Or buy a SYS-RB, sit down in a comfortable working position and sand the floor with your preferred hand sander while you slowly push yourself across the room.
It is almost therapeutic.
Sander for Floor Refinishing
- Thread starter Eko
- Start date
It is almost therapeutic.
Hola,
EDIT: Added 40 to my Planex Process (Thanks @Cheese , I went and checked my stash and def been using the 40)
I went through this same exercise (actually, still have more to go!) So far about 1000 sq ft done. I couldn't be happier with how the floor came out.
I took days off of work to work on it:
Floor Belt Sander
I could spend a few (or more) hours renting a sander: driving to get it, load it up, get acquainted with it, then spend the time to bring it back.
Risk of digging in the floor is HUGE with those big belt sanders.
You also have limited time with the sander as its being rented.
Much easier in the act of sanding, just walking around.
Faster.
OR
Rotex
Get the Rotex; The time required for picking up and bringing back, I could be sanding.
No time limit, so not being rushed.
"Safer" for someone who isn't a floor sanding professional.
Oh, I also get a Rotex out of it when i'm done. <<Only Pro checkbox I needed
More blood sweat and tears while using it.
First sanding with Rotex 150 and 24grit (also had the "oh Sh!t" handle attached (495188)).
Followed by Planex with 40, 60, 80 and 100
Used a CT36AC with the Festool cyclone attached (didn't use the AC function, just HEPA filter and regular bags)
Used Berger Seidle Base Oil w/ No color, applied with trowel (small 10" Level 5 skim blade) and an Oreck ORB550MC and White pads( I was going to go Rubio, but my GAWD that gets expensive on the floors). I toyed with going with a white toned oil from Berger, but I thought about it and its just super "in" right now. Went with the plain base oil in the end, cheaper, easier, and classic.
floormechanics.com
Super happy with how they came out.
LONG STORY OF HOW I GOT TO MY PROCESS
I did a brand NEW qtr/rift sawn white oak floor with the Rotex 150 and the newer Planex. I mention this as it does impact the amount of effort (imagine would be "easier" for you if floor already flattened when installed). It took a good amount of Rotex effort to get rid of the dips and whatnot, especially where the ends of boards toungue and groove together.
IMO, you might not have to go as crazy as 24 Grit on the Rotex if you are just removing old Varnish/Finish.
My first attempt was to just use the Planex, with 24 Grit, with the CT dust collector pulling on full suction. Spent a bunch of time going over the whole floor, and in the daylight from above, looked great.
I then put down the festool raking light in the dark; oh boy, it needed a lot more sanding to really flatten out the tongue and groove, especially on the ends of the pieces where they meet. I bet the Planex could do it (there was decent duct in the cyclone after my first try), but i'd imagine youd need to sand for 24 hours straight.
So, after that failure, it was my excuse to buy the RO150.
***Heavens Opened and the Angels Sang***
So using the RO150 with 24grit, 202461 soft pad, flattened it out pretty quickly. It was indeed a workout though. I'm 43 (42 when i first did this method) and yeah, you feel it, but was legitimate Gym workout replacement. I did the sanding on my hands an knees, in the dark while moving the raking light around the areas, so it was easy to track which spots i hit. The rotex in aggressive mode, you just have to keep moving, but its still safer than the belt sander in one spot too long. With the rotex, i could take all my body weight and sand all around in an area, and it wouldn't even blink.
After the Rotex 150 (rotex 90 in corners) with 24 grit, I moved on to the Planex, with the "soft" pad (577252), highest CT suction (sucks it right to the floor), and i used the harness handle attached (just gives it extra weight and something else to hold onto). I moved through the grits, 40, 60, 80, 100, floor came out awesome. After having been on the floor with the Rotex, the Planex and using it while just up on your feet is like a vacation.
EDIT: Added 40 to my Planex Process (Thanks @Cheese , I went and checked my stash and def been using the 40)
I went through this same exercise (actually, still have more to go!) So far about 1000 sq ft done. I couldn't be happier with how the floor came out.
I took days off of work to work on it:
Floor Belt Sander
I could spend a few (or more) hours renting a sander: driving to get it, load it up, get acquainted with it, then spend the time to bring it back.
Risk of digging in the floor is HUGE with those big belt sanders.
You also have limited time with the sander as its being rented.
