SealCoat alternatives—cost is going through the roof.

[Packard]

I use Zinsser’s Seal Coat as a clear primer/sealer under other clear finishes.

Key for me are:

1. It is water-clear
2. It does not raise the grain
3. Non-toxic when dry
4. Provides excellent adhesion to the substrate and to the subsequent clear finishes (oil based or water based

Key objection:

The current price of 1 gallon is $80.00 (Amazon); $70.00 (Ace Hardware); $98.00 (Walmart).

I have an older can with a price label of $29.00.

Any alternatives??

I will use a non-toxic, water based acrylic over pine. If I don’t use a sealer, the water-based acrylic will raise the grain and add hugely to my labor.

I may very well end up buying a gallon of Seal Coat—one gallon lasts a long time. The best deal is from Ace Hardware (about a 15 minute drive).

The clear finish is for toys. The acrylic and Seal Coat were chosen because they are non-toxic and I am familiar with the application methods.

 

[Steve1]

Yeah, I put a few coats of shellac over just about anything I finish.
I mix my own from flakes. I don't think it's any cheaper.
Price of the shellac has been going up rather drastically for a couple of years now.

 

[Michael Kellough]

“gallon of Seal Coat—one gallon lasts a long time”

As long as the steel can doesn’t leak. I hang gallon cans from the basement rafters because it’s not as cold up there.

Last year I saw something new on the basement floor, an amber blob. It was sticky so it couldn’t have rolled there. I looked up and saw a thin amber string hanging from the bottom of a can of Seal Coat. A pin hole, that wasn’t the result of damage. Inherent vise.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Mixing your own, from flakes, allows you to control the mix ratio. In your particular case, that might be perfect. All you're really looking for is sealing, enough to not raise the grain later. You can experiment with making it weaker, saving some material and knowing that you have the rest in dry form.

Personally, I would switch to a wax/oil blend, for the same projects. Totally natural, safe. It can never peel, since it is not a film finish, it hardens inside the wood fibers. There is a slight darkening, over totally dry wood, but no more than most.
Use Linseed oil, rather than Tung oil, since the later darkens with time. It is exceedingly easy to apply, since you essentially wipe it all off, after coating and allowing to soak for a few minutes.

 

[Packard]

Mixing your own, from flakes, allows you to control the mix ratio. In your particular case, that might be perfect. All you're really looking for is sealing, enough to not raise the grain later. You can experiment with making it weaker, saving some material and knowing that you have the rest in dry form.

Personally, I would switch to a wax/oil blend, for the same projects. Totally natural, safe. It can never peel, since it is not a film finish, it hardens inside the wood fibers. There is a slight darkening, over totally dry wood, but no more than most.
Use Linseed oil, rather than Tung oil, since the later darkens with time. It is exceedingly easy to apply, since you essentially wipe it all off, after coating and allowing to soak for a few minutes.

I am back to making toys. Seal Coat + Polycrylic = child-safe finish.

I bought a pint of Minwax’s Sanding Sealer. I intended to use it under Polycrylic, but the instructions say it is intended for polyurethane top coat. So I’m not sure it is compatible.

The sanding sealer requires more labor, as it will raise the grain. But I also read it decreases the durability the top coat (I think for floor finishes).

 

[kevinculle]

I too use Seal Coat pretty routinely in the finishing process. I buy it by the quart, and the price has risen steeply but it works so well that I will just keep using it.

 

[Packard]

I too use Seal Coat pretty routinely in the finishing process. I buy it by the quart, and the price has risen steeply but it works so well that I will just keep using it.

That’s the decision I have made too. The problem is that it is getting hard to find.

As an aside, I apply Seal Coat as a wipe-on finish. I’m able to get a light, even coat—and no cleanup. I use Scott Rags-In-A-box, folded into a small square. When I’m done, I unfold it and drape it over the edge of my trash can until it is dry.

I tried foam brushes, but they all seem to get soft and floppy in a hurry and I go through a lot of brushes. And safe disposal is not as simple as with the shop towels.

I just tried a can of General Finishes Endurovar. I really liked the warm tone, but no matter what brushing technique I used I would end up with drips.

I tried a light, even coat with a brush. I tried a near-dry brush technique, and because of the viscosity, I tried wipe on. The wipe on seemed to work, but the next morning the finish slow migrated through the “window” hole and accumulated at the opposite side. (I dried these car bodies using posts that fit the axle holes, so the pieces were on their sides. Perhaps vertical drying would get a better result—but I doubt it. I suspect it would simply move the runs to a different location.)

Normally, I apply Minwax Polycrylic as shown on the completed toy car. I also applied a coat of Butchers’ Wax with 0000 steel wool, which knocks down the shine a bit and leaves the finish feeling “silky”. The gloss Polycrylic is apparently a different formulation than the semi-gloss, the matte, and the “flat” versions, all of which are cheaper than the gloss version.

Seal Coat (shellac) is a child-safe finish. In fact every M & M you have ever eaten has a coating of food-grade shellac to give it shine. It took some digging but I found that both Polycrylic and Butchers’ Wax are also child-safe finishes.

Oil based Polyurethane is rumored to be child-safe when dry, but all that is from forums and blogs. I did not find that information on any official website. Several coats of shellac would do the job—but as this thread indicated, shellac is getting expensive. And it is not very durable.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Cute car!

 

[Packard]

Cute car!

