six-point socket's tidbits of Home Improvement, small projects and other stuff.

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"Come to the dark side, we got Snap-On and Festool tools"  [scared] [eek] [big grin] [big grin]

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Then we finally got some snow... I'm so delighted... Sadly it's already almost gone...

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And some minor DIY. I finally got around to finish the trimming of the attic ladder. I used an acryl from Soudal that has some sort of granules inside. Pretty awesome stuff if you ask me, didn't expect it to be this good - both in how to work with it and the result. It's applied like silicone.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
WAIT! You don't have an electric caulking gun? I would recommend the Milwaukee M12 gun, or in whatever battery platform you have. It lays a really consistent bead... I use the heck out of mine and it is one of those tools I had kinda questioned it usability, until I started using it and now I don't want to go back to a manual gun. Especially for glues like PL400 which are hard to pump all day long. It does take different attachments for the smaller and larger tubes though.

Fancier welding helmet than I have. Mine is over a decade old, and I have gone thru more than a few of the forward glass covers.

If you haven't seen them already Sperian makes a really nice face shield that can house plasma, grinding, and flame cutting shields too. I have a couple and swear by them for face/eye protection.

Yeah I like spending other peoples money :)
 
Hi Peter,

Not yet. ;) Can't decide on a manufacturer/battery platform. It's not an imminent need, I only use my hand press once or twice a year and mostly for acrylic and silicones - and that presses fairly easy...

DeWalt, Milwaukee, Metabo, Makita and Hilti all make one (or more)

Personally I'd like the Hilti best given it's ergonomics but it's a different battery platform than I already have from them.

So I was thinking to get the Milwaukee (since I have to get a new battery platform anyway) and use it as a gateway into their 12V line. Which I see me buying more tools from than from Hilti's 22V line at the moment.

Would you recommend the 12V Milwaukee caulking gun?

Metabo and Makita both don't do it for me.

Then there is DeWalt.

But like I said, since it's really not imminent for me, I just buy other stuff all the time. lol. ;)

I will take a look at Sperian, but right now the Snap-On is more than enough since I don't weld on my own currently. I have different shields/"glasses" for it. But I will definitely look at Sperian, love learning about manufacturers. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Lol!  Very nice, happy holidays Oliver.  My wife would throw me out of the kitchen/house if Knipex “utensils” found a way into the kitchen!

Oh, the M12 caulk gun is great!  I haven’t used it with construction adhesive, but with regular acrylic caulk I can lay out consistent smooth beads that I just can’t do when I’m always squeezing the trigger.  And the rest of the 12v lineup ain’t bad either.
 
Those look yummy  [tongue]

    Some seriously tough packaging though, if you needed the Cobolts!

Seth
 
Hey Oliver,
I have the 1st gen Milwaukee 12V/14V caulk gun. It’s gotta be 12-15+ years old. I originally purchased it for laying subfloor. I’ve put a lot of tubes of PL400 through it, high recommend and I’d assume Milwaukee has made it even better in the current 12V battery platform. Certainly their battery platform has been enhanced by a factor of 4x or 5x.

Besides eliminating the hand cramps from a manual caulk gun it also lays down a real uniform bead of caulk.
 
Hi!

Thank you [member=44099]Cheese[/member] ! When the next opportunity comes up I will get the M12 caulk gun :)

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
While I don't have the M12 Milwaukee Caulking gun, I do have the 18v.  I do commercial/industrial glazing and entrances.  Gunning hundreds of feet of polyurethane caulk in the dead of winter is a hand numbing experience.  The cordless guns make caulking "almost" an enjoyable task...actually no...still a pain in the dupa, just easier.
 
Thanks [member=25351]rst[/member]

--

So today I had a rather interesting little "problem".

I had to replace a TV that sits in a cabinet, built from oak by a carpenter/joiner in the 70's. So with the new TV having significantly less of a frame and being much lower than the old one it was supposed to sit higher in the cabinet.

I still had the old shelf that divided the space back when it was used as a cabinet for a Revox tape, record player, amplifier and tuner (That's what the cabinet was originally made to measure for)

I put in the shelf, of course it was a little to high to accommodate the TV  - I needed to get it down by 6 cm - but then the shelf would sit on the hinges which doesn't work obviously.

I decided to to make a cut out for the hinges on each side of the shelf and lower it as much as needed.

Now comes the part that explains perfectly what I meant when I posted in the "Does holding a Festool make you feel better?" (http://festoolownersgroup.com/fun-games-diversions/does-holding-a-festool-make-you-feel-better/ )

six-point socket II said:
(...)

The complete "Festool experience" makes me feel better and somehow gives me more confidence to do stuff I haven't done before.

(...)

Last but definitely not least, the results I can achieve with Festool tools and the fact that I try for my results to meet the quality of the tools - which simply makes me work more accurate, but also, as already mentioned, makes me dare more and go further one step at a time.

(...)

This cabinet is of unbelievable great value to me, one of the reasons I even kept that shelf that was not needed for years. It's not about money.

