Sawstop Questions

[Stoli]

First off, no haters please. After a momentary lapse that only cost me 4 stitches, I have decided the cost of a new sawstop is less than the risk of injury and followon costs.

First question: is there a forum where sawstop users congregate? I don’t see one linked from sawstop.com and nothing shows up on a google search.

Main question: I am trying to choose between a contractor and professional saw. Either way, I plan to upgrade the fence, so I believe they are the same. I also believe the motors are the same (1.75hp). I have been WW for 10+ years now, and feel that I am ready for an upgrade from a contractor saw, but my main issue is that I have a small basement shop and need to be able to get the saw down (really only a 1 time issue that I can get movers or friends to help with), mobility, and maximize storage. I have seen the great examples of saw stations made from the contractor version, and this looks optimal for my situation. I can’t figure out how to combine that idea with the PCS: both of the PCS mobile systems look like they only directly support the saw base, and the extension table is cantalievered off. So if I make storage/router tables, they would hang from the rails and be supported with legs under normal use—will the mobile systems be able to deal with this? Or is it advisable to simply lift the PCS onto my own mobile torsion box?

 

[TomGadwa1]

The lifter systems on the Sawstops will lift the extension tables with the rest of the saw. I tried it out and it works very well!

 

[Stoli]

Will the lifter system work with a whole set of storage cabinets and a router box?  Cantaleivered out the full 50"?

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Stoli,
You will want to call Sawstop on the motor issue.  I seem to remember that they use a different motor in the contractor saw.  You might also call them with your dilemma and get their take on the best system for your needs. Let us know.

 

[jbasen]

I own the Sawstop 3hp professional cabinet saw.  In my case my shop is on the 2nd floor of my house in a bonus room over the garage.  Moving the saw was not a big problem.  You will have to remove the cast iron top from the saw, which is attached by 4 bolts.  Once the top is removed the main cabinet with the motor and trunnion assembly can be carried by 2 people. 

If you have access to 220vac power I would recommend the the 3hp model.  I found that it was a smoother running saw and there is power to spare cutting hardwoods.    My shop is small so the ability to move the saw is very important.  I bought the higher end Sawstop mobile base that uses a hydraulic jack to lift the saw.  It works very well and the saw is very easily moved around the shop with it.  I would also recommend the over-arm dust collection system.  It will greatly cut down on the amount of dust thrown into the air by the saw. 

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions.

Jay

 

[Birdhunter]

I am the extremely pleased owner of a Sawstop Industrial saw. It is a wonderfully engineered and executed piece of machinery. It replaced an old, but still highly functional Delta Unisaw.

I looked at all 3 of the Sawstop saws (Contractor, Professional, and Industrial) at a dealer about an hour  from Atlanta. I ruled the Contractor model out immediately. It looks like a great job site saw, but not what I would judge as a serious workshop saw. I do some very high precision work on the table saw and the Industrial had the extra mass I thought would add to accuracy.

There is a very big difference between the Contractor saw and the Professional saw.  If you can handle the difference in cost, I believe you will be exceptionally pleased. The step up from the Professional to the Industrial isn't as big as from the Contractor to the Professional.

If you buy the Professional model, I don't know why you would want to upgrade the fence. It's the same as on my Industrial model, just a tad shorter, and it's a great fence.

I bought the hydraulic mobile base because I have a cramped workshop and I need to be able to move equipment around.

The dealer included delivery and set up. I'm glad they did. Set up on the saw took the two guys about 3 hours and they have set up dozens of these saws.

Dust collection is excellent.

If you decide to do the set up yourself, read the manual first and follow the instructions exactly. It is extremely important to set up the clearance between the saw blade and the brake exactly as the manual shows. If you don't, you might not have the safety feature work if needed. A nickel coin is required (believe me) for setting the clearance.

Sawstop has a different brake module for dado blades than for standard blades. Also, the diameter of the dado has to be as specified in the manual.

One word of caution, read the manual again before you turn on the saw. Even initial set up (cutting the opening) of the table insert needs careful reading.

I found the customer support staff to be friendly, well able to answer questions, and quick to answer the phone.

Again. I strongly urge you to go for the Professional model. You will be a happy camper.

 

[Birdhunter]

I posted my response too quickly.

I forgot to add that the over the table dust collection/blade guard is a "must".

You need a high volume dust collection system. A shop vac just isn't adequate.

I bought the 3HP single phase 220v motor model. It is totally adequate for deep cuts in hardwood.