Thanks. The kids played with it, and the adults think it’s cute.

I made a dog (that involved too much work) but was my most successful design. Red oak ears and tail, poplar body.

 

[MacBoy]

I made a dog (that involved too much work) but was my most successful design. Red oak ears and tail, poplar body.

Ohhhh, love that

 

[Packard]

Ohhhh, love that

Thanks. But too much work.

The attachment point of the ears had to be shaved to about a 10 degree angle with a tenoning jig prior to shaping. The the edges had to be rounded over with a router after shaping with the scroll saw.

The tail didn’t require th shaving operation, but did require a mortise. I tried my mortising machine, but it was easier using the drill press and a hand chisel.

In addition, it requires all the same operations as all the other toys.

So I made runs of 10 toys. I estimated it took 20 to 30 minutes for each one. But the dogs took over an hour each, and I was not convinced that it would get played with more than the other designs.

I gave a few of the toys as a gift to some of the baristas that were especially nice to me for their younger siblings or nieces or nephews.

I asked one how her nephew liked the dog. She blushed and said, “I liked it so much, that I put it on a shelf in my bedroom, and I bought my nephew a gift for Christmas.

So, it begs the question, “How many got played with?”

In any case, too much work, though it was my favorite.

 

[luvmytoolz]

@Packard Worth making just for the fact it's so cute!

 

[Packard]

@Packard Worth making just for the fact it's so cute!

I am in the process of making next years’ toys. Six designs, which will make 60 toys. Most of the blanks have been sawn to shape. If I add the dog, it will be mainly for the children of friends. I will see how far I get as I near Christmas.

I only started making the toys because my back hurt and I was not easily able to handle sheets of plywood. The toys, by contrast, all fit in your hand, and are generally made from scraps, which are easily handled.

I’m playing it by ear.

I did invest in the scroll saw, which I discovered that I enjoy using. So a big plus there.

 

[onocoffee]

I am in the process of making next years’ toys.

At last, Santa has revealed himself. And lives in New York State!

 

[Packard]

At last, Santa has revealed himself. And lives in New York State!

My label says, Geppetto’s Workshop. So, not Santa.

 

[luvmytoolz]

My label says, Geppetto’s Workshop. So, not Santa.

Are they mainly for lesser fortunate families, if so do you approach any timber suppliers to get donations of material? If not I think a lot of companies would be very receptive.

I've often thought if I was in a position to retire, spending my time making gifts on a larger scale than just friends and family would be a very rewarding and worthwhile pursuit.

 

[Packard]

Are they mainly for lesser fortunate families, if so do you approach any timber suppliers to get donations of material? If not I think a lot of companies would be very receptive.

I've often thought if I was in a position to retire, spending my time making gifts on a larger scale than just friends and family would be a very rewarding and worthwhile pursuit.

I’ve never asked anyone for free or discounted lumber. I’m not sure that they would believe me.

When I retired, I did some calculations (which did not include $10.00 per gallons heating oil that I read was possible because of the Iran thing, and I don’t know what electricity is going to cost either)) and it was pretty clear that If i lived modestly as I have, that my money will last to the end. (The goal, of course, is to run out of money the day before I die.)

The one scenario that would put my retirement into jeopardy is if I tried to make more money. Either I would invest in a money-losing scheme, or I would sell a defective product that would get me sued.

So I give away toys and other gifts. No aspirations to make money off of the woodworking.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’ve never asked anyone for free or discounted lumber. I’m not sure that they would believe me.

When I retired, I did some calculations (which did not include $10.00 per gallons heating oil that I read was possible because of the Iran thing, and I don’t know what electricity is going to cost either)) and it was pretty clear that If i lived modestly as I have, that my money will last to the end. (The goal, of course, is to run out of money the day before I die.)

The one scenario that would put my retirement into jeopardy is if I tried to make more money. Either I would invest in a money-losing scheme, or I would sell a defective product that would get me sued.

So I give away toys and other gifts. No aspirations to make money off of the woodworking.

Maybe not lumber suppliers but you could approach cabinet shops about clearing out the scrap bin.

 

[Packard]

Maybe not lumber suppliers but you could approach cabinet shops about clearing out the scrap bin.

I hadn’t thought of that.

I recently made 10 flower presses for donation. I used the old oak doors off of my kitchen cabinets for the project. A failed concept though. They turned out great, but as gifts to the needy, a failure. It would require nominal expenses, which would be frustrating for the child when mom decided a week’s worth of canned vegetables had priority over a can of decoupage liquid.

I gave away a couple, to people I knew, but they never used it (or they never showed me anything from the presses).

But cabinet scrap would make some nice projects. I have not seen any cabinet shops around. I will have to look online.

 

[Packard]

I bought can of Minwax’s Polycrylic Gloss. It was $5.00 per pint more expensive than their semi-gloss or matte finish.

I opened it up and it appears to be identical to Varathane’s Triple Thick version (now owned by Minwax). I did not like the Varathane stuff, and I don’t like the Minwax version.

But I found online that thoroughly dried Minwax oil based poly is child safe (as long as it has cured for at least 30 days). That is my favorite clear, which I apply as a wipe on (40% mineral sprits added to the stuff in the can). So I think I am OK on finish now.

Neither Lowes nor Home Depot had inventory of pints of Seal Coat, so I ordered it from Amazon @ $22.99 + tax. Arriving Wednesday, and I have enough on hand to carry me until then.