Now this is a simple modification for most here and of course the professionals around us and might probably not even seem noteworthy to most, but I would have never thought I'd use my tools on this cabinet one day. But my experience with my Festool tools gave me the confidence I needed to do this.

Bracket in original position
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New holes marked
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Bracket in new position
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Making the cut outs for the hinges on the shelf. What I didn't take a picture of is my clamped down level that I used to guide the Carvex. This worked out perfect. Of course I used my trusty CTL-SYS with the Carvex.
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Here you can see the difference in cut quality. The cut out made with Carvex and the original, completely untouched cut above it.
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Finished for now.
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I'm currently thinking if I should maybe round of the edges of the cut out to match the front side of the shelf, but I'm undecided.

Tomorrow I'll use some wax/polish to get off some residue from my Pica pencil's red wax lead.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Hi!

Some pictures from yesterday.

Long (boring and up to ridiculous) story short: No matter how many CAT cables your network infrastructure has, you always need one more. ...

I started by drilling the 68mm hole for the flush box. (I decided against the 82mm hole for a junction type flush box because the cable will just pass through, and beside the cable I will just store the left over part from a nylon rope to pull another cable through the conduit.)

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Then I drilled through the wall for the conduit to pass through.

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small Festool stack (CTL-SYS and SYS-PH on SYS-CART) on the roof. I needed to widen the first couple of centimeters of my 16mm hole to 18mm.

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After I had prepared everything on the 1st floor, I went down to the basement to beginn the conduit install and pull the cable.

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To be continued. ... :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

 
Also from yesterday.

First fitting of the conduit on 1st floor, outside.
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Working my way up from here (basement).
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This is where the flush box will be. CAT cable and pull rope are now on 1st floor, inside.
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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
CAT?  I assume these are like CAT-5 or CAT-6 8 conductor network cables, right?  I wired my house for CAT-5e about 20 years ago but so much stuff is wireless now!

That Hilti looks like a beast of a drill!  Looks like the core you drilled was only about 2.5 inches thick or so.  Is than an interior wall?  Can't tell from the photos -

Really enjoy your updates and tool selection!
 
Hi Neil,

Thank you very much!

Yes, CAT-5e. The house is CAT-5e wired, but as with everything - sometimes you need just one more (direct/straight) line than you have/ can somehow connect. ;)

You're correct about the core's diameter, it's in fact 68mm.

The Hilti is awesome. I bought this on purpose because, to the best of my knowledge, this T2 - M was the last Model to feature: Hammer drilling, drilling in 1st gear, hammer drilling precision mode (reduced number of blows), drilling in 2nd gear. So it has 4 "gears" - the only thing it's understandably missing is a hammer only mode. But I have others for that...

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Hi.

Drilling multiple (combinations of) outlets/switches made easy with the Kaiser drilling template. (http://www.kaiser-elektro.de/catalo...BAF14F&act=showIO&forward=showProduct&lang=en )

Drill first pilot hole, place pin of drilling template into that hole, adjust and drill next pilot hole. (71 mm standard combinations, 91mm off-set combinations)

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Drill, drill, drill ... ;)

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Perfect & ready to plaster.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Hi Oliver,

Nice jig!
I just got myself the Stabila Electric Type 70 level. It also features neat drilling guides for outlets in the standard distances and I was missing a longer level for general stuff.

But I definitely will have a look for the Kaiser, die to the compactness. :)

Oh. And I got some wood glue, too. Since it was on clearance...

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BTW: how do you like the Bosch drill-dust-collection? Seems to cover the complete range of sizes one would drill... [emoji15]

Might be a good addition to the Festool one.
Any thoughts on comparison, besides the possible drill size?
 
Hi!

Neat stuff!

A word of advise on the Stabila Type 70 electric: It's not meant to drill through/guide the drill bit. The Kaiser drill template has hardened bushings that are meant to guide the 6mm drill bit. On the Stabila electric, the holes are far to large to be a guide and are only meant for marking with a pencil. (See the no drilling icon)

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Screenprint from stabila.com - (c) Stabila.

--

Well the Bosch Professional GDE 68 is one of those accessories you need to try to actually "believe the magic". It's simply amazing and as great in collecting dust as the Festool one. I use both side by side. The Festool 500483 drill dust collecting nozzle for anything up to 12mm and the GDE 68 for anything larger. Of course the GDE works best wenn the drill bit is large enough to hit the bristles, but spillage is minimal even if it dosen't. And the Festool, if you have it, you know how great it is, especially while working over head it's a game changer. Just as the GDE when drilling those 68mm holes... Also it's larger brother the GDE 162 is worth every penny if you plan on drilling diameters larger than 68mm.

Both have the two-chamber system, so even if the "drilling chamber" takes in additional air from a gap they will still stick to the wall.

They have limitations: Clinker for example is a no-go.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Yes, I know that the level is not meant as a drill guide. I don’t mind, since I mainly bought it as a normal level with the „added benefit“ of being able to quickly put down markings for outlets...

But the Kaiser jig looks like a handy little thing, especially for those occasions, where you do not know what needs to be done on site, or while helping people move etc...
 
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