six-point socket's tidbits of Home Improvement, small projects and other stuff.

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Hi everyone.

I'm breaking out of my self-imposed internet quarantine and will be contributing again.

In the beginning of the year I had a bigger project, renovating our house's staircase from 1st floor down to the basement. We never liked the dark color, but couldn't help but ask what we would find after stripping it. Would it be worse?

Now in December '19 we got new neighbors, they invited us to a housewarming party and they stripped/sanded that staircase. (All houses feature the same.) We really liked what we saw and decided to sand and re-finish ours as well.

So welcome to my sanding galore.

As usual I rely on my Festool DTS 400 connected to my CTL-SYS and SYS-PH. Starting with GranatNet und Brilliant 2 both 120 grit. Whenever I use GranatNet I also use the protection pad PP-STF Klett Delta /2 203347.

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Fairly quickly we realized we would be very pleased with the results.

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It went very well, as always. But, you have to consider that GranatNet excels when sanding very, very dry materials that create a lot of dust. In those areas, where the staircase was frequently touched, and thus dead skin/ skin fat "accumulated" my findings/experience from sanding down the patio's roof sub-structure covered with residue from ivy were confirmed once again: Brilliant 2 is way better in those areas, it less prone to clogging and as a result it lasts longer.

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The DTS is very versatile and great to use even in constricted spaces, but the space between single beams of that staircase was too small even for the DTS. Using just the tip isn't a great option, as you can't rotate the sanding paper on that DTS. A little test confirmed it would be a great job for the Fein Multimaster AFFM 18 QSL. So I bought more common 120 and 180 grit sanding paper from Fein - after them telling me there is no dust extraction for this model, which was a major mistake/misinformation as it was just released in January - the two people at Fein I talked to, didn't know. I'm actually still a bit worked up, thinking about it.

More on the Fein dust extraction set and corresponding story:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...-by-fein-for-afsc-18-fsc-500-afmm-18-fmm-350-(all-qsl)/msg605200/  [wink]

However the common sanding paper, that is Made in USA, by Fein is highly recommended. It's better than everything else I tried for true delta sanders. It's both long lasting and makes for a smooth surface.

Additionally I bough some more GranatNet 180 grit.

The original idea was to use the Festool "One-Step" oil and the Surfix system for finishing the staircase.

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I just have to say it, the Surfix set is typically Festool. Well made, great & multipurpose packaging, just very cool/gimmicky. I loved it!

But first, more sanding!

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Here's a comparison between the different kind of surface achieved with the DTS and Fein:

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Then there was a little challenge. When the staircase was installed, they stripped one screw. That has been sitting like forever like this, and I wanted to rectify it now that I was working on the staircase. So I used my tried and true PDC and the Centrotec HSS drill bits to drill the screw out, free hand. 

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Then I more sanding, 120 grit - right down to the basement. Then starting all over again with 180 grit on the 1st floor, all the way down to the basement again.

Who doesn't know the scene, Karate Kid (1984) "Wax on, wax off."  [big grin]

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The dust created by sanding without dust extraction is incredible. Maybe that explains why I'm still ticked off by the missinformation received from Fein. I know one should let go of stuff like this, as it is not healthy to keep letting something trivial as this tick you off time and time again, but somehow, I'm still ticked off.  [eek] [unsure] [wink]

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Then it was time to paint the ceilings. Good preparation and great masking tape make all the difference!

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Then I cleaned everything by tack cloth.

Then I wanted to finish the staircase by applying Festool "One-Step" oil with the Surfix system.

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I applied a bit to test the waters. While the Surfix-System seen as whole worked flawless, was easy and a pleasure to use, I immediately new it would be coming out too dark. Totally not what we wanted. Oil has a way of always making the grain/color stand out, but I really didn't expect it to be like that - especially since "One-Step" is supposed to be on the "milder" side if that makes sense - whatever "mild" is when speaking of mahogany. Anyway, I obviously didn't know what to expect. All I knew immediately was, that's not what we want.

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So I let it dry, to sand it off again.

