Smoothing edge after cut with panther blade for glueing

[Josh2]

Hi,

I am cutting hardwood edge banding with my TSC55 and the panther blade. My fine tooth blade is struggling with lots of burn marks on 3/4” stock, white oak. The edge clearly needs some work afterwards. What do you guys think is the best method? I sanded this time but the glue lines are not perfect. Not really going for perfection in this case because the glue line will be covered with veneer. Still interested in good solution.

Alternatively, does the standard blade produce edges on rip cuts that are ready for glueing? Or does a new fine tooth blade handle rips on 3/4” hardwood better than my modestly used blade?

Thanks!

 

[ScotF]

I use the 28 tooth blade for 90% of my cuts. No issues with hardwood and it does fine on most plywood too.

 

[Svar]

Hand plane. No other hand tool is faster, cleaner, or more precise particularly on a thin strip.

 

[Josh2]

Thanks. I only have a block plane but thought about a No 4 for a while. What is the right type for this application?

 

[semenza]

When I cut strips for banding or whatever I make them a little thicker than needed and run them through a planer for smoothing and final sizing. 

Seth

 

[Svar]

Thanks. I only have a block plane but thought about a No 4 for a while. What is the right type for this application?

I think block plane will work great.

 

[ChuckM]

If you know how to true an edge with a plane, use a jack plane or a jointer plane for long 3/4"  boards. Many plane owners don't know how to joint an edge square though.

On the table saw, I can avoid burning by making two cuts instead of one: the first cut is about 1/32" from the final width, and then the final cut to width.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi [member=72953]Josh2[/member]

If you only have a small amount of edge banding to do then by all means use a block plane but it may still not be perfectly flat. An alternative method which is a little more effort but fine for a small amount is as follows...

Take the board from which you will cut the strips and take 1 mm off the edge with your 28 tooth or even 48 tooth blade. It is important that it is less than the kerf thickness (2.5 mm). This will leave a good clean edge without burning. Then cut the strip at the thickness you need. After that clean the edge of the board by taking another 1 mm cut and so on.

After gluing the strips on you can then plane or sand the final edge.

If you feel energetic you could change back to your Panther blade for the wider rip cut.

Peter

 

[mkasdin]

Have your blade sharpened or purchase a new blade. You might try a 48 tooth blade? not sure if the wood is pinching the blade due to tension in the wood grain? I think you said it was white oak? I do like to run the veneer banding through a planer that has sharp blades, use a sled (a fixed board) so it’s pressing against something, plus my Dewalt planner bottoms out at 1/2” that’s right my planer blades are dull, nicked and need new blades. With two blades at hand both can be sharpened at the same time? When one blade gets dull, you have a backup, so you don’t need to wait to get the ONE sharp blade back...

 

[ear3]

Standard blade will produce glue ready rips.  Alternatively, you could do an initial rip with the panther and then a finishing pass of an additional mm/64th with a finer blade (obviously on the side that will be glued).  But I find that the standard blade is usually serviceable for hardwood rips up through 1 1/2, and I will only need to switch over to the panther when I'm close to maxing out cut capacity -- even then, though, only on certain woods.  I've ripped max depth numerous times with the standard blade without issue.  Suggestion earlier in the thread of cleaning the blade is, therefore, definitely a good one.

Hi,

I am cutting hardwood edge banding with my TSC55 and the panther blade. My fine tooth blade is struggling with lots of burn marks on 3/4” stock, white oak. The edge clearly needs some work afterwards. What do you guys think is the best method? I sanded this time but the glue lines are not perfect. Not really going for perfection in this case because the glue line will be covered with veneer. Still interested in good solution.

Alternatively, does the standard blade produce edges on rip cuts that are ready for glueing? Or does a new fine tooth blade handle rips on 3/4” hardwood better than my modestly used blade?

Thanks!