Sanding tips for new woodworkers......

gkeas

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2007
Messages
388
....Like me.

1. Start with an appropriate grit for the condition of the surface you are sanding.  (60 grit on an RO125 in Rotary mode WILL EAT WOOD INCREDIBLY FAST.  VERY VERY FAST.

2.  Don't skip grits.  Take the smallest steps you can.  I started (after a couple of experiments) with 100, 120, 150, 180, 220)

3.  Don't dwell too long with any one grit.  Make a few passes over the entire surface, then wipe with cloth, step to the next grit.

4.  When sanding plywood, remember that there is only a very thin layer of surface grain BEFORE you hit another layer of grain running the OTHER direction.

5.  Get in a rythm.  Sand, cheesecloth, switch grits, repeat.

and finally...

6.  Always, ALWAYS, remember to put the new sanding disc on.  As good as Festool engineers their products, sanding with only the pad (no paper) is terribly ineffective.  Even if you spend 5 minutes or so wondering why you are making no progress, it just doesn't work.  ::)

Yes, kids, I'm guilty.  This should go in the stupidest things post, but I felt like I needed to confess my sins.

I also have a few domino slots in a face frame I didn't need.  I marked the edge of where the edge of the face stiles were going to be, but didn't come back and mark the center (where the divider was going to be), the proceeded a few minutes later to plunge all 4 locations 3/4" too far out.

After silent swearing (there was no one around to appreciate my color, so I kept it inside), I remembered reading on this forum that others simply glue in a domino, let it dry, then cut a new mortise.  I did that, and all is well.  Fortunately the finish will be very dark, so the difference in material wont be noticable.

The other good thing is that this is my first piece of furniture (a TV stand for an ancient 40" Mitsubishi tube) and it is going in my kids' play room.  They wont care, and will be thrilled to have the TV off the floor.

I hope I don't screw up this bad when making my MFT/Sysport.  I'll really cuss then. ;D
 
If it can make you feel better I once tried to do some polishing with the Rotex. I was going through the different compounds and pads.  At one point I realised I was happily polishing without a pad but I sure didn't forget the coumpound  :o
 
Emmanuel said:
If it can make you feel better I once tried to do some polishing with the Rotex. I was going through the different compounds and pads.  At one point I realised I was happily polishing without a pad but I sure didn't forget the coumpound  :o

Sounds a bit messy. I recently tried using Cristal to remove some adhesive that was on the surface. Didn't take to long to clog up the Cristal.
 
I would add another step in your sanding, particularly for solid wood surfaces of nice furniture. Once you get to 180 or 220 grit, wet the entire surface down and let it dry. Then sand it with that same grit. Go to the next highest grit and sand. Then wet it again, let it dry, and sand with the same grit. This will get all the little fibers that get pushed down into the grain by sanding. You'll be amazed at how smooth your surfaces are. They'll come out looking like glass even before you finish them. These steps are not so critical with painted wood, but with a clear finish, they make a huge difference.
 
Don't waste your time sanding beyond 180 grit on bare wood. Especially if you're applying any kind of stain. You most likely don't even want to go that high if you're staining. You'll get your best results by using the finer grits in between coats of finish. There's a reason Festool doesn't sell Rubin paper in anything higher than 180 grit, it's a waste of time.

 
I must say I concur.  I spent a recent couple of weeks setting up test boards and trying a bunch of finishing combinations (shellac, oils and varnishes) to find out for myself what I liked and what I didn't.  (I tested on Cherry and Bubinga for those interested.)

Part of this was sanding the raw wood to final grits of 180, 240 and 320.  When all was said and done, I couldn't tell any difference. 

The only time I'm going to deviate from this is on end grain where I usually sand to 1 or 2 grits higher.  I'm still not convinced that this works however...

Carl
 
I want to clarify something.  I did not post this as an actual instruction sheet for sanding.  It was an attempt at humor, that has seemingly failed.  I do appreciate the info from the more seasoned sanders, though. ;)
 
Garry said:
I want to clarify something.  I did not post this as an actual instruction sheet for sanding.  It was an attempt at humor, that has seemingly failed.

Now that is really offensive.  I printed it out at 1200dpi on bond paper, laminated it for durability, framed it and hung it in a prominent place on the wall of my shop.  And now you tell me it wasn't really a guide to be followed with precision, step by painful step?

I think you need to put out a real sanding instruction sheet and send me a laminated copy, printed on bond paper (with frame)!

::) ??? :o :o

 
You have to post a picture of a Domino built frame to get a copy of the sanding instructions!
 
Dave Rudy said:
Garry said:
I want to clarify something.  I did not post this as an actual instruction sheet for sanding.  It was an attempt at humor, that has seemingly failed.

Now that is really offensive.  I printed it out at 1200dpi on bond paper, laminated it for durability, framed it and hung it in a prominent place on the wall of my shop.  And now you tell me it wasn't really a guide to be followed with precision, step by painful step?

I think you need to put out a real sanding instruction sheet and send me a laminated copy, printed on bond paper (with frame)!

::) ??? :o :o

I don't think I'll send it.  I'll put in one of my Domino built frames (as per Eli, which I actually already made), and drive it down to you.  ;D
 
Back
Top