Shop walls material

[land_kel]

As I approach the time to finish the interior walls of my modest shop, I wonder what most prefer to have as the wall material?

Plywood, knotty pine t&g, cedar t&g, drywall, slat wall, peg board or what else. I'm leaning to the 1x6 t&g cedar with is about 1/2 the cost of knotty pine.

Comments?

David

 

[harry_]

If it were me, it would just be sheetrock painted white.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I prefer plywood painted white for both the walls and the ceiling. 

 

[Alan m]

i would hate to have dry wall in my shop.
it would be totally istroyed in a month.
althow it woulnt matter from 1 m up becsue iv got cabinets all around  anyway.
iv block walls

if i was putting something on the inside of a stud wall it would be ply or osb.
i like to be able to screw anywhere i like and the ply would help that.

 

[peter halle]

Mine is not done yet but I will be using slatwall.

Peter

 

[AlexThePalex]

I'd prefer plastered stone walls.

 

[Frank Pellow]

i would hate to have dry wall in my shop.
it would be totally destroyed in a month.
althow it woulnt matter from 1 m up becsue iv got cabinets all around  anyway.
iv block walls

if i was putting something on the inside of a stud wall it would be ply or osb.
i like to be able to screw anywhere i like and the ply would help that.

I would have the same problem with drywall and being able to screw anywhere into the walls is very important.

 

[Jonhilgen]

Mine is not done yet but I will be using slatwall.

Peter
[/quote
Peter,

Where will you be getting the slatwall?  It looks pricey to do an entire garage (in my case)

Jon

 

[johnnyinnb]

what everyone always forgets when this subject comes up is the building code. drywall is needed for the fire code.

 

[land_kel]

Johnny

Drywall is only required where the shop and residence adjoin. In my case, three exterior walls nd th ceiling are not on necked the he house.  The back wall does attach, but to the garage. I can fire guard that wall on the interior side, but I'll check again local code.

David

 

[land_kel]

DAMN auto correct.. Makes a mess of the sentence.

D

 

[peter halle]

Mine is not done yet but I will be using slatwall.

Peter
[/quote
Peter,

Where will you be getting the slatwall?  It looks pricey to do an entire garage (in my case)

Jon

Actually Lowe's sells white melamine slatwall in my area for only about $45 a sheet.  Much cheaper than I could find online and far cheaper than I could make myself. 

Peter

 

[fdengel]

what everyone always forgets when this subject comes up is the building code. drywall is needed for the fire code.

Why?

You'd think metal/stone/brick would be more resistant than the drywall would...

I decided with my first and  [hopefully] last project involving drywall that I hate strongly dislike working with it and never care to do so again.

 

[Brice Burrell]

what everyone always forgets when this subject comes up is the building code. drywall is needed for the fire code.

Why?

You'd think metal/stone/brick would be more resistant than the drywall would...

I decided with my first and  [hopefully] last project involving drywall that I hate strongly dislike working with it and never care to do so again.

If the wall framing is wood you'll need a fire rated material to cover to cover it.  The most common material used is 5/8" drywall.  If the wall is masonry, you're good to cover it with any material you want.

 

[jmarkflesher]

I think the fire issue is under control. Here is just a look at pegboard.[attachimg=1[attachimg=2[attachimg=3[attachimg=4[attachimg=5[attachimg=6[attachimg=7[attachimg=8[attachimg=9]]]]]]]]]                                                                      These are some options with this product.[attachimg=10[attachimg=11[attachimg=12[attachimg=13[attachimg=14[attachimg=15[attachimg=16[attachimg=17[attachimg=18]]]]]]]]]                                                    You can hang clear plastic boxes by drilling two holes. You can make special shelves to store items by drilling a solid shelf to you"re requirements. MARK

 

[Kevin D.]

I put T1-11 siding on the inside over top of the lousily finished drywall that was already there.  The advantage is I can screw anything anywhere, and when I need to reseal an existing screw/nail hole, store bought wood filler blends in so well you don't even know there was a hole there.  QUick and easy, and offeres a look that has no discernable seams between sheets as well.  Gives the room a warmth feeling as well, which is nice at times over having the white painted surface otherwise to maximize light reflection.

 

[Kev]

My workshop/garage is hardwood frame with fibro sheeting on the outside. The inside is lined with plasterboard (as we call it in Oz) with plywood sheet on top of that. Unfortunately the plywood sheet is finished in a very unattractive random vertical tongue and groove pattern that disturbs my senses.

So my advice - if the look of something over time could possibly get on your nerves - consider it up front  [embarassed]

Something else that may be of value ... I'd love to have a wall set up with a good range of tools easily accessible, but close to the ocean everything just turns to rust. Only plan to go with a tool wall if your location is friendly to exposed metal (which reminds me - I need to go and coat all of my new Bessey clamps with a film of oil).

 

[epicxt]

(which reminds me - I need to go and coat all of my new Bessey clamps with a film of oil).

Hmmm...good call, that. I need to go do the same.

 

[Old School Carpenter]

I went with drywall and plywood (differrent walls), mainly because shops tend to have a lot going on in them from shelving, cabinets, machinery, electrical, to piping for air systems, air cleaners and ductwork hanging down, etc......
The last thing i want to look at is more lines, be it osb chips, slatwall, pegboard, whatever. The shop is supposed to be a relaxing place, a place I want to be!
Plywood is nice for mounting almost anything, and when you get tired of the wood look, paint it.

That being said, my dream shop would probably have wainscot around it.
Mike

 

[srzsrz]

I'd prefer plastered stone walls.

You mean stone as in brick (bak-"steen") or concrete block? I know that's the standard wall material in The Netherlands (I'm from there originally), but in North America it's very rare. When I first saw houses being built in California, I couldn't believe my eyes. They just nail together these little matchsticks, plywood on the outside, sheetrock on the inside, and that's it? As for roofing, the typical material used is similar to what my dad used on the chicken coop back in Limburg. Everywhere except Chicago (for some reason), electricity is run as cables that simply go through the voids in the wooden walls. What? No conduit? Nope.

But it can be useful to keep in mind the other possibility: maybe the Dutch just massively overbuild their houses. When I tell people here about the double masonry walls ("spouwmuren"), plaster walls, concrete floors on each level, fully tiled bathrooms, and so on, they are just as incredulous as I was when I first saw American matchstick houses go up. Besides, in some places, there is actually a good reason not to build our way: earthquakes. Okay, earthquakes are no excuse for using painted drywall as your bathroom walls, but they're a very good reason not to have brick walls. Wood, being flexible, holds up much better. If you're in much of California and you insist on brick, you'll have to either go for brick veneer or reinforce your brick wall with rebar, basically.

Now as for this guy's shop... fire codes permitting, if I got to choose I'd prefer something I could attach reasonably heavy stuff to anywhere without worrying about finding studs. Plywood will do that. Or you could use wood boards, if you have time on your hands. Lumber Liquidators sells something they call "utility oak" that is not to different in price per square foot from construction-grade plywood, if I recall.