Second Festool router question

Roseland said:
+1 for the OF1010 and edging accessories.

Andrew

+1 for this +1. I love my 1010 and 1400. The pistol grip is super comfy and have never had a bit in there that bogged it down. LEDs would be nice though..
 
blaszcsj said:
Roseland said:
+1 for the OF1010 and edging accessories.

Andrew

+1 for this +1. I love my 1010 and 1400. The pistol grip is super comfy and have never had a bit in there that bogged it down. LEDs would be nice though..

It's not a battery tool, make it a Halogen bulb; much nicer color and more complete spectrum.
 
Edward A Reno III said:
As for the 2200, yes it's powerful.  But as a few have already mentioned, it's power should not obscure how delicate a machine it can be (in a positive sense), since it allows for precision micro-adjustment of the depth without having to de- and re-plunge.  Also the only router for which you can get a base made specifically for the guide rail.  It's a financial commitment though to get the router plus the full accessory systainer.

At that point, you'd be well on your way to a real shaper.
 
Though I don't have a Festool router, I did see someone recommend the DeWalt 611. I have one of those with both bases, it's a magnificent little guy for 1/3 the price of the 1010.
 
Cheese said:
Coen said:
It's not a battery tool, make it a Halogen bulb; much nicer color and more complete spectrum.

It also creates a lot more heat and the bulb filament is susceptible to router vibration.

Yes, for the same amount of light, it does. But contrary to LED, it still needs heatsinking.

On the vibration thing; lower voltage = thicker filament = longer life.

If you mod a Maglite 3D with a 30W Halogen bulb and another with a 10W LED; they will both get equally hot on the whole body if you burn the batteries empty in one go. Halogen bulbs release their heat through the front while LED's dump their heat on the surface they are mounted on. There are a lot of products with LED lighting where the brightness will halve after a few minutes due to the LED overheating.
 
nerves said:
...so what did the OP decide/ go with?.

New valve cover gaskets for my wifes car and a Sawstop saw for me? The router budget went elsewhere last month.

sadly, I still haven't made up my mind. I just had to send my 1400 back to Festool for repairs few days ago. I had used it a whole two times before the trigger lock gave up on me and was completely useless in my CMS table. I can't say I am blown away by Festools build quality quite yet. Once I get it back and I finally see it working as its supposed to, I will revisit picking up a second one.

I will definitely update once I figure it out.
 
Dan- said:
Edward A Reno III said:
As for the 2200, yes it's powerful.  But as a few have already mentioned, it's power should not obscure how delicate a machine it can be (in a positive sense), since it allows for precision micro-adjustment of the depth without having to de- and re-plunge.  Also the only router for which you can get a base made specifically for the guide rail.  It's a financial commitment though to get the router plus the full accessory systainer.

At that point, you'd be well on your way to a real shaper.

That makes no sense. Even if a decent shaper didn't cost two to three times or more what the Of2200 and kit cost they do totally different things.

With a shaper you take the material to the machine, with the router you take the machine to the material. So though the OF2200 cost quite a bit it serves a totally different purpose.

Try cutting a 48" disc with a shaper and then putting an ogee edge around that disc with that same shaper, obviously that's a big set up task with a shaper. Try putting a nice deep profile on the edge of a piece of trim size hardwood, a hassle of a set up with a router.

There just is no reason to say dont get an OF2200 because it cost as much as a shaper (or router table), they are different tools that excel at different tasks.
 
I don't have a 2200 in my CMS that is until I moved to the UK so now I do, when I return to the USA I won't. But I also have a 1010 for smaller free hand bits. I do use the 2200 free hand for larger bits. The 2200 is awesome to use free handed. Excellent balance and say to control.
 
ekalb said:
... I just had to send my 1400 back to Festool for repairs few days ago. I had used it a whole two times before the trigger lock gave up on me and was completely useless in my CMS table. I can't say I am blown away by Festools build quality quite yet. Once I get it back and I finally see it working as its supposed to, I will revisit picking up a second one.
...

When it sits in a table a Porter cable (110v) or a triton (230v) does most of it, and the dust collection is not as big of a concern because it is easier to overcome... And the table does not care about ergonomics.
 
No one-size-fits-all right answer here.  Depends on what you want to do.

I build furniture.  I have the 1010, 1400, and 2200.  Used to have the MFK700, but sold it when I realized I never used it.

The 1400 gets 95% of my use.  1010 is good for small spaces where a 1400 wouldn't fit.  2200 is good when I have to hog a lot of
material but that's pretty seldom.  I love its smoothness and balance, but for me personally, its way too heavy to be a good hand-held tool.

I have a router table with a 3 HP Porter Cable.  Its done all I've asked with no hesitation.  Never had a problem in the ten years I have had it.  If you need a shaper, buy a shaper.  As slick as the 2200 and the CMS are, a shaper is just a better class of tool altogether.
 
I had a 1400 in the CMS for a while and the 1010 for handheld work. Later I added the 2200, which tends to live in the CMS, but it's easy to get in and out. I've also got a 700 that's just setup for trimming.

If I could only have two it'd be the 1010 and the 2200. Nothing wrong with the 1400 at all and if you're in the US and want to stay within Festool US guidelines, a 1010 and 1400 is perfectly good unless you need the added grunt of the 2200 to spin extra large bits or work with solid surfaces.
 
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