While that had to happen, I replaced all the screws of the staircase. Really just one type of screw can be used for that, a oval-head countersunk wood screw as laid out in DIN 95.

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I installed all of them by hand. (Over 90 screws ...) Thanks to my exceptional PB Swiss tools (perfect fit and transmission of force) without any accidents/ marring the screws or wood. I also replaced all of the spacers.

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What remained was the question of how to finish the staircase. And sometimes it's right in front of you. We're using a liquified bee's wax for our furniture build from Belgian oak: "O'Cedar Cire Liquide" (https://www.monoprix.fr/courses/cire-liquide-meubles-et-parquets-a-la-cire-dabeille-ocedar-2823147-p ) and that worked perfectly on the staircase and gave us the desired result.

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After work some deep-fried "Soulfood" (sadly not the Belgian original, but the Germany available type) and some fantastic beer.

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##

Something easy in between. While tidying up the living room, we decided our every-day-network-player-radio-thingy should finally move into the bookshelf. So I needed a larger hole for the cables. I decided against drilling one large hole, but rather drilled two smaller, overlapping holes. So easy with the Festool Zobo drill bits. Perfect holes.

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##

Fast forward we're at last weeks Monday. It was time to varnish the sheds and raised flower bed again. Additionally I wanted to build a small shelter for garden materials and bags of green waste. Before, I had placed that stuff on the bigger sheds patio, but it was taking a heavy toll on the shed's patio.

We're all in the same boat speaking of Corona, all places that accept green waste are closed - but with the really great weather we're having, the backyard doesn't care about nor wait for Corona to be gone. The foundation by using some pavers I kept and a "one way pallet" was easily built. Additionally the bigger shed needed some new trimming on the roof.

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Now the only thing missing was a roof.

So lets grab some tools and start.

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I wanted a simple construction with as less material cost as possible.

So I bought a couple of construction grade posts, 2 oriented strand boards (the first and only time I will ever use this stuff!) and two hinges. I had a rest of tar paper sitting in one shed.

This is the basic layout/construction. Frame is held by Spax Hi.Force wafer-head screws 6x140. The backside is overlapping on purpose and held in place by Spax Wirox screws. The three posts in the back are about 9 cm shorter than those in the front.

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The roof is made from two strips of oriented strand board (tongue and groove technique) and glued with Titebond III Ultimate and additionally hold together by three bars screwed in place. The bars have been pre-drilled and countersunk with Festool's BSTA-HS-D-3,5-CE:https://www.festool.com/accessory/492523---bsta-hs-d-3,5-ce  When I screwed the middle bar in place I had it in the wrong position, because I rotated the roof in-between. No biggy, I simply shortened the middle post by one centimeter, so the bar would fit over.

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First fit in place.

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Details:

Hinges are fastened with 3x Spax Wirox 5/5,5 x 60 screws on the end grain posts. On the roof it's 3x 3,5x20.

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View from afar.

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Obviously I emptied it again for varnishing. Roof tilted and closed.

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After everything was said and done, I found my old, converted to electrical power, "Feuerhand Baby-Western" lantern, and thought it would be a great addition to the shed.

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Hope everyones enjoys the update on what I have been up to, and I'm happy to report back to the FOG.
Also hope everyone had a great Easter, as far as Corona permitted - and I'm keeping every single one of you guys in my thoughts and prayers during this demanding time. Stay safe everyone!

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Welcome back! But you were never gone in a sense, we had your past posts to enjoy.

I can see you've been busy, very busy. But the results speak for themselves. Looks great!
 
Oliver, always great to read your posts!  Stay safe and stay well, and the same wishes for your family!

Peter
 
Good god, you broke my internet with all those pics!  [tongue]  All that sanding dust nearly had me coughing 4000 miles away!  I’ve used my Fein once for sanding (before I learned of Festool), never used to again for that purpose.  Regardless, that staircase was quite the labor of love, well done!  And welcome back, stay well!
 
[member=61712]six-point socket II[/member] 

Oliver, I am so thrilled to see you back here posting again!  You have been sorely missed.

You are truly one of the "good guys" and I thank you for all your past postings and look forward to your future ones!

