Sawing aluminum with Jigsaw PS300
- Thread starter suds
- Start date
Forrest Anderson
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 1,072
suds said:
The manual suggests that aluminium should be cut between speeds 3 and 5, with pendulum action between 0 and 2.
Just as important is the choice of blade, and Festool has two brochures on that subject at http://www.festool.co.uk/images/gb_downloads/brochure_jigsawblades.pdf and http://www.festoolusa.com/supplyimages/JigsawBladeCompChart.pdf
The latter one recommends the 486554 blade for 3/16" - 5/8" aluminium, and 486556 for 1/16" - 1/8" thick aluminium.
Depending on what blade you use, you may want to place the metal sheet on a sacrificial sheet of thin wood to stop it buckling.
Forrest
It may be prudent to prepare the blade by sawing in a candle before sawing into the aluminum. The stearine or candlewax will significantly reduce the sticking or "build-up"of aluminum on the sawteeth. Repeat as neccessary.
Spraying with WD40 works, but is less effective. Dipping in kerosene works OK, but poses a substantially bigger fire-hazard.
Waxine lights work very good, as the waxine has slightly better anti-build-up properties then does stearine ( normal candlewax ) but although they're abundant over here, I don't know if theyre readily available where you live.
1/8" should be readily sawable without support, but when sawing thinner, like say 1/16" I would recommend you follow Forrest's advise and use some light plywood to support the material - between the sole/base of the saw and the aluminum. So when sawing from underneath ( a common way to use a barrel-grip jigsaw ), the metal would be on top. When using a sacrifical board, the waxine/stearine will be soaked up in an alarming rate, so keep some handy during the cut. Sawing from underneath, it's easy to apply some - just lightly touch the blade while it works. But mind your digits please...
Regards,
Job
Spraying with WD40 works, but is less effective. Dipping in kerosene works OK, but poses a substantially bigger fire-hazard.
Waxine lights work very good, as the waxine has slightly better anti-build-up properties then does stearine ( normal candlewax ) but although they're abundant over here, I don't know if theyre readily available where you live.
1/8" should be readily sawable without support, but when sawing thinner, like say 1/16" I would recommend you follow Forrest's advise and use some light plywood to support the material - between the sole/base of the saw and the aluminum. So when sawing from underneath ( a common way to use a barrel-grip jigsaw ), the metal would be on top. When using a sacrifical board, the waxine/stearine will be soaked up in an alarming rate, so keep some handy during the cut. Sawing from underneath, it's easy to apply some - just lightly touch the blade while it works. But mind your digits please...
Regards,
Job
Rob-GB
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- Joined
- Nov 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,101
What Forest said [big grin].
Also another approach to sawing thin material, metal and timber products alike, is to keep the material over a 'V' cut in a sub-base such as that on a traditional sawhorse end. The edges of the 'V' help support the workpiece and reduce 'chatter'.
This may be of use to your particular needs now or later.
Rob. (just searched for a pic of what I mean to no avail, hope it is not too unclear)
Also another approach to sawing thin material, metal and timber products alike, is to keep the material over a 'V' cut in a sub-base such as that on a traditional sawhorse end. The edges of the 'V' help support the workpiece and reduce 'chatter'.
This may be of use to your particular needs now or later.
Rob. (just searched for a pic of what I mean to no avail, hope it is not too unclear)
I didn't mean you should secure the Trion, and the D-handle is a bit less useable for underhand-work. Then again, I think it's better catered for overhead work.
Using the D-handle, the preferred way to saw is with the saw on top of the material.
Regards,
Job
Using the D-handle, the preferred way to saw is with the saw on top of the material.
Regards,
Job