Shop vac switch

[Birdhunter]

I’d like to hook up a Festool vac to the port on my Sawstop overarm blade guard/dust collection port. It currently tees off the main 4” port. Collection is adequate! But not great.

I would prefer having the Festool vac start when I start the Sawstop.

Anyone figured this out?

 

[ChuckS]

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=63013&cat=1,42401,72660

I have used that with my SawStop, dc and shop vac for the past year (or two) with great success. The auto switch is rated for 15Amp + 15Amp. When I turn on the tablesaw, the dc (1 HP or 1.5HP(?)) and the shop vac get started right away.

The SawStop plug goes to the Power Tool outlet, dc and shop vac plugs to the Vac Power outlet. The cords from the switch go to two separate circuit outlets (for a max. of 30 Amp current).

With the vac hooked to the overarm blade guard directly, you will see immediate and significant improvement in dust collection. The T-port design is grossly inadequate.

A nice bonus: When my shop vac stops running, I know the blade has come to a complete stop already (about 4 to 5 seconds earlier).

 

[Peter_C]

You can purchase the entire kit from a couple of different manufacturers.https://www.ivacswitch.com/

 

[lwoirhaye]

I think with a normal 230v magnetic switch you can pull a 110v line off the same switch.  Just open it up and look.  If that's possible, you could wire up an outlet so the shut-off timer on the Festool vac functions.  No comment on whether Sawstop would approve of that.

I've mostly seen this on 3-phase machines where you have 3 hot wires going in one end of the switch and on the other side 3 hots are starting the main motor.  Lights and switching systems are typically run on single phase 110v off the same switch.    110v is one hot pulled off that 3-phase switch.  With single phase 230v there are two hots and again the 110v line is just one of them, a neutral and a ground.

I'm not an electrician, just a guy who fusses around with old machines.

 

[Birdhunter]

I should have mentioned that my saw is the 3HP 230v model.

 

[ChuckS]

Go with the Pro tool plus for the SawStop (110 or 220V for the saw does not matter as that pro tool plus unit (which sends out a signal) is plugged into a 110V outlet; the SawStop is plugged into the existing 220V outlet as usual):https://shop.ivacswitch.com/collections/ivac-control-modules/products/ivac-pro-tool-plus

(see this video on how the tool plus works:)

Go with the 220V version for the Switch if your DC is also 220v based:https://shop.ivacswitch.com/collections/ivac-control-modules/products/ivac-pro-switch-240vac-20a

Go with the 115V Switch for the Festool extractor since it is 110V based:https://shop.ivacswitch.com/collections/ivac-control-modules/products/ivac-pro-switch-115vac-20a

So you'll need a pro tool plus, and two Pro Switches (110V and/or 220V), for a total of $200US or so.
LV uses a slightly different terminology which I find easier to understand:http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67020&cat=1,42401

If you contact the iVAC people, they will advise you of the proper wireless set-up to meet your needs.

 

[Birdhunter]

Thanks to everyone for the informative responses.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Just for the record, I have the first iVac unit Chuck mentioned.

Beware that your vac remote will not work in conjunction with that unit. The remote will work when the CT is plugged directly to a permanent  outlet only. However it's easy to setup an alternative to have the two triggered switches to work properly.