This is a jig I use when cutting stock that is narrower than the track. It consists of a base and seven spacers. For an imperial version the base and one spacer are cut from 1/4 inch Baltic Birch plywood, two spacers from 1/8 inch Baltic Birch plywood, and four spacers from 1/2 inch Baltic Birch plywood. This will allow you to cut thicknesses from 1/8 inch to 2-5/8 inch.
All pieces were cut from ply that was 24 inches wide; taking two pieces from each cut, their width is 12 inches less the kerf. The exact measurement is not important.
The final depth (depth is measured from fence mounting block to track cutting edge) of the base and one 1/8 inch spacer will be about 9 inches, and the final depth of the other spacers will be about 7-1/2 inches. However, the last step in constructing this jig is to true it up with the track. I would add about a quarter inch to these dimensions, since in the truing process you will be trimming 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch off.
Cut base (1/4 inch ply): 9-1/4 inches x 12 inches less kerf.
Cut one 1/8 inch spacer: 9 inches x 12 inches less kerf.
Cut the other 1/8 inch, the ¼ inch and 1/2 inch spacers: 7-3/4 x 12 inches less kerf.
To be clear about the 1/8 inch spacers, one is used independently without the base, the smaller 1/8 inch spacer is part of the spacer stack.
A picture is worth 1000 words.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
The stock to be cut can be secured with double-sided Turner’s tape (Rockler) and a dog. In many cases dogs, to prevent the stock from sliding, are enough.
With the base and spacers stacked and squared to each other, using a drill press, drill two holes down through the whole stack. Drill the holes off-center, so that you can easily know which way the spacers should be aligned.
It is important that the stack be kept perfectly aligned while drilling. I used a 5/16 inch drill because I happen to have that dowel in my shop, but I would think any size from 1/4 to 3/8 inch would work well. Cut the dowels 1/4 inch long and glue them into each hole about 1/8 inch. Slightly round off the glued dowels so that they lock easily into adjoining spacers (I used a Dremel tool). The base only has two holes; it does not have dowels glued into it. The 1/8 inch spacer has its dowels pushed flush to the top, not leaving a recess for another spacer to be locked into it. Thus, if used, it is always on top.
The jig is mounted (in this case) to an Incra LS Standard System by a 2-1/4 x 6 x 1/2 inch piece of hardwood, with holes drilled at the appropriate height to match the Incra fence T-slot. The base is attached using two 1-1/2 inch 1/4-20 hex bolts and 7/8 inch diameter, three-star knob with 1/4-20 inserts. It is vital that the vertical hardwood be a true 90 degrees to the MFT top and flush with the edge of the base.
[attachimg=4]
The Incra clamp is mounted to the MFT using two Qwas Rail Dogs and a Festool clamp. This works well, and with the Incra fence attached, it makes it easy to be sure the Incra Positioner is square to the MFT top.
[attachimg=5][attachimg=6]
The jig may also be attached to the Festool 180 degree fence clamp.
[attachimg=7]
The intermediary piece is an Incra T-Track Plus. I have an 1/8 inch strip of plywood taped to the bottom of the T-Track Plus to line it up with the Festool 180 degree clamp. (Notice the Festool Angle Stop.)
My first jig was made several months ago and attached to an Original Incra Jig. The tape is double-sided Turner’s tape.
[attachimg=8]
The final step is to attach the jig to a fence that is squared to the MFT holes and positioned under the track. Trim off 1/8 inch or so to give the base and all the spacers a flush edge. If you have a TS 55 saw, you will need to do this with two cuts without moving the base, since the saw doesn’t plunge deep enough to cut the whole stack at once.
Taping the stock to the stack I have cut pieces 1/16 inch thick.
That’s it.
Robert
All pieces were cut from ply that was 24 inches wide; taking two pieces from each cut, their width is 12 inches less the kerf. The exact measurement is not important.
The final depth (depth is measured from fence mounting block to track cutting edge) of the base and one 1/8 inch spacer will be about 9 inches, and the final depth of the other spacers will be about 7-1/2 inches. However, the last step in constructing this jig is to true it up with the track. I would add about a quarter inch to these dimensions, since in the truing process you will be trimming 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch off.
Cut base (1/4 inch ply): 9-1/4 inches x 12 inches less kerf.
Cut one 1/8 inch spacer: 9 inches x 12 inches less kerf.
Cut the other 1/8 inch, the ¼ inch and 1/2 inch spacers: 7-3/4 x 12 inches less kerf.
To be clear about the 1/8 inch spacers, one is used independently without the base, the smaller 1/8 inch spacer is part of the spacer stack.
A picture is worth 1000 words.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
The stock to be cut can be secured with double-sided Turner’s tape (Rockler) and a dog. In many cases dogs, to prevent the stock from sliding, are enough.
With the base and spacers stacked and squared to each other, using a drill press, drill two holes down through the whole stack. Drill the holes off-center, so that you can easily know which way the spacers should be aligned.
It is important that the stack be kept perfectly aligned while drilling. I used a 5/16 inch drill because I happen to have that dowel in my shop, but I would think any size from 1/4 to 3/8 inch would work well. Cut the dowels 1/4 inch long and glue them into each hole about 1/8 inch. Slightly round off the glued dowels so that they lock easily into adjoining spacers (I used a Dremel tool). The base only has two holes; it does not have dowels glued into it. The 1/8 inch spacer has its dowels pushed flush to the top, not leaving a recess for another spacer to be locked into it. Thus, if used, it is always on top.
The jig is mounted (in this case) to an Incra LS Standard System by a 2-1/4 x 6 x 1/2 inch piece of hardwood, with holes drilled at the appropriate height to match the Incra fence T-slot. The base is attached using two 1-1/2 inch 1/4-20 hex bolts and 7/8 inch diameter, three-star knob with 1/4-20 inserts. It is vital that the vertical hardwood be a true 90 degrees to the MFT top and flush with the edge of the base.
[attachimg=4]
The Incra clamp is mounted to the MFT using two Qwas Rail Dogs and a Festool clamp. This works well, and with the Incra fence attached, it makes it easy to be sure the Incra Positioner is square to the MFT top.
[attachimg=5][attachimg=6]
The jig may also be attached to the Festool 180 degree fence clamp.
[attachimg=7]
The intermediary piece is an Incra T-Track Plus. I have an 1/8 inch strip of plywood taped to the bottom of the T-Track Plus to line it up with the Festool 180 degree clamp. (Notice the Festool Angle Stop.)
My first jig was made several months ago and attached to an Original Incra Jig. The tape is double-sided Turner’s tape.
[attachimg=8]
The final step is to attach the jig to a fence that is squared to the MFT holes and positioned under the track. Trim off 1/8 inch or so to give the base and all the spacers a flush edge. If you have a TS 55 saw, you will need to do this with two cuts without moving the base, since the saw doesn’t plunge deep enough to cut the whole stack at once.
Taping the stock to the stack I have cut pieces 1/16 inch thick.
That’s it.
Robert