Another tidbit on setting up the table insert. I bought an extra insert. One is for 90 degree cuts where the zero clearance makes a difference. The other is for 45 degree cuts where the opening is much wider than the zero clearance insert.

The saw blade that comes with the saw is the pits. I run Forrest blades in my Sawstop and they are perfect.

 

[Slappy]

[popcorn] I myself am getting a PCS , looks like before the end of the year
So I am watching this thread with intent  [tongue]

I'm looking at the 3HP but looks as if I'm ordering for Acme Tools as they will ship Free & no sales tax
that in it's self will pay for the extra things like D/C arm & the deluxe lift  [drooling]
I plan on the Incra LS system & don't know if the extension tables are needed / I plan on a router table combined with the SawStop

 

[jbasen]

You might want to wait a month until late January to order your saw.  For the last couple of years Sawstop has offered a special deal starting in mid-January where you can get a free over-arm dust collector with your saw.  I ordered my saw in late December a few years back and missed out on it by just a few weeks.  I don't have any inside knowledge that they will make the same offer this year but I know they've done it for the last 2 years, at least.  Either that or talk to the dealer and see what they can do for you as an end of year incentive. 

Jay

 

[SittingElf]

[popcorn] I myself am getting a PCS , looks like before the end of the year
So I am watching this thread with intent  [tongue]

I'm looking at the 3HP but looks as if I'm ordering for Acme Tools as they will ship Free & no sales tax
that in it's self will pay for the extra things like D/C arm & the deluxe lift  [drooling]
I plan on the Incra LS system & don't know if the extension tables are needed / I plan on a router table combined with the SawStop

No, you don't need the extension table from Sawstop if you are going to use Incra's router extension table. I didn't even install the right hand cast iron part of the main table...just the Incra table right of the saw. The Incra Table with the TS-LS and a lift work just fine....and I used the long Incra rails as well.

To the OP.... I was an original prototype tester for the PCS and I can tell you that they are SERIOUS about quality. Strongly suggest the PCS over the Contractor saw....AND if you can swing it, the 220V 3HP will make you an even happier camper!

Cheers,
Frank

 

[Stoli]

If you buy the Professional model, I don't know why you would want to upgrade the fence. It's the same as on my Industrial model, just a tad shorter, and it's a great fence.

Sorry, slight mis-statement on my part.  If I go with the contractor version, I will upgrade the fence to be the same as what comes with the PCS/ICS.

 

[Slappy]

The PCS has a smaller footprint than the contractor model IIRC

 

[Stoli]

I believe you are correct about the footprint, especially considering how the motor hangs out the back of the contractor saw.  However, it looks like it is easier to make integrated storage/router station with the contractor saw.  Here is what I am thinking about:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/47610

I guess the options are to create a mobile torsion box to hold the saw and all the cabinetry, or use the ICS mobile base and have all the cabinetry "hanging" from the rails while in motion.  I just have not seen either option.

 

[Stoli]

For the last couple of years Sawstop has offered a special deal starting in mid-January where you can get a free over-arm dust collector with your saw. 

Thanks for this note.  I was kind of expecting some specials for Black Friday, but really didn't have my act together (obviously).  I may wait because I am definately interested in the dust collection blade guard.

 

[teocaf]

Here's my personal experience with SawStop.  After getting by with a Festool TS75 track saw and MFT and all kinds of shop made jigs for several years I ran into a hard need for a tablesaw.  I looked at Powermatic, Delta and SawStop.  After I took delivery of a new Powermatic sander with a major fit and finish issue and could not get a satisfactory response from their rep, I crossed that brand off the list.  I ended up with a contractor SawStop 120v with the 52" extension and mobility base because my dealer had a floor display model at a discount which I'm told is not very common with this brand.  For the past two years I have been very happy with the unit.  The fit and finish quality is great, as is the Biesemeyer fence that came with it. The power is ample for all the stuff I've put through it (sheet goods, alternate materials, wood slabs), because I keep a number of very good quality blades for it that I use for specific tasks and I let the sharp blade cut the material  and not just jam stuff through it. The mobility base works great but I was personally uncomfortable with hanging any more weight off of the cantilever part of the unit when I had to make that decision.  I also like the idea that I can take the cast iron plates off and put lightweight plates on it for a field unit for a mobile shop that I will be putting together later.  I have no complaints with the unit itself, but I will be getting a boom arm dust attachment for it next.  Ironically, the safety feature is probably the least used for me because I am always disabling it to cut aluminum and pressure treated wood.

