Short review of the carvex 420

ART at WORK

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Dec 18, 2010
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I got my Carvex 420 yesterday but havent had any time to play with it or to make a film as cutting it is just not possible at the mo.
So here are some pictures and a few comments. Most of you have seen the 400 reviews and I cant see a lot of differences.
I bought the one with  the handle as I prefer this smaller grip when Im cutting for a longer time the big barrel is tiring for me.
The first thing I noticed at the dealers was the weight difference. My old Metabo must be double the weight of the carvex. Nice weight loss.

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I don't know what the old 400 was like so I can't make any comparison. I use a jigsaw to cut out shapes seldom to cut a straight line.
I think the only change is the clamping function of the saw guide.

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It has an screw which is tightened with an allen key. In the instructions they say you have to “adjust the saw blade guide after every blade change” Would make sense, but a fiddle job every time.
So I started off with the S75/4 FSG which comes with the saw. Shiny golden look.

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There is a bit of movement front to back even with the pendulum is on zero. the blade sits about 2 mm of the guide face.

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So I tighten the screw as best I could to fit the blade.

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I tightened the blade with it pushed back against the roller, as I said a bit of a fiddle.

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My first test was cutting out a series of figures of Kokopelli from a stack of very soft ply. The big blade did an amazingly good job in such soft easily splintering wood.

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I had some difficulties with the small curvers, not surprsing. So I chanded to a small curve cutting blade. So it was back to adjusting the guide again. Good job one can take the base off or it would really suck getting at the little grub.

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I had to close the jaws almost completely for this little blade.

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I must say I like the blade eject system, a little leaver is simply pushed to rotate by a leaver way back on the body. Fingers away from the hot blades.

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Push the leaver

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I know the blade is already released its just to show the leaver.

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Another feature I liked was the clip you can stick in the on off swith so when you have it fixed in a base you can operate it from the dust collector.

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Push the leave over and insert the clip which come on a short key ring lanyard.

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Tug it and the machine stop amazingly fast. I was happily surprise by the breaking speed and the blade always stops at the top of the stroke out the way.

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Working with the small blade the Carvex really started to become a carving tool. It cut very cleanly in a stack of 25mm material. Very little break out even without the splinter guard. I will try this addition another day.
I just used the standard base, would have loved a smaller base to get round the clamp more easily.

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You can see the foot got burnt by the larger blade trying to get round the corner.
The smaller blade was fine in the curves. What annoyed me was when I wanted to back up the blade it started jumping out of the giude and I was worried it was going to snap. So this wobbling from front to back is a problem for my way of working.

 If one looks closely at the back of the blades you can see where the guide has worn away the edge of the blade. I think there must be some wear issue on the guide and in time it will need replacing.

I will try to find time to do some circles and straight cuts and play with the 45 degree foot in the near future.
The instructions state clearly not to cut circles or straight lines with the guide rail in material thicker than 20 mm.
Was this in the 400 instructions? Or are they just covering for the problems people were having with the circle cutter.

I like the low weight, the excellent dust removal, the strobe light (the blade really looks like its standing still), the blade eject, and all the different base plates. I can only compare it to a 20 year old Metabo that has done me sterling service, just made a heck of a  dusty mess.
More to come when I have some time.
 
Thanks for posting this.  I look forward to more.  The blade support / guide system is much different from the original Carvex based on what I have seen and seems to integrate functions of the Trion as well as the Carvex.

Thanks.

peter
 
Thanks Art, looks promising.  The biggest issue a have with the 400 is when trimming a couple of mm off the end of a board, the blade comes out the guide & wanders to the side.  Can you test yours on the end of a board please ?

Thanks.
 
Thats a little annoying needing to adjust the guide for every blade BUT if it increases accuracy above its competitors then I dont mind adjusting it.   I hope the alan key is stored on the carvex?!?! not in the box! please say it is so cus that would be annoying!

The old carvex has alot of movement with the pendulum system one of the things I dont like about it  as like you said the blade moves forward when you reverse the jigsaw  and it comes out of the guide system.

You say you like the blade eject system  but when you have used it more you will find you wont like it I bet.  

I dont like it because  to often the blade stops below the eject lever and you cant eject the blade.  You try and push the blade up into the carvex but the carvex  locks the blade so you have to switch the carvex on and leave it on for a bit so it calibrates its self so when you turn it off it stops with the blade up so then you can then eject the blade.

