Saw rails

I combined 1400, 1900 and 3000 rails together several times to make joint-ready 17' cuts on a bar I made several years ago.  I just rolled the rails up on the spine and tightened the set screws on the joiners, checking the alignment with a 6' level.  Perfect cuts everytime, probably not possible with even the best of tablesaws.
 
Ah yes!  So much quicker, more convenient and (for me) far more accurate than all the problems trying to set up for such a long cut with Table Saw. 
Tinker
 
In my shop nearly always I make 90 degree cuts in sheet material on my beam saw, which gives me a "Festool-Quality" glue-ready edge. I also own a large and accurate slider saw which is very effective for non-90 degree angles.

However, because before I owned those big saws or had a shop with enough space I gained confidence in my Festool guide rails and TS55, often if I am making one-off parts from sheet material involving non-90 degree angles, I use the guide rails on big benches. Those are 4x8 and 4x10 topped with Birch 19mm ply that for some reason was not attractive enough for a job, or was left over from a job. I find the TS55 makes the best quality cuts when the downside of the sheet is against a smooth sacrificial surface. In the shop I use a 3000mm or 1900mm rail for rip and cross cut since space is no problem.

When I work away from my shop I avoid using a table saw, since I am experienced using my TS55 and rails. I seldom transport the longer rails, although they fit on my truck, because it can be difficult getting them inside where needed. I have two of the USA rail bags, so I can protect while carrying a total of 3 1400mm rails a single 1080mm LR32 rail and two sets of connecting bars. Never have I had problems connecting my rails in the field.
 
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