Serpentine Candle Holder

stvrowe

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2007
Messages
834
I made a Serpentine Votive Candle Holder from walnut and tiger maple cutoffs as a gift for a friend.   I really enjoyed doing this and thought I would share the design and the process of making it with forum members.    I had also recently acquired a reconditioned OF2200 router that I wanted to try out for the first time.   I learn something new with every project and this one was no exception.  

The design was inspired by the kidney shape of a friends’ glass top table and the gift is for the owner of the table.  The main body is constructed from a 7” x 24” piece of 6/4 walnut and the legs from 4/4 tiger maple.   I used the Bezier curve function in a CAD program to generate a pleasing curve within the constraints of the size indicated above.  I then copied and pasted the curve to generate the opposite side and a centerline on which to position the 2” diameter votive cup holes.  I have included a full size template if any forum member wishes to have it for their own personal use.   I saved it as ‘D’ paper size (22” x 34”).  Make as many as you like, all I ask is that you do not sell anything made from this pattern.

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I printed it out on bond paper (more on this later) and then used Sprayway 66 adhesive to apply it to a 7” x 24” piece of ½” mdf.  (Note – if you do not have access to a printer that will print this out full size, I have found that the print center at my local Staples will print this for about $3.)  I then cut the template at the bandsaw and sanded the curves using an edge and spindle sander.   I used a 2” forstner bit to drill the holes for the votive cups in the template.  I then used double sided carpet tape to apply the template and cutoffs to the walnut in preparation for routing the holes for the votive and pattern cutting the sides.  The cutoffs are applied to help support the router base.

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I used a Magnate Legacy pattern bit to rout the votive holes because it has a short cutting length enabling the bearing to contact the template without making excessively deep passes.  As can be seen below, the OF2200 router standard base has much too large of an opening for this operation so I used one of the optional accessory kit bases for additional support.  I milled the holes ½” deep.  This was my first use of the OF2200 router and I am quite impressed with the dust collection.  (TIP – I experienced some gouging of the paper during the routing operation that tended to resist router movement.   I scraped the paper off of the template but that just exposed the adhesive which made the problem even worse.   If I were to do this again, I would print this out on Mylar or apply drafting film over the template before use to aid in easy movement.)

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I then flipped the work piece over and milled ¾” wide x 1/8 deep dados on the bottom using the OF2200 with the edge guide.  I am very impressed at the angled handle design on the OF2200.  Even guiding on a short 7” edge, there were no problems whatsoever with the router wanting to wander.    Sanding with the ETS 150/3 sander cleaned up the fuzz on the dado edges.  The dados were added as an assembly aid to keep the feet parallel to the ends of the stand.

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While the work piece still had all straight edges, I added a 10 degree bevel to each end with the table saw to give it a lighter appearance.  Note that I removed the template offcuts used as supports prior to doing this operation but did leave the main template still attached.

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I then used the bandsaw to cut the profile using the template as a guide.  I left about 1/8” or less material proud of the template for flush trimming using the router.  I marked the direction of feed on the template to always have the cutting action going downhill to the grain for the cleanest cut.  To do this operation and not have a climb cut I used two router bits; a top bearing pattern bit and a flush trimming bottom bearing bit.  I used the OF2200 router hand held in performing this operation so used the pattern bit first following the direction of the arrows moving left to right.  I then changed to the bottom bearing flush trimming bit and flipped the work piece over to cut the remaining portions of the curve.  TIP – next time I do this, I will use the router table as I think it would be much easier.

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I then completed finish sanding using the ETS150/3 and MFT clamps along with some hand sanding of the edges.  Note the ability of the MFT clamps to secure odd shaped objects.  I also shaped support feet made from tiger maple using the bandsaw and edge/spindle sander.  

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It is assembled and now ready for finish.  I did remove the support feet and finished the individual pieces separately using five coats of a semi-gloss spray lacquer finish and added some felt pads to the bottom of the feet.

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The recipient of this gift doesn’t have it yet as she is a 3 hour drive from me but, I have sent her a picture and she loves it and gave me a warning to ensure no one else gets it.  
If you are inclined to make one, please post pictures and your techniques as I would love to see them.
 
Steve,

First,  absolutely beautiful project!

Second,  thank you to take the time to document it.  I know that added considerable time and messed around with the workflow.

Third, thank you for sharing the pattern.  Very generous of you!

Peter
 
Steve,

Sweet design! I love little projects like this.

Or maybe I just like the distraction from larger projects ?

Mike-who hasn't been diagnosed with adhd.....yet.
 
I am glad you guys enjoyed the pattern.  I made a couple more of these for wedding gifts.  I used Padauk and Maple and used the router table for template routing.  As I expected, it was much easier than using the handheld router.

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