Smallest Cutting Router Bit?

3PedalMINI

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Need to cut a top of a cabinet for a tv lift I'm doing. What is the smallest router bit that I can use to cut the middle out? Thinking this is the only clean way todo this! I don't want a huge kerf

Tia!
 
Are you doing any edge banding or other edge treatment on the cut out? Something to factor in to the kerf width.
There are 1/16 end mills if your cabinet top is thin. You'll likely break some bits, but they are very inexpensive.
From the tools you have in your list jigsaw with the thinnest blade on a rail would be my choice.
 
The smallest router bit that I have used was 1/8".

The 6-1/2" Diablo circular saw blades have a kerf of approximately 0.06".  I'm not sure if this will work for both directions of the cutout.  You'll have to finish the corners of the cutout with a pull saw.
 
Just checked your list. TS-55, clean up ends with jig saw or hand saw.

Take cabinet doors off as need to mount the rail with clamps.

Tom
 
Why is saw kerf a concern? Once the cut piece is removed kerf should not matter.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Why is saw kerf a concern? Once the cut piece is removed kerf should not matter.
Tom
I think he wants to reuse cutout as a cover lid.
 
Svar said:
tjbnwi said:
Why is saw kerf a concern? Once the cut piece is removed kerf should not matter.
Tom
I think he wants to reuse cutout as a cover lid.

      I was wondering about the kerf width myself. If it is going to become a cover then maybe banding it with a contrasting strip takes care of the kerf width / cutout  (tailored to however close you want it) and also adds a decorative element.

Seth
 
Thanks Guys!

Its a restoration hardware cabinet that I'm modifying to fit a TV lift. I need to reuse the top as the lid of the mechanism. Since the TV is popping out of the "middle" and the design of the cabinet I cant hinge it. I would like it so when the lid is closed there isn't a large kerf. At first I was going to buy the vecturo todo this but I don't want to risk the blade deflecting.

I realized maybe I'm being silly and should just make a template and cut it out with my OF1400 but want a tiny spiral cutting bit to pull this off. I could do the TS55 but I haven't had much luck plunging and getting the blade to line up correctly. I have one shot at this since the paint is a weird thing.

Wondering if I should just accept the large "kerf" and go with a 1/4" spiral bit.
 
SRSemenza said:
Svar said:
tjbnwi said:
Why is saw kerf a concern? Once the cut piece is removed kerf should not matter.
Tom
I think he wants to reuse cutout as a cover lid.

      I was wondering about the kerf width myself. If it is going to become a cover then maybe banding it with a contrasting strip takes care of the kerf width / cutout  (tailored to however close you want it) and also adds a decorative element.

Seth

Didn't even think about banding the edges. hmm....

here is the cabinet that I'm modifying.
https://www.restorationhardware.com...?productId=prod2810264&categoryId=cat10180130
 
Hey Brendon
Like Tom said I would use the 55 then jig the corners. Clamp the rail and go slow it's what the 55 does best! If you haven't already cut the cabinet give me a call I'd be happy to help.
Cheers
Curt
 
How did you do it?
I would go something machine, TS55 than jigsaw etc. as suggested
I would not go for the jap handsaw.
 
If this is similar to other cabinets where the TV is hidden in the cabinet and rises vertically then you will not get satisfactory results using a jigsaw, handsaw, tracksaw nor Vecturo. Each of these has shortcomings that will affect the quality of the finished product since the edge of the cut will be visible when the TV is being viewed.

The only reasonable solution that guarantees clean lines and corners is a router, template and 1/8" bit, which will allow for a little more tolerance when fitting the top to the mechanism. 1/4" may be more than want, but I am certain the life is not 100% straight up and down.
 
waho6o9 said:
Japanese saws will give you the smallest kerf.

This one is for cutting the middle of the panel to start the kerf:
View attachment 1

Then you use this one to cut out the rest:
View attachment 2

One side of the blade is for crosscut and the other is for ripping.
HTH

Intriguing... @ waho6o9

Would you use a block of wood like a fence to hold the saws normal to the surface and aligned with the cut?
or
just eyeball it?
 
Other suggestions:

A Dremel with a spiral cutting bit set up as a router? I just noticed this Dremel plunge router base on the Lee Valley/Veritas site -
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=73720&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1

I own this one from Stewart MacDonald, though it doesn't plunge (tipping it into the work is the way I've plunged with it). I've used it with the Dremel router bits for decorative edging on small pieces where my Bosch router is simply too much to handle.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...cision_Router_Base/Precision_Router_Base.html

The other alternative might be a Roto-Zip with a spiral cutting bit.

In either case you'd need to hold the tool against some sort of edge guide for a straight line cut. The Veritas one might not have the length needed in the rods that are part of its fence. And I'm not sure how well the Dremel bits would hold up cutting a decent thickness of wood for something the length of a tv and back again.

Just a thought.

-Dom
 
I agree with JimH2. Spiral bit is the best option, because the cutout has two short sides, which only router bit can reach.
 
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