Much easier in the act of sanding, just walking around.
Faster.
OR
Rotex
Get the Rotex; The time required for picking up and bringing back, I could be sanding.
No time limit, so not being rushed.
"Safer" for someone who isn't a floor sanding professional.
Oh, I also get a Rotex out of it when i'm done. <<Only Pro checkbox I needed
More blood sweat and tears while using it.
First sanding with Rotex 150 and 24grit (also had the "oh Sh!t" handle attached (495188)).
Followed by Planex with 40, 60, 80 and 100
Used a CT36AC with the Festool cyclone attached (didn't use the AC function, just HEPA filter and regular bags)
Used Berger Seidle Base Oil w/ No color, applied with trowel (small 10" Level 5 skim blade) and an Oreck ORB550MC and White pads( I was going to go Rubio, but my GAWD that gets expensive on the floors). I toyed with going with a white toned oil from Berger, but I thought about it and its just super "in" right now. Went with the plain base oil in the end, cheaper, easier, and classic.
Berger-Seidle Classic BaseOil Liter
Floor Mechanics is the world's fastest delivery of flooring supplies to contractors. We have a huge inventory of hardwood flooring and concrete flooring products in stock. Free shipping starts at $75 orders. Orders usually ship the same business day. Great customer service and fresh products...
floormechanics.com
Super happy with how they came out.
LONG STORY OF HOW I GOT TO MY PROCESS
I did a brand NEW qtr/rift sawn white oak floor with the Rotex 150 and the newer Planex. I mention this as it does impact the amount of effort (imagine would be "easier" for you if floor already flattened when installed). It took a good amount of Rotex effort to get rid of the dips and whatnot, especially where the ends of boards toungue and groove together.
IMO, you might not have to go as crazy as 24 Grit on the Rotex if you are just removing old Varnish/Finish.
My first attempt was to just use the Planex, with 24 Grit, with the CT dust collector pulling on full suction. Spent a bunch of time going over the whole floor, and in the daylight from above, looked great.
I then put down the festool raking light in the dark; oh boy, it needed a lot more sanding to really flatten out the tongue and groove, especially on the ends of the pieces where they meet. I bet the Planex could do it (there was decent duct in the cyclone after my first try), but i'd imagine youd need to sand for 24 hours straight.
So, after that failure, it was my excuse to buy the RO150.
***Heavens Opened and the Angels Sang***
So using the RO150 with 24grit, 202461 soft pad, flattened it out pretty quickly. It was indeed a workout though. I'm 43 (42 when i first did this method) and yeah, you feel it, but was legitimate Gym workout replacement. I did the sanding on my hands an knees, in the dark while moving the raking light around the areas, so it was easy to track which spots i hit. The rotex in aggressive mode, you just have to keep moving, but its still safer than the belt sander in one spot too long. With the rotex, i could take all my body weight and sand all around in an area, and it wouldn't even blink.
After the Rotex 150 (rotex 90 in corners) with 24 grit, I moved on to the Planex, with the "soft" pad (577252), highest CT suction (sucks it right to the floor), and i used the harness handle attached (just gives it extra weight and something else to hold onto). I moved through the grits, 40, 60, 80, 100, floor came out awesome. After having been on the floor with the Rotex, the Planex and using it while just up on your feet is like a vacation.
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Thats my situation, and part of why i chose my process in my other post
. I can' get to the whole house all at once. I own the tools, and dont have to spend the money/time to go rent the sander constantly. (I guess you could argue i'd get some time back because it would be faster?)With regards to time and the physical requirements to do it with the Rotex/Planex. Yep, of course it takes more time. But trade off is you own the tool, you just wrap up the cord and put it in the systainer when done. And I have a rotex for a million other things, and had the Planex anyway for doing all my own drywall/painting work. Those play into my decisions too.
For the physical aspects, yeah, it hurts a little. I guess if you are totally out of shape and dont take care of yourself, have a disability, are older, or a decent hike would make you collapse, it could be a problem. I actually enjoy the work and sweat when I've been doing my rooms. I'm 43 and have faired fine. I also have the inspiration of my 65 year old father, who helped me install the floor before finishing it, who is an absolute machine and would stop short of calling me a P**** every time i stopped for a break while swinging the stapler mallet
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Cheese
Member
Yeah, need the suction all the way up!@Ebuwan the floor looks real good.