Welcome back!

Mike A.
 
six-point socket II said:
However the common sanding paper, that is Made in USA, by Fein is highly recommended. It's better than everything else I tried for true delta sanders. It's both long lasting and makes for a smooth surface.

Did I read this correctly? Are you saying that the Fein paper performed better than the GranatNet paper?
Or are you saying that you like it better than non-fein brands you have used on your Fein?
 
Oliver
Welcome back!
I'm glad my wife dosen't see all your great work She'd get me off of BDC in a hurry
 
Great work on the sanding and finishing.  That's a LOT of detail work.  Glad to have you posting again.  Stay safe!
 
Hi Oliver, I’m really glad you’re back doing your thing, and documenting here in great detail as always.
I’ve built a good few staircases in my time, starting from scratch, and also the later part assembled versions. By far the most fiddly thing I’ve ever done with staircases, is sanding them, I find it so tedious even with the proper tools.

So I take my hat of to you, on doing such a great job. Out of interest, how long did the sanding take?
 
Bob D. said:
Welcome back! But you were never gone in a sense, we had your past posts to enjoy.

I can see you've been busy, very busy. But the results speak for themselves. Looks great!

Thank you very much, Bob!

Peter Halle said:
Oliver, always great to read your posts!  Stay safe and stay well, and the same wishes for your family!

Peter

Thank you very much, Peter!

RKA said:
Good god, you broke my internet with all those pics!  [tongue]  All that sanding dust nearly had me coughing 4000 miles away!  I’ve used my Fein once for sanding (before I learned of Festool), never used to again for that purpose.  Regardless, that staircase was quite the labor of love, well done!  And welcome back, stay well!

Thank you very much, Raj! Luckily I had my P3 dust mask. :)

mike_aa said:
[member=61712]six-point socket II[/member] 

Oliver, I am so thrilled to see you back here posting again!  You have been sorely missed.

You are truly one of the "good guys" and I thank you for all your past postings and look forward to your future ones!

Welcome back!

Mike A.

Thank you very much, Mike! Let me tell you, I missed all the great people and this place as well!

jonnyrocket said:
six-point socket II said:
However the common sanding paper, that is Made in USA, by Fein is highly recommended. It's better than everything else I tried for true delta sanders. It's both long lasting and makes for a smooth surface.

Did I read this correctly? Are you saying that the Fein paper performed better than the GranatNet paper?
Or are you saying that you like it better than non-fein brands you have used on your Fein?

It's the latter. I have used a lot of different brand of sanding paper on the Fein, and nothing stood the test of time better than the original Fein paper. Better than GranatNet, no - definitely no. :)

JSlovic said:
Oliver
Welcome back!
I'm glad my wife dosen't see all your great work She'd get me off of BDC in a hurry

Thank you very much!

neilc said:
Great work on the sanding and finishing.  That's a LOT of detail work.  Glad to have you posting again.  Stay safe!

Thank you very much, Neil!

Jiggy Joiner said:
Hi Oliver, I’m really glad you’re back doing your thing, and documenting here in great detail as always.
I’ve built a good few staircases in my time, starting from scratch, and also the later part assembled versions. By far the most fiddly thing I’ve ever done with staircases, is sanding them, I find it so tedious even with the proper tools.

So I take my hat of to you, on doing such a great job. Out of interest, how long did the sanding take?

Thank you very much, Jiggy! It took me 3 days at about 8 hrs a day.

Kind regards, an everyone be safe!
Oliver
 
3 days is a respectable time taking into account how thorough you were, in my opinion.
After a couple of days of sanding a staircase, depending on the size and layout, I either start getting bored, or I start rushing to get it finished  [doh]
 
Oliver...you are the marathon man...you've posted more photos in just 24 hours than most of us post in 24 days.

When you start to struggle with the DTS for small areas, think DX 93...Festool quality and Festool dust control.  [big grin]

Nice job on the stairs by the way as small profiles are always a nuisance and it seems like it takes forever to complete the task.

