Seeking help with a project

kev carpenter

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Jun 3, 2009
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Hi looking for advise on a job i have doing a screen panels and plant pots (10 each) for a beer garden for a restaurant .

The panels will be bade from 2x2 and have perspecs panels with logo. looking for advise on joinery (i sold my domino last year [doh]) but might buy another one or maybe the mafell [embarassed] (no fighting) . looking for a quick bust fast joinery and must last a few years.

Plant pots will be bolted to the ground so the base will have to be strong maybe dado the the sides to except it but i have no dado set for the table saw and might go threw a few router bits and might joining the legs to ply sides dado or join with dowels or domino.

also looking for advise on finish might be black or stained or varnish.
any advise will be grate thanks.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/Kevinpaul1/singfestool.jpg
 
I think I would be tempted to use traditional mortice and tenons for the frames, if I didn't have a domino. But I have a tenoner which makes that quicker, what about half laps glued and screwed?
 
I have a couple of suggestions...

For the panels, you might consider knock-down joints with cross-dowels.  The outside edge of each stile where the bolts would enter will be completely hidden by the planter box recess where the two lower rails join, and at least partially obscured by a plant where the upper rail joins.  With at least the bottom two rails joined to the stiles with cross-dowels, it's possible to extract the plastic panels.  This adds a lot of value relative to permanent joinery, as it allows selective replacement of worn or damaged plastic, advertising changes, holiday colors, and disassembly for refinishing of the rails and stiles.

The diagrams show your planters as a box with no top or bottom, but it seems to me that with the deep side panels there would be ample opportunity for supporting structures inside.  For instance, a platform for a plant pot to sit on could provide racking resistance, similar to the back of a cabinet box.
 
CDM said:
I have a couple of suggestions...

For the panels, you might consider knock-down joints with cross-dowels.  The outside edge of each stile where the bolts would enter will be completely hidden by the planter box recess where the two lower rails join, and at least partially obscured by a plant where the upper rail joins.  With at least the bottom two rails joined to the stiles with cross-dowels, it's possible to extract the plastic panels.  This adds a lot of value relative to permanent joinery, as it allows selective replacement of worn or damaged plastic, advertising changes, holiday colors, and disassembly for refinishing of the rails and stiles.

The diagrams show your planters as a box with no top or bottom, but it seems to me that with the deep side panels there would be ample opportunity for supporting structures inside.  For instance, a platform for a plant pot to sit on could provide racking resistance, similar to the back of a cabinet box.

Thanks never even thought knock-down joints makes sens .

Mark  mortice and tenons would be good but not really priced for, really priced for about 4 days plus finishing. what you think about the mafell doweler.
The reason i want another domino or mafell is for making cabinets for kitchens etc and maybe this job.

all advise is very welcome  [thumbs up]
 
What kind of wood are you using?  Whatever it is, I would try to find quarter-sawn stock that could have less of a tendency to warp and twist.  2x2's are really prone to this

Are the panels to be locked in place somehow so they can't rack?  I tend to stay away from dominos if racking is a possibility.  Stacking 2 dominos in a joint gives added strength and is very easy to do with 2" stock.    I have used very few dowels since having a domino.  Half laps are quick to do and are very strong if glued and clamped properly.

Use Titebond 2 or 3 for outdoor projects, polyurethanes (gorilla glue, etc) are also great if you are going to paint so you can cover the foam out
 
RDMuller said:
What kind of wood are you using?   Whatever it is, I would try to find quarter-sawn stock that could have less of a tendency to warp and twist.  2x2's are really prone to this

Are the panels to be locked in place somehow so they can't rack?  I tend to stay away from dominos if racking is a possibility.  Stacking 2 dominos in a joint gives added strength and is very easy to do with 2" stock.    I have used very few dowels since having a domino.  Half laps are quick to do and are very strong if glued and clamped properly.

Use Titebond 2 or 3 for outdoor projects, polyurethanes (gorilla glue, etc) are also great if you are going to paint so you can cover the foam out
Just using pine, i quoted for 2x2 but will probably change when i go merchants , might use a timber grade called CLS in Britain 63x38 but i run the risk of looking cheap as it has a rounded edge on it, the owner has emailed me that he might want the panels made 2meters long now and he asked if i could use a strap for strength but cant think of a way to do withought looking stupid [eek]
 
jmbfestool said:
The New Domino DF700

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/domino-xl-df-700/ 

Perfect lol!

Oh no you dont want round edges looks cheap like you said! Nice sharp edges much nicer! 

Explain how the strap would be used to increase the strength! Sorry if im being stupid.

JMB

No im stupid aswell it was the printer guy that had mentioned it to the owner as he thinks its would rack
 
It doesn't seem as if racking would be much of an issue here.  In the target application there aren't any loading forces in the plane of the frame to push it out of square - nothing sitting on top or leaning against the side - and the plastic panels should provide ample rigidity if they're fitted properly.
 
CDM said:
It doesn't seem as if racking would be much of an issue here.  In the target application there aren't any loading forces in the plane of the frame to push it out of square - nothing sitting on top or leaning against the side - and the plastic panels should provide ample rigidity if they're fitted properly.
Think you could be right the perspex is 6mm thick.
 
[big grin] got them done.
singers2.jpg


singers.jpg
 
Interesting project!

How did you like using the paddle style domino versus your previous pin type?

And as a sidebar question, whereas we live in different parts of the world, was the purpose of this advertising, crowd management, or what?  I personally find the differences in our member's work and local cultures fascinating.

Peter
 
Peter said:
Interesting project!

How did you like using the paddle style domino versus your previous pin type?

And as a sidebar question, whereas we live in different parts of the world, was the purpose of this advertising, crowd management, or what?  I personally find the differences in our member's work and local cultures fascinating.

Peter
its a beer garden on the main road. the owner had seen it done in a magazine, but this is a bit different than the one in the magazine as the plant pots just had
2x2 holding the banners, rather than mines is inset and a dado base to bolt threw.

The paddle type was very good and accurate and i bought the package one with guides etc which has a pin set. But i am having trouble with tight fits on conti-board
 
turned out nice [big grin]

a lot of pubs round hear have had rails/barriers fitted but not as good as yours, i assume it to stop people drinking on the street
 
speed said:
turned out nice [big grin]

a lot of pubs round hear have had rails/barriers fitted but not as good as yours, i assume it to stop people drinking on the street
Thanks [big grin],Its more to do with making it better to eat meals etc on a busy road. but it might have to do with council rules.
 
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