Shared wall in cabinet - dominoes

[Hipplewm]

I searched for this, but I don't know the official names, so I may have missed something....

I want to build a cabinet 2 in fact - base cabinet - with several drawers - but I want to "Share" a wall between the cabinets - so you couldn't separate them.
I want to use dominos and this is 3/4" plywood, which means 5x30
typically for 5x30 you go 15mm deep on both sides - no issues even on 23/32 (18mm) ply
BUT - if I have dominoes on both sides I can't put 15mm on both sides....

Options as I see it:
Use 5mm dominoes -
Open the middle panel up completely - which gives roughly 9mm to each side and plunge into the stretchers, hangars and toe kicks etc 20mm

Use 4mm dominoes
plunge both sides to 10mm (20mm setting)

Both would require gluing them into the pieces before inserting into the center section, which is no big deal.

I am afraid I am missing the trees for the forest and maybe missed something, so asking before I do something dumb.

 

[squall_line]

Festool sells 8x36mm dominos to cover this use case when using the connector set (which uses 8mm mortises) in 19mm ply.  This provides a 28mm in the end of each shelf/panel with 8mm each in the divider with a small gap between them.
  (jump to 27:45 for the start of the conversation or straight to 32:30 for the discussion about the 8x36 domino)

You can do the same thing by through-mortising your 5mm as you described, and using 2 tenons.

I personally use 6 mm for 3/4" (18-19mm) sheet goods, or 8mm if I'm using the connector set.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have done this several times and I would advise moving up to the 6 x 40, plunge through and do one of the following
1) share one tenon (which leaves you 8mm or so per side
2) cut 28mm deep into your stretchers, then you have 9mm or so sticking out of your stretchers. This takes twice as many 6 x 40s though
3) custom make some longer tenons
That's the one I do. I make few sticks at a time and cut them as needed. It just takes some planing and a 1/8" round-over bit for you router table.

I have done number 1, in the past, but felt better about going deeper into the stretchers.

 

[Hipplewm]

I have done this several times and I would advise moving up to the 6 x 40, plunge through and do one of the following
1) share one tenon (which leaves you 8mm or so per side
2) cut 28mm deep into your stretchers, then you have 9mm or so sticking out of your stretchers. This takes twice as many 6 x 40s though
3) custom make some longer tenons
That's the one I do. I make few sticks at a time and cut them as needed. It just takes some planning and a 1/8" round-over bit for you router table.

I have done number 1, in the past, but felt better about going deeper into the stretchers.

OK, that makes sense - I ten to shy away from the 6's because I don't want to poke thru at 20 and there is no way i would remember to do 15/25 on every piece - I would screw something up
This is essentially what I was wanting to do with the 5x30 and not feeling confident about the small amount in the stretchers, but at 6x40 - I think I'll be OK for shop furniture

I thought about the connecter set, but it would cost more than the entire cabinet - not ideal for a one off build.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The other advantage of plunging through is that it absolutely guarantees alignment from one side to the other.  [big grin]

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

OK, that makes sense - I ten to shy away from the 6's because I don't want to poke thru at 20 and there is no way i would remember to do 15/25 on every piece - I would screw something upsnip.r a one off build.

Make it a habit to always mill the "short" mortises first -- with the smallest depth setting. This way, if you forget to change the depth setting when you mill the "longer" mortises, you could correct the depth setting and redo it.

 

[Hipplewm]

The other advantage of plunging through is that it absolutely guarantees alignment from one side to the other.  [big grin]

OR......misalignment for people like me 

 

[Hipplewm]

Snip.

OK, that makes sense - I ten to shy away from the 6's because I don't want to poke thru at 20 and there is no way i would remember to do 15/25 on every piece - I would screw something upsnip.r a one off build.

Make it a habit to always mill the "short" mortises first -- with the smallest depth setting. This way, if you forget to change the depth setting when you mill the "longer" mortises, you could correct the depth setting and redo it.

I generally lay pieces on top of each other and use the base as a reference rather than the fence - so I have to alternate between shallow and deep cuts.....

I do see your point and it would require a workflow change on my part but could be doable - I just learned the other way, so that is just what i am comfortable with.

 

[mino]

This is IMO the prime use case for Festool selling a 6mm version of this .. or making own dominoes:

https://www.festool.de/zubehoer/verbinden/zubehoer-fuer-verbinden/domino-duebel/498686---d-8x75036-bu

At least that is how it is done in the "Dowell World".

 

[Hipplewm]

This is IMO the prime use case for Festool selling a 6mm version of this .. or making own dominoes:

https://www.festool.de/zubehoer/verbinden/zubehoer-fuer-verbinden/domino-duebel/498686---d-8x75036-bu

At least that is how it is done in the "Dowell World".

That sounds like a job for Taytools - they already sell house brand dominos

 

[Sparktrician]

2) cut 28mm deep into your stretchers, then you have 9mm or so sticking out of your stretchers. This takes twice as many 6 x 40s though. 

What he said ^^^^.  [smile]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yeah, [member=61254]mino[/member] I knew those existed, but I wasn't aware of the 6mm? I thought that was something they did because of the DF700's longer plunge. I thought the smallest was 8mm.

I have done it with 6mm because the matching radius router bit is easy to get here.

 

[Hipplewm]

2) cut 28mm deep into your stretchers, then you have 9mm or so sticking out of your stretchers. This takes twice as many 6 x 40s though. 

What he said ^^^^.  [smile]

If I did this, I could just leave it on 28 and cut all the holes.....same for the 30's, just leave it on 20...

I am probably going with the single 40 first.  I'll try it on scrap, if I don't like it, I'll do one per side.

Thanks for the suggestions, help me see a few more perspectives

 

[squall_line]

Yeah, [member=61254]mino[/member] I knew those existed, but I wasn't aware of the 6mm? I thought that was something they did because of the DF700's longer plunge. I thought the smallest was 8mm.

I have done it with 6mm because the matching radius router bit is easy to get here.

I think mino meant "this is the prime use case for Festool to get around to actually making 750mm sticks in 6mm", rather than "this is why they sell 6mm in 750mm lengths"

 

[mino]

I think mino meant "this is the prime use case for Festool to get around to actually making 750mm sticks in 6mm", rather than "this is why they sell 6mm in 750mm lengths"

Thanks!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yeah, [member=61254]mino[/member] I knew those existed, but I wasn't aware of the 6mm? I thought that was something they did because of the DF700's longer plunge. I thought the smallest was 8mm.

I have done it with 6mm because the matching radius router bit is easy to get here.

I think mino meant "this is the prime use case for Festool to get around to actually making 750mm sticks in 6mm", rather than "this is why they sell 6mm in 750mm lengths"

I guess that's why I didn't know they existed..... [unsure] because they don't
That was a mis-read on my part, sorry.