sanding cast iron question

festal

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Dec 12, 2019
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Hello all.  Got a question. picked up a used jointer and it has some junk on the table.  I got most of it off with scotchbrite and rust free but some stubborn areas remain.  I want to hit it with my etsec 125 but want to check to make sure it wont get damaged with cast iron dust?
planning to go over the table lightly with 320 grit and finish it off with something higher.  Any issues with doing it?

Thank you
 
I've done it.  Works fine.  Cast iron is soft, so be careful at the edges.  You can round them off just like when sanding wood. 

It's controversial, but a single coat of wipe-on poly afterward really does work well.  It doesn't build up a film, but it does cut the friction.  And prevents iron transfer to the wood. 
 
I would try using a large hone stone with oil first.  Carborundum is available in larger sizes in the tile section in home stores for dressing the edges of cut porcelain.  You won’t run the risk of creating divots that way.  Google “carborundum flattening stone” and you will find many examples.  I’ve always used the cheap Home Depot stones, but the preferred versions have grooves cut in them for.  See the google search to see what I mean. 
 
I’m probably overthinking it. It’s pretty good just the circled part is what I’m trying to fix
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Looks ready to use to me. If you want to make it brighter by sanding more and with a machine you have to be careful to sand everywhere equally to avoid spoiling the planes.

If the circled part is a high spot scrape it down. If it is a low spot just ignore it. You can’t sand down a low spot. You’d have to lower everything around it to get rid of the low spot and that would surely spoil the plane in the process.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Looks ready to use to me. If you want to make it brighter by sanding more and with a machine you have to be careful to sand everywhere equally to avoid spoiling the planes.

If the circled part is a high spot scrape it down. If it is a low spot just ignore it. You can’t sand down a low spot. You’d have to lower everything around it to get rid of the low spot and that would surely spoil the plane in the process.
It’s a high spot. Not sure what it is. Maybe something hardened on it, glue or something . I mean I can feel the rough stuff when I move my hand over it but I don’t think it will actually effect anything

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Michael Kellough said:
Slide a straddle over the spot. If it doesn’t catch it’s not a problem.
What’s a straddle? I slid piece of wood and it went fine. Should be even better after applying wax

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I've done that before to my jointer and band saw table. Use DC on the ETS EC to suck up any cast iron dust as the ETS EC doesn't have an internal impeller that's needed for duct collection.

Both 320 & 400 Granat will gloss over pretty quickly but in this situation that's a good thing. I agree with Michael, unless that's a high spot or it prevents the boards from sliding smoothly over it it's looks good to go. The wipe on poly sounds good while others use a good paste wax. I use Boeshield or Dynaglide, both spray on, dry fast and protect well.
 
OK, disregard my comment.  Sanding is NOT  the way to attack this one.  Scraper might be, good luck.

Once you get the blob dealt with, THEN use the 320+ to blend the entire surface if you feel the need. 

 
Cheese said:
I've done that before to my jointer and band saw table. Use DC on the ETS EC to suck up any cast iron dust as the ETS EC doesn't have an internal impeller that's needed for duct collection.

Both 320 & 400 Granat will gloss over pretty quickly but in this situation that's a good thing. I agree with Michael, unless that's a high spot or it prevents the boards from sliding smoothly over it it's looks good to go. The wipe on poly sounds good while others use a good paste wax. I use Boeshield or Dynaglide, both spray on, dry fast and protect well.
Yep that’s what I’m thinking. Boards slide over it fine. I have glidecote , faster to apply then wax

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Just tested and no issues. Did sand it a bit with 400 and 800 did knock it down a bit. Sprayed it with glide cote and ran a board through it. Might be good idea to swap knives for a new set

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festal said:
Michael Kellough said:
Slide a straddle over the spot. If it doesn’t catch it’s not a problem.
What’s a straddle? I slid piece of wood and it went fine. Should be even better after applying wax

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Sorry, spellcheck got me. Meant to write straightedge.
 
festal said:
It’s a high spot. Not sure what it is. Maybe something hardened on it, glue or something . I mean I can feel the rough stuff when I move my hand over it but I don’t think it will actually effect anything

You probably already know this, but the idea of a jointer is to plane one side of the board so that it's perfectly flat/straight.  I'm not sure how high that "high spot" is.  The board can certainly slide over it easily, but if it's too high, it will cause the board to rise up and your plane is now a warp, lol.  I would take a 3 foot straight edge and lay it down over the high spot.  If you get a see-saw effect where one end of the straight edge is showing a gap, you need to sand that high spot down more.
 
Aux2496 said:
festal said:
It’s a high spot. Not sure what it is. Maybe something hardened on it, glue or something . I mean I can feel the rough stuff when I move my hand over it but I don’t think it will actually effect anything

You probably already know this, but the idea of a jointer is to plane one side of the board so that it's perfectly flat/straight.  I'm not sure how high that "high spot" is.  The board can certainly slide over it easily, but if it's too high, it will cause the board to rise up and your plane is now a warp, lol.  I would take a 3 foot straight edge and lay it down over the high spot.  If you get a see-saw effect where one end of the straight edge is showing a gap, you need to sand that high spot down more.
Got it sorted out. It was some hard crude that was stuck.  3 in 1 oil and sand paper took care of it

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