Been on a bit of a FOG/shop break for the past month or so... what did I miss? [popcorn]
Spent some time playing around with Shaper Origin and learning how to accurately work with AL. Done carefully tolerances in the range of a few thousandths of an inch over a span of ~ 8" to 12" or so are doable.
This is another take on the MFT track saw setup with the fence at the front edge of the table, this time using tall dogs rather than the TSO guide rail square. I think I'm liking this better.
Using some 1.5" by 1/4" 6061 I was able to get precise dog holes on 144mm centers with Origin. My MFT has 2 rows of holes @ 48mm centers, between the typical 96mm pattern, specifically for cutting with a dogs & guide rail. A couple Axminster fixture dogs countersunk for M6 FHSCS/T-nut secure the fence to the 80/20 thru a 20mm hole centered over the slot. There is also a short extension fence that can be used to the left or right of the main fence.
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All the dogs have a ~1mm 45-degree rim around them, similar to TSO's new Chamfer Dogs. These are UK Benchdogs variety, but they all work the same way. The chamfer works its magic when the dogs are secured tight into holes that have been chamfered also. The fence is dead on 90 degrees from the rows of dog holes.
Next was adding an adjustable guide using the front t-slot in the 80/20, & a triangular fence for narrow rips. There is a basic stop of 1/4" by 2" 6061 AL, interchangeable with the triangular fence, & either one attaches to the adjustable guide.
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Everything was cobbled together from the boneyard, part of an old 80/20 linear bearing and a triangle/square from a pre-TSO guide rail square experiment (the GRS-16 made it obsolete). Lots of patient cutting, filing, lapping of AL & listening to music.
The adjustable guide registers on the left side of the dog used to square up the guide rail, then the fence & stops were trimmed to size so when the adjustable guide is full against the dog the fence/stop are precisely zeroed out to the saw blade.
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Now the payoff. Moving the stop left, whatever gap there is between the dog and the edge of the adjustable guide is exactly the width of the saw cut. Rather than measure (where I'm lucky to get within ~.5mm repeatably) I can use gauge blocks or some other material with a known dimension as a spacer to set the cut width. Now we are talking tenths of a MM, repeatably. This test cut used a 32mm gage block, result was parallel over the length.
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Things look quiet for the balance of the year; I'm hoping to get some quality time in the shop. Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays.
RMW