Now I dont know with the corded version if the carvex locks the movement up and down but it does do on the cordless so you cant push/pull the blade up/down manually but if it did  I can tell you the carvex will be flying through a window or into a wall

because I know I would to often unplug the carvex and get it ready to pack it away get my lead extension lead pack up then go and try and remove the blade to find I cant because its not in the correct position to eject the blade and if I then had to go and plug it in I would be very angry.

JMB
 
I have the carvex 400 and I can get a hold of my old trion 300 and when I get the 420 I shall put them against each other to see how they match up I have. Had the upgrades carried out on the 400 and it works okay so it will be interesting to see if festool have made a much needed and improved model , unless any one else on here has all three to compare, also I have to point out that the 300 trion has almost the same blade set up from what I could see on the photos , you just have to be aware of the tension you put on the blades when tightening that grub screw because it will burn the blades .
 
It looks as if you will need a new blade for each and every job?
Are the blades trashed after they get burnt out looking? [tongue]

I have been very pleased with the Bosch JS572 and its new guide rollers. The blades do eventually darken but no way near the way the older 1591 used to.
And I find the blades last through several jobs now, where the older 1591, the blade was lucky to make it through one complete job.
 
woodguy7 said:
Thanks Art, looks promising.  The biggest issue a have with the 400 is when trimming a couple of mm off the end of a board, the blade comes out the guide & wanders to the side.  Can you test yours on the end of a board please ?

Thanks.

Hallo woodguy,
I did a few tests cutting a couple of mm of the end of a 18mm Ply wood board and a 19 mm beech board.
The test was free hand with the standard base and on the rail with of course the adaptor base.

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Free Hand Soft ply

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Spot on

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Using the rail Soft ply

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Rail cut Beech

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Free hand Beech

I found the cut with the second blade they include with the saw S75/4K to be very good.
Easy cutting. Though I do have a problem with the light at the start till you have the blade up to speed and the strobe cut in its difficult to see the line.

For me Jig saws are not really for straight lines – Jigsaw as in Jigsaw puzzle. Not a lot of straight lines in those things.

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So I tested the circle cutter. Interesting design, setting it up for the first time needed a bit if thinking. I decided to test a small radius in the hard wood.  80mm radius

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The saw cut very smoothly and accurately all the way round and the cut is so smooth it only needs a small amount of sanding.
I checked for square and its spot on for my eye.

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I was surprised that the blade was cutting 3 mm in side the line I had drawn using the V on the measuring tape, So I will have to take this in to consideration when marking out or is there a way of recalibrating the middle point?

I will be busy the next week so I wont be able to play with my saw or answer any more questions or run tests. In a week or so if you still have some more ideas I might have some time.

I hope greenfever will find the time to make a movie and be able to show the old 400 v 420 in real time.
Thanks

Pip
 
jmbfestool said:
Thats a little annoying needing to adjust the guide for every blade BUT if it increases accuracy above its competitors then I dont mind adjusting it.   I hope the alan key is stored on the carvex?!?! not in the box! please say it is so cus that would be annoying!

The old carvex has alot of movement with the pendulum system one of the things I dont like about it  as like you said the blade moves forward when you reverse the jigsaw  and it comes out of the guide system.

You say you like the blade eject system  but when you have used it more you will find you wont like it I bet.  

I dont like it because  to often the blade stops below the eject lever and you cant eject the blade.  You try and push the blade up into the carvex but the carvex  locks the blade so you have to switch the carvex on and leave it on for a bit so it calibrates its self so when you turn it off it stops with the blade up so then you can then eject the blade.

Now I dont know with the corded version if the carvex locks the movement up and down but it does do on the cordless so you cant push/pull the blade up/down manually but if it did  I can tell you the carvex will be flying through a window or into a wall

because I know I would to often unplug the carvex and get it ready to pack it away get my lead extension lead pack up then go and try and remove the blade to find I cant because its not in the correct position to eject the blade and if I then had to go and plug it in I would be very angry.

JMB

Hallo JMB,
You should be a tester for all the new festool stuff. Of course the allan Key is NOT stored on the saw where it should be. Even my old Metabo had the key stored in the body.
BAD design fetool. Anyone got a quick fix for this problem?

