Saw Blades

I use a thin kerf WWII on my saw for almost everything, except when I have several pieces to rip.  A full kerf rip blade just seems to perform better.  I also use a 4" stabilizer, which helps tremendously with deflection.  Currently, I use a Freud Glue-Line Rip blades for hardwoods, and am very pleased.  I wasn't crazy about their combo blades though. 
 
I use a full-kerf WWII for most of my cuts.  I do have a few different dedicated rip/crosscut blades (no Freud though).  I'm lazy and would rather not swap out blades all the time.  I have found that there is a cut quality that is "good enough".  For all material < 6/4, the WWII provides that cut.  For thicker material I use a rip blade for rip cuts and either the WWII or rip blade for crosscuts (depending on the material and thickness).  The WWII is good enough to go straight to glue up and that's good enough for me.
Thin/Thick kerf is up to you.  With one exception (a Freud combo blade I use for plastic and MDF) all my blades are thick kerf.  Even after reading the FWW article I'm not moved to change.

 
Thanks, mwhafner.

I've been contemplating that very blade for ripping.  Freud states that the ideal range of wood thickness for the 30 tooth is 1/8" - 3/4", while the 24 tooth is 3/4" - 2 3/4".  Have you ripped thicker stock with this blade?  I sometimes rip 8/4 stock for legs, etc.

Joe

I cut 6//4 and 8/4 white oak all the time.  The Freud blade works great, even on my contractor's saw.
 
I have one word to say, Matsush!ta.

Sorry it usually gets edited.

Best blades I have ever used.  They have a blade for everything.  Made in Japan.
 
You can either use the thin kerf Forrest along with their 5" dampener OR the standard kerf (1/8") with or without the dampener. I am a thick saw plate fan as TK blades simply cannot offer the same quality of cut. AVOID AT ALL COST blades that are riddled with laser cutouts. Laser expansion slots are fine but when you get into plates that are full of laser cut outs for "vibration" run don't walk.
 
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