probably added an hour or so to the job.

But I would note that the sander I rented was quite heavy. The newer ones that are for rent are considerably lighter. I imagine the lighter versions are easier to handle. I don’t know if they will sand as fast.

Strangely, they suggest the first pass to be done with a fairly fine grit, followed up by a much more aggressive grit. And finally finished with a fine grit.

If I were refinishing a floor today, I would try the 4 head random orbital version. The belt sander, in inexperienced hands (like mine) can result in noticeable divots in the floor.

I applied Waterlox to an infrequently used hallway and to a rarely used guest room. Any comment on durability would be of no consequence. However, the finish applied easily and looks great. Approximately 25 years old, but as mentioned rarely used.

For a rarely used room, it has my unconditional approval.
 
You didn't mention the actual square footage of the rooms you intend to refinish, but I would assume that it's way more than you want to do on your hands/knees. A Rotex is a fine machine and would be great for the inside corners and any other tight spaces, but you really need to rent a real floor sander.
 
Planex isn’t good on wood floors; I tried it on a mahogany like wood. ETS EC150/5 can work, but it’s slow. Make sure to use a hard pad, not medium.
The only reason to use some other than a real floor sander is to remove less material. Since this isn’t and won’t be a frequent thing, I’d just use the tools designed for the job.
 
@usernumber1 @Crazyraceguy

I don't know the total square footage at the moment but it would be at least a half dozen small rooms (appx. 120 sq.ft. to 200 sq.ft. per room) plus a hallway. Logistically it's not something I can do as one non-stop project because the house is not empty of people or "stuff." It will be spread out over many, many weekends. If I can sand one room per weekend I'll be happy.
 
@usernumber1 @Crazyraceguy

I don't know the total square footage at the moment but it would be at least a half dozen small rooms (appx. 120 sq.ft. to 200 sq.ft. per room) plus a hallway. Logistically it's not something I can do as one non-stop project because the house is not empty of people or "stuff." It will be spread out over many, many weekends. If I can sand one room per weekend I'll be happy.
As much as I love the Rotex, as CRG says it's a hard task for big areas. I think spreading out using a Rotex to do a number of rooms over a long period, just means you'll have very sore knee's and joints for a long period.

To me this would be ample justification to pick up a second hand floor sander, and then sell it down the track if it's no longer needed.
 
Last time we had our floors refinished my my floor guy buddy had a smallish industrial type sander in his fleet that he used (among others). Maybe you could find something similar used and resell it at the end of your project? Kind of a very long term rental of sorts?

That much square footage with a hand sander sounds really taxing. When I look at the volume of sawdust he made from roughly 350 square feet using hand sander seems daunting.

Oops Luvmytools posted a similar thought as it typed, so I agree with him!
 
If the floors need aggressive sanding to remove deep scratches and cupping, you could use the Renofix with the appropriate disk and very shallow depth. It would make quick work of a room. For final sanding I would think the Planex would work well. Just a thought.
 
@usernumber1 @Crazyraceguy

I don't know the total square footage at the moment but it would be at least a half dozen small rooms (appx. 120 sq.ft. to 200 sq.ft. per room) plus a hallway. Logistically it's not something I can do as one non-stop project because the house is not empty of people or "stuff." It will be spread out over many, many weekends. If I can sand one room per weekend I'll be happy.
If this is a lesurerly project, then maintain the leisurely rhythm by renting a real floor sander every weekend or every other weekend. I've used both the Hummel drum and the Clark rotary. The Hummel's heavy and requires 240 volts, while the Clarke is much lighter and operates on 120 Volts. The Hummel performs its task within a minute while the Clarke may take twice as long. You need to absolutely stay on top of the Hummel while the Clarke is more friendly to use.
The RO 150 is really nothing more than just an edger and can be used as such if you decide to rent the Hummel. It's just not an effective floor sander for any area larger than about 10-15 square feet. Especially if there are really dinged up boards that need to be sanded smooth AND LEVELED to the adjacent boards.

Remember, the sanding is just the first part of the journey. Once sanded, the floor then needs to be looked at for any other issues that need to be addressed and then needs to be sealed, scuffed, coated, scuffed and then finally coated again.

Solvent based coatings need to dry for at least 18 hours before recoating while water based products can be applied sooner. If you start adding up the prep steps needed along with the finishing steps it seems like a small 200 sq ft room completed every weekend would be a doable task without breaking the bank or breaking your back.

The RO 150 for full floor finishing will be tough on your knees, tough on your back and tough on your patience.
 
@MMCO

Fortunately the floors don't need aggressive sanding that would require a grinder. Even if they did I'm not sure I would trust myself with a grinder on a wood floor.
 
Thanks to everyone. All of you make a lot of valid points, especially with regard to the physical demands required to do it with a hand sander. But I have no illusions that it will be quick or easy.

You also make a very compelling argument for renting and under different circumstances you might have talked me into it. But the reason why I'm reluctant to rent comes down to simple practical logistics. I live in a large city without a car and I'm not going to drag a large unwieldy sander several blocks onto a subway or bus then hump it several more blocks to my home every weekend. Then back again the next day.

Yes, I might be able to shoe-horn it into a cab or Über etc. but that doesn't sound much better and it's more $. Nor can I borrow my neighbor's car because like me they don't have one. Even if they did I couldn't realistically ask to use their car week after week. Nothing about renting is convenient or practical in this particular case. In fact, while I find the prospect of being hunched over a small sander unappealing it seems far less exhausting than the weekly ordeal of pickup / return.

One thing working in my favor is that there's no hard finish (lacquer, varnish, shellac, poly etc.) that must be removed. Also the flooring is in good structural condition despite being more than a century old (a testament to that Old World craftsmanship as far as I'm concerned). Considering what the rest of the original woodwork looks like my guess is the flooring might have been oiled (or stained) at most. In any case I won't need to scrub through layers of finish nor do I need to remove every scratch or imperfection. It's an old house, it's part of the history and charm.

So while I completely agree the hand-sander route is far from ideal and sure to be physically demanding it's still the most realistic option. I imagine it will be similar to working in a garden hunched over for hours on end. The video @guybo posted gives me some hope that it's doable with some hard work.
 
Another option is a belt sander with a frame. You'd still need to hit the floor with the Rotex to clean up the scratch, but the heavy lifting should be considerably faster with a belt sander. The frame limits how far you can go. I learned to appreciate them with Paul Schurch as he uses his (and now I use mine) to flatten marquetry made of 1/40" or 1/52" veneers.
 
If the floors need aggressive sanding to remove deep scratches and cupping, you could use the Renofix with the appropriate disk and very shallow depth. It would make quick work of a room. For final sanding I would think the Planex would work well. Just a thought.
I did just that last year. Original red oak floors in a house approaching 100 years old, with a very penetrating dark stain, and a corresponding amount of time's worth of scratches, wear and uneveness.

It worked, though I'm not sure if I would recommend it, unless you have plenty of time. The room I did was about 170 ft square. The Renofix portion took only an hour or so. It works like a beast, and has the virtue of acting as a spot leveler for those spots where boards are a bit uneven (though I recommend spot nailing and countersinking any loose boards first). But it leaves very deep scratches in the surface. So I then had to use the RO150 starting at 40 grit working up to 100 to smooth everything out. I didn't care about the floor being truly flat at the end -- as long as you periodically check with a long straight edge you can get things approximate, but it will not be as even as when you operate with a large floor sander.

Was really happy with the results, but it definitely took a lot more time than I had initially anticipated.

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