My saw is new and so far has always stopped at the top allowing easy removal of the blade. I did manage to move the blade down and up again quite easily no brute force.
But even if the blade was at the bottom of the stroke I could use my finger or a screwdriver to turn the little leaver and out she pops.
Pip
 
hey pip  looking closer at the photos and reading further on i see that you have  wear on the rear of the blade this was a problem on the 400 i had the roller parts changed twice on mine and i am sure woodguy had the same, oh how i hope they  are not still having the same issues on the 420, i am not exactly sure if its the forward pushing on the saw perhaps to harsh or just a design floor , i use a dewalt 18v cordless a lot and having never had any blade problems ever , that said i still like the 400 it does feel better after extended use, i do use other makes Panasonic Bosch makita but like the feel of the 400 it is a little lighter than other makes but i must admit i like using that if i am doing lots of cuts all day, lets hope you get along fine with yours pip, i think rieska should look at the circle you cut as he had problems with he's carvex 400 trying to make cut outs with the attachment and as jmb put it the router is king for that, all the best with your new jigsaw and thanks for your post, green.
 
Hi PiP,

can you try by doing a handcut, so no rail, sawing 1 mm of a board, with no material on the other side of the blade?.. this is when I had MUCHO PROBLEMO with it..

the rest is looking really good though..

thnx Rick
 
After using my 400 for half a year, i had almost forgotten jigsaws could cut circles!
I know for damn sure my 400 could NOT have cut such a nice circle freehand, not even in 12mm mdf. Let alone in beech!
And the circle jig is useless with the 400, as the blade jumps out of the guide instantly.

But now it does seem that with the "new" blade guide, we are coming from an automatic toolless system that doesn't work, back to an old manual too-requiring constant adjust system on a new saw in 2012!
Even the Bosch i sold for my Carvex had a functioning automatic guide! And the mafell which is the best jigsaw around doesn't even have a guide. All these guides do is burn the blades.
 
Ok so everyone have some questions for you ART at WORK and here is mine  [smile]

I have no problems with my 400 expect one thing that I don't know is it a bug or a feature. When I put my jigsaw in Auto mode it starts slow and then speeds up, for that I know is ok but what bothers me is that after some time 10 - 15 seconds it slows down then speeds up. If you can try to cut something about 16 - 18mm tick in a wavy line for about 50cm of line an see does your jig saw slows and speeds up.
 
My magazine want me to review the 420 soon and I need to look carefully at 4 issues...

When you are about to start a cut on a line on a piece of wood is there any difficulty making the initial contact with the wood at the exact position on the pencil line?

You mentioned this; When you withdraw the blade from a blind cut do you have to switch the machine off or can it be left running as you pull the blade back through the cut that you have already made?

Can you go beyond the 20mm recommendation for circular or rail guided cuts?

Can you make freehand curved cuts in 40mm wood (as when cutting a hole for a sink in solid kitchen worktop)?

Peter
 
Hi
I have used the 420 now for about 8 hours, not a really long time and I now start to have a problem with the Strobe light.
It started off fine. I was very impressed by the blade standing still and the strong light.
Then by the last lot of cutting in 18mm birch ply the Strobe was out of sink. The blade was moving looked a bit like vibrating and the strobe was flashing when the blade holder was at the bottom of the stroke which causes a shadow over the blade.
Less visability.

Then I noticed the the blade wasn't stopping at the top anymore.
JMB mentioned this happening with his as he was having trouble getting the eject function to work " so you have to switch the carvex on and leave it on for a bit so it calibrates its self so when you turn it off it stops with the blade up so then you can then eject the blade."
How soon did this problem arise with your carvex JMB?
Has anyone else had issues with the strobe light not working. I tried pushing the blade back up to the top and starting a fresh. Only lasted a few moment before going out of sink again.

I will fiddle about with it tomorrow and see If I can get it working again. Try the turn its light on and then only strobe. Need the manual to check the sequence to do this.
Or its the send it back road I guess. As I keep saying the light was an important sales feature for me. If it f ed up after 5 years I would say ok but 5 hours is a little soon.

Pip
 
ART at WORK said:
Then I noticed the the blade wasn't stopping at the top anymore.

I had exactly the same problem with my PSC400 from the start - I think it stopped down on the second or third time I ran the motor i.e. withing 15min of opening the box.

At least on the battery model of the 400 you could push the mechanism back up by pushing the blade against the table firmly but with a steady force. Then the ejector works normally ofc.

A stupid design fault that I had hoped they had fixed on the 420  [sad]
 
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