 

[PaulMarcel]

I love my 3hp PCS; I got one of the firsts since i pre-ordered and waited, impatiently.  Not sure I can find a problem with it; it was very well thought out.

I have the 36" T-glide fence and PCS Mobility base. I have shelves, router table, router dust box with router, and all that out on the catilevered table and have no issues. Moves well!

Do you really need a 52" fence? I got the 36" because I didn't want to dedicate that much extra floor space I'd likely never use.  Sure enough, after many years, only once did I go "if I had the longer fence, I could set this directly". Really, it was a landmark day.  Rotated the board and set the offcut instead.

I made my own overarm dust collector for it.  Takes little time to make and costs next to nothing.  I prefer it to the SawStop version because I can easily rotate it down out of the way, which is important when using the router table installed in the extension wing.

I have a category for SawStop articles on my blog. The photos+text article on making the overarm dust collector is there. I also have a video there that tours my PCS's setup including showing how that overarm collector rotates in and out.  That video was shot when I had no clue about lighting and had some harsh bulbs; you'll still see the saw, though.

 

[Stoli]

Do you really need a 52" fence?

Fair question.  I currently have 60" on my old Ryobi BT3K, and have used it all, but infrequently.  Right now I am in research mode, and trying to find out what the ICS mobile base can handle.

My first option currently is the 1.75hp 52" PCS.  But so many people are recommending the 3hp version that I may need to rethink that.  Longer aftermarket rails will always be available, but the 3HP conversion will probably only be around as long as the company is around.  I will have to rethink this and look at the budget.

I already have an overarm dust system setup, and expect to be able to hook it up to the improved blade guard.

I have already been through your web site, multiple times.

From the lack of answers to the first question, I assume that there is no real location for sawstop users to congregate.

 

[SittingElf]

They congregate here and lumberjocks and sawmillcreek.org. Probably the most on sawmillcreek.

Cheers

 

[leer]

My first option currently is the 1.75hp 52" PCS.  But so many people are recommending the 3hp version that I may need to rethink that.  Longer aftermarket rails will always be available, but the 3HP conversion will probably only be around as long as the company is around.  I will have to rethink this and look at the budget.

Other than safety, I am not sure what sizable advantage you'd gain with the 1.75HP model, over your BT3000.  I was ready to buy a SawStop 3HP PCS, until I discovered Festool track saws. My biggest issue was breaking down sheet goods.  The track saw works great for that.

What I did do to breathe new life into my BT3100 was to install a Forrest WoodWorker II blade.  Wow, glides thru 8/4 oak. Gives the old saw some new life, but I would still like to get a SawStop some day. For now, I am in Festool Acquisition Mode (FAM) for the foreseeable future.   [big grin]

 

[Slappy]

My first option currently is the 1.75hp 52" PCS.  But so many people are recommending the 3hp version that I may need to rethink that.  Longer aftermarket rails will always be available, but the 3HP conversion will probably only be around as long as the company is around.  I will have to rethink this and look at the budget.

Other than safety, I am not sure what sizable advantage you'd gain with the 1.75HP model, over your BT3000.  I was ready to buy a SawStop 3HP PCS, until I discovered Festool track saws. My biggest issue was breaking down sheet goods.  The track saw works great for that.

What I did do to breathe new life into my BT3100 was to install a Forrest WoodWorker II blade.  Wow, glides thru 8/4 oak. Gives the old saw some new life, but I would still like to get a SawStop some day. For now, I am in Festool Acquisition Mode (FAM) for the foreseeable future.   [big grin]

Yeah I see where you're coming from ,
I've got  a Delta lunch box planer , a standing drill press ( it's new )  a old worm drive Skillsaw , B&D sawzall ,Delta 10" miter saw ,  a cheapo jig saw & a B&D orbital sander , B&D 5" belt sander , Craftsman router & useless table . 5 dewalt cordless drivers / impact
I  been using this set-up for years & I just struggle building speaker cabs , I seem to be chasing my mistakes in square  [sad]
  me I have No TS , No jointer, No Band saw
  BUT now I have a TS55REQ 55" & 118" tracks ,Domino 500 ,  a soon to be cut  new router table , PC 3 1/4 router & Incra lift & LS super system
coming in the next 4 weeks are a SawStop 3HP PCS , Hammer A3-31 jointer/planer combo, Hammer N4400 bandsaw  .
My ClearVue  Max cyclone shipped today .
I'm getting the full Incra LS for the SawStop  as Frank suggests while they have that holiday Incra sale