I'm surprised that you went from 24 grit in Rotex mode to 60 grit in Planex mode and all the scratches were removed. That says a lot for the capabilities of the Planex when it's sucked down to the floor.
Also, did that right after doing the Rotex, so took my time, was nice to stand/walk around and not be on the floor for a bit, LOL
I do have some 40 grit; I'm thinking about it, you might be right and I omitted that from my write up that I actually used that too. I just checked my stash and the matching amount of 40 grit is missing as 60, 80 and 100.
@Ebuwan
Thank you for responding, I especially enjoyed your "machine" father comment. Very funny.
Your floor does look amazing. I do like some rift sawn wood.
As I've said before in this thread I have no illusions about the physical demands of being hunched over for hours on end. Sometimes physical discomfort is simply part of the job. A concept that was finely honed during bootcamp. Granted I have a few years on you but I was actually more concerned about whether it's something I can do without damaging the floor, and I believe it is.
As for renting a machine I can appreciate your points quite well. Sometimes it's not the easiest or best option. I think I've been clear as to why it's not a logistically practical option in my particular case, which I realize falls outside the norm for many people.
And like you I've considered it a good reason to buy a new tool.
Thank you for responding, I especially enjoyed your "machine" father comment. Very funny.
Your floor does look amazing. I do like some rift sawn wood.
As I've said before in this thread I have no illusions about the physical demands of being hunched over for hours on end. Sometimes physical discomfort is simply part of the job. A concept that was finely honed during bootcamp. Granted I have a few years on you but I was actually more concerned about whether it's something I can do without damaging the floor, and I believe it is.
As for renting a machine I can appreciate your points quite well. Sometimes it's not the easiest or best option. I think I've been clear as to why it's not a logistically practical option in my particular case, which I realize falls outside the norm for many people.
And like you I've considered it a good reason to buy a new tool.
It's definitely doable without damaging the floor; just gotta keep moving. Having a good raking light is almost arguably a must IMO. It points out really quick if you are hitting a spot too hard.
But I'm in the same situation as you, 1 room at a time. One bedroom is not too bad labor wise; I did a Den, Foyer, Living Room at the same time, and yeah, it gets tiring, especially after having to rip up extra sub floors and god awful tile that was attached with some crazy adhesive in the 60's; A diet of Monster energy drinks and cigarettes for contractors started to make sense to me.
But I'm in the same situation as you, 1 room at a time. One bedroom is not too bad labor wise; I did a Den, Foyer, Living Room at the same time, and yeah, it gets tiring, especially after having to rip up extra sub floors and god awful tile that was attached with some crazy adhesive in the 60's; A diet of Monster energy drinks and cigarettes for contractors started to make sense to me.
P_K
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
- Messages
- 399
Having recently refinished a sizeable white oak floor at my home largely using a Rotex RO 150, I'd offer the following:
- Do not skimp out on knee pads. I'd recommend these.
- When stripping the finish off, you'll need to change out abrasives frequently. I did not find that Festool 40 grit Granat discs preformed as well as 36 grit Indasa Red Line ones which cost about 1/2 the price.
- Finish up to 100 grit not skipping any, vacuum religiously then go over the floor with a dry Swiffer XL to get up any remaining particulates.
- Apply the finish of your choosing, I like Basic Coatings, starting with Hydroline Sealer. This will raise the grain a fair amount, sand it back down to 100 grit, vacuum, Swiffer, then 2 additional coats finishing up to 120 grit after the second coat. I used Basic Coatings Pure Matte, came out amazing looking.
- You'll see videos on YT by some pros on how to use a T-Bar to apply finish, this is far more difficult to do well than they make it look. I've gotten very decent results using a 10 inch trim pad and a paint tray. Much easier to control, especially in a small space.
- Water-bourne finishes are generally fine to walk on with clean shoes or socks after a few hours but defenitely no furniture for a good 10 days after the last coat. Most if not all of these finishes will scratch pretty easily with anything heavy.
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luvmytoolz
Member
leakyroof
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Messages
- 2,538
Yes, that’s the route we took. This way, you’re working on the room you want, when you want, with no rush to return a Rental Machine. Once fully done, you have the option to sell that machine and recoup some money.
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