Shooting versus Miter

[ChuckM]

I don't use a cambered blade, Mario.

If you do plan to put one on a LA blade, the camber needs to be much bigger (pronounced) than the one used on a high angle blade. (Are you a Tormek user? The Tormek SE77 jig is what you'll need to camber your blades.)

In addition to its use for scrubbing in a regular plane, explore the power of a cambered blade here:https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/learning_curves

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thanks for the explanations... I believe I'm not there yet  [big grin]

 

[derekcohen]

Hi Mario

I use a camber on all my bench plane blades, except when shooting on a shooting board.

The jack has the most pronounced camber to take deeper shavings and remove waste fastest. The camber can vary from 8" to 12".

The try plane is moderately cambered, as it is aimed at removing many of the furrows created by the jack.

The jointer has a little camber, as this is the enable it to steer along the edge of a board and remove the high spots.

The smoother has the least camber, but enough to remove track lines.

Adding camber to bevel down blades is simple since the primary bevel is usually low (25-30 degrees). However, adding camber to bevel up blades requires a different method since the tertiary angle may be a high 50 degrees. That would be too much steel to remove to camber. The method with BU blades is to only ever use a 25 degree primary angle, and then add the tertiary angle and camber via a secondary microbevel (using a honing guide). Do not attempt to camber a 50 degree bevel for a smoother on a grinder (Tormek or otherwise) as this is too crude a tool for the fine camber required on a smoother.

I developed the technique for BU blades: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/TheSecretToCamberinBUPlaneBlades.html

Regards from Perth

Derek