Nice that you're again amongst the living.... [big grin]
 
Jiggy Joiner said:
3 days is a respectable time taking into account how thorough you were, in my opinion.
After a couple of days of sanding a staircase, depending on the size and layout, I either start getting bored, or I start rushing to get it finished  [doh]

Thank you! You know, when I'm fully into a project, my better half keeps me entertained, like taking charge of the kitchen, surprising me with some fresh baked waffles or pancakes, reminds me to have a little break and a coffee - so most of the time I'm not getting too bored. Obviously at some point I wanted the sanding to be finished, but the result is so worth the effort. Plus, I think Festool really makes the difference here. If I had to do this with the tools I had before my Festool stuff, it would have been a lot harder and would have had taken significantly longer.

Cheese said:
Oliver...you are the marathon man...you've posted more photos in just 24 hours than most of us post in 24 days.

When you start to struggle with the DTS for small areas, think DX 93...Festool quality and Festool dust control.  [big grin]

Nice job on the stairs by the way as small profiles are always a nuisance and it seems like it takes forever to complete the task.

Nice that you're again amongst the living.... [big grin]

Thank you very much, Cheese! But please, keep the "dentist" away ...  [scared] [eek] [big grin] [wink]

You know, I had a DX93. I think I posted about it in this thread. Got it used for a great price, fixed it up - and then it went into a Systainer and sat in the basement workshop. At some point I decided I would let go of some stuff from the basement workshop, the DX 93 was among it. I was even pretty excited, it sold in an eBay auction for more than what I paid for it all together with what I "invested" to fix it up. And now with the staircase, I almost bit myself in the a** for selling it.

Might have to find me another one. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Glad your back posting again Oliver. I really did miss your post. Really enjoyed them and was amazed at what you do and the tools you have.

Keep'em coming

 
Thank you very much!

The recycling center is re-opening coming Monday, so maybe I can continue with the other indoor-projects.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
So I posted about the Festool CE Stone drill bits and how great they perform, especially in conjunction with the PDC, before.

->https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ce-stone-best-masonry-drill-bits-in-the-world!/msg501089/#msg501089

I had to do something off the "Honey-Do-List", hang two metal/enamel plaques my better half bought.

Two nails each would easily hold them, but that looks kinda off. So the task was, drilling 6 and another 4 holes that are totally leveled/square to each other. As there mustn't be any pressure/force on the enamel. Not to mention the worry-free drilling close to the edge of high fired brick.

I kinda like the Spax T-Star heads, but I'm still thinking slotted brass screws could look better ... I ordered some, and will give it a try. But that doesn't matter here and now, it's about the always perfect results when using CE Stone drill bits with the PDC at 3800 rpm.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Nice! Always do the Honey-Do-List  [big grin]
And if you do it proudly and showing that it is you in combination with the right tool(s) that’s get it done, you’re in for more [wink] [big grin]
I
Slotted brass screws would look great, especially when a patina comes. Chromed/polished slotted would also do nice. (You could polish the heads yourself too)

I’m curious about the Spax hardware, I noticed that they had at Bauhaus, never tried them before.. they also carry a bit set wich appears to be rebranded Wera as well - I noted that as a sign of high quality - including pricing [scared]
 
Spax hardware is top notch and easily available (speaking of Germany). They have everything from universal screws to load bearing ones for wood construction/ framing work (Hi.Force and In.Force).  They most commonly use their T-Star drive, which basically is Torx, but with a pin. And yes, Wera makes the bits and bit set for them.

A great thing they introduced a couple of years back, all universal (wood) screws starting at 3.5 mm up to 5.5 mm diameter, maybe even 6mm, not sure at the moment, feature the T-Star/Torx 20 drive. So it's one bit for a whole variety of screws.

Spax is also a local manufacturer for me, + they did me a favor once - so I'm a bit biased. ;)

But really, for most without access to bulk buying from the large industrial/commercial suppliers, Spax is the way to go. Otherwise it would be Wuerth/Würth. Würth also has their own drive, "AW" -> "Assy(R)" ( Assy(R)/SIT(R)/pias(R) ) and like wise with AW20 bit you can drive a large variety of different diameter screws.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
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