Sliding dovetail detail questions

[enderw88]

After reviewing Jerry Works writeups I have become interested in trying sliding dovetail joints on some upcoming projects.  I have a few detail questions, that are probably obvious, but I have never cut these types of joints before.

1.  When cutting a stopped female dovetail, I assume you back the router out through the cut, not pull straight up?
2.  Once again on a stopped female cut the stopped end will be round.  The male part of the joint will not be round, and will not reach all the way to the end of the joint. Do you trim the male side (simplest easiest, probably most visible) or do chisel work to square out the female slot (difficult, time consuming, probably invisible)

 

[John Stevens]

I'll take a stab at the answers, even though I don't have a ton of experience with this, having only built a night stand with sliding DTs in order to see how I liked them as a construction method.  (I don't, but YMMV.)

1.  When cutting a stopped female dovetail, I assume you back the router out through the cut, not pull straight up?

You'll have the pluge mechanism locked, so backing out is at least as easy as releasing the plunge lock, IMO.  By the way, before I routed the groove with the DT bit, I routed a channel with a smaller straight bit.  Also, In one of the router books written by Hylton and Matlock (?), they recommend making the DT no deeper than 1/8"--they say it's adequately strong and makes it easier to fit.  I used a depth of 10mm, which is about 3/8".

2.  Once again on a stopped female cut the stopped end will be round.  The male part of the joint will not be round, and will not reach all the way to the end of the joint. Do you trim the male side (simplest easiest, probably most visible) or do chisel work to square out the female slot (difficult, time consuming, probably invisible)

I trimmed the male pieces, and it wasn't noticable.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

John

 

[Dave Rudy]

Would not recommend pulling any dovetail bit straight up, ever.  Try stopping the router and then backing out.

The "joint" is always concealed, so easier and faster to cut off the male end than chisel out the female, although either would work.

HTH

 

[greg mann]

You'll have the pluge mechanism locked, so backing out is at least as easy as releasing the plunge lock, IMO.  By the way, before I routed the groove with the DT bit, I routed a channel with a smaller straight bit.  Also, In one of the router books written by Hylton and Matlock (?), they recommend making the DT no deeper than 1/8"--they say it's adequately strong and makes it easier to fit.  I used a depth of 10mm, which is about 3/8".
Hope this helps.

Regards,

John

John,

I think H&M were referring to the depth of the dovetail from the face of the material, not the end. In other words 3/4 inch stock would be no less than 1/2 inch at the narrowest point, or 1/8 per side. I remember reading that recommendation and the way it was worded made me interpret their intent the same way you did, at first. I don't remember the exact circumstances but I believe it became a little more clear as I read on but I may have just pondered their words and came to the conclusion that they did not mean 1/8 long from the end. To me, that would be a silly looking joint.

 

[woodshopdemos]

My one exception is to suggest that you keep the router running to back out..just keep pressure against the router keeping it firm against the guidie rail side. Sawdust will have collected in that space and backing it out under power will clean and brunish this cut. You are making a "climb cut" at that point so keep control of the router by going smoothly, slow and pressure against the guide rail side.