So anyway, the TS 55 sucks - who knew?! I'm getting a 75.

[Chinski]

Got a TS55 two weeks ago brand new but on a really great offer, and only really used it last weekend in earnest.  I was cutting 2mm veneer strips from a 45mm deep plank of pine approx 2m long (using the parallel guide extensions - which are excellent for this btw - attached to the rails).  First cut went okay, second cut took longer - and third cut the thing just jammed up half way along and I had to wait for it to cool down.  CTL dust extraction in place and I was not pushing it at all but it was clearly operating at the edge of its envelope from the first cut.

Yea, the ts 75 costs more and is heavier - but I don't intend backpacking with it, and I could really do with the extra features not to mention a motor that can cut strips from soft wood without needing to rest every few seconds...

It was perfect for 18mm ply though.

Is this just my experience or was the above to be expected?

Thanks

 

[RKA]

Use the correct blade (rip blade).

 

[Chinski]

Use the correct blade (rip blade).

Yep, you may well be right Raj - but I was still surprised that the machine actually jammed instead of getting the job done albeit slowly. 

 

[Sanderxpander]

A ripping blade is way cheaper than a TS75 and you'll have no problem at all with cuts like these.

 

[deepcreek]

I use a TS 55 to rip 6/4 Texas Mesquite (Janka Hardness 2,345 lbf or 10,430 N) without any problems.

Of course, I use the 12 tooth ripping blade.  Makes a big difference.

For what it's worth, I also have a TS 75 but only use it for thicker cuts.

 

[RKA]

Use the correct blade (rip blade).

Yep, you may well be right Raj - but I was still surprised that the machine actually jammed instead of getting the job done albeit slowly.

It didn't "jam", it sounds like the thermal protection kicked in and shut it down since you're saying it ran fine after a cool down period.  The blade and cut directly relates to the load placed on the motor.  Lots of people have commented about the thermal protection kicking in while using the 48 tooth blade (on thick stock and rip cuts).  And those same people have noted markedly better performance dropping down to the 28 (or whatever the general purpose is) or dedicated ripping blades.  It's one thing if you want a new tool or have some other purpose for the 75, but for the current job you describe, the 55 will do it.  Buy and aftermarket ripping blade off amazon and just try it.  Small investment and you might be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Sanderxpander]

If you use a non-Festool blade be careful about using it on the rails as it probably won't align with your splinter strip.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Yes I agree, sharp blades, and the correct type of blade are paramount with the performance of any tool.

Incidentally, I have three plunge saws, the  Festool TS55, the Mafell MT55CC and the Makita 601 Cordless.
Just an opinion but, my personal favourite is the Makita. It’s a lovely saw with good power and it suits me.
Nothing wrong with the other two which are both corded, the Festool is great no issues at all, the Mafell is also superb and probably the best designed of the three but, the Makita is my current favourite.

I would also suggest running your 55 with the right blade, before jumping to get the 75

 

[Kevin D.]

Got a TS55 two weeks ago brand new but on a really great offer, and only really used it last weekend in earnest.  I was cutting 2mm veneer strips from a 45mm deep plank of pine approx 2m long (using the parallel guide extensions - which are excellent for this btw - attached to the rails).  First cut went okay, second cut took longer - and third cut the thing just jammed up half way along and I had to wait for it to cool down.  CTL dust extraction in place and I was not pushing it at all but it was clearly operating at the edge of its envelope from the first cut.

Yea, the ts 75 costs more and is heavier - but I don't intend backpacking with it, and I could really do with the extra features not to mention a motor that can cut strips from soft wood without needing to rest every few seconds...

It was perfect for 18mm ply though.

Is this just my experience or was the above to be expected?

Thanks

You'll still discover that when cutting thin strips the TS75 suffers with dust collection.  What can help is also using a larger hose, but you still will get dust, just not as much.

 

[Svar]

Use the correct blade (rip blade).

At the expense of cut quality.
The very reason I got a track saw was the ability to do finish / glue ready cuts with a) compact and portable machine and b) no joiner. That's why I have TS75. If I need to use a 12 tooth blade to make it through the cut I might as well use a regular circular saw and a straight edge.

 

[Paul G]

I’m not sure the described situation means a 55 sucks, but the 75 sure is nice. I had a 55 which was replaced with a 75 when the recall happened years back and I’ve really liked it.

 

[demographic]

The number of teeth makes a huge difference to the power needed for a cut. Same thing with chainsaws and thats why some of the people using very long chainsaw bars run skiptooth chains.

For anyone who struggles with a cut and feels they need more power, just swap blade to one with less teeth.

Festool kind of brings it on themselves by having a 48 tooth blade which is pretty power hungry.

 

[RKA]

Use the correct blade (rip blade).

At the expense of cut quality.
The very reason I got a track saw was the ability to do finish / glue ready cuts with a) compact and portable machine and b) no joiner. That's why I have TS75. If I need to use a 12 tooth blade to make it through the cut I might as well use a regular circular saw and a straight edge.

Okay, he doesn't have to go to a 12 tooth, he can try the 28 tooth since it's pine.  Glue ready is achievable.  Finish ready is a debate I would rather avoid. 

The point is he has the tool and it can do the job nicely.  Reading his subject line is like listening to my neighbors condemn their cars because it didn't do well in the snow and trade them in.  If you just put the right tire on it for the conditions, you might find it actually doesn't have any problem in the snow.  And the circular saw/straight edge?  Add some rolls of masking tape and a broom/dust pan and have at it!  Not for me.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Got a Miata two weeks ago brand new but on a really great offer, and only really used it last weekend in earnest.  I was racing on a wet clay course.  First lap went okay, second lap took longer - and third lap the thing just jammed up half way along and I had to wait for a tow truck.  Mud flaps in place and I was not pushing it at all but it was clearly operating at the edge of its envelope from the first cut.

Yea, the Jeep costs more and is heavier - but I don't intend backpacking with it, and I could really do with the extra features not to mention an engine that can drive all four wheels at once...

It was perfect for pavement though.

Is this just my experience or was the above to be expected?

Thanks

 

[RKA]

Hahahaha!  [tongue]

 

[Svar]

Funny, Michael  [big grin]
While I believe in using the right tool for the job, the fact remains - TS55 has the least power of all track saws in its class (Bosch, Makita, Mafell, Triton, Dewalt, etc.).

 

[Michael Kellough]

Before getting distracted by the Miata analogy I was going to say the behavior sounds like the pitch from the pine gumming up the teeth of the blade. Once you get a little pitch on the teeth they gather more faster. And the saw doesn’t have the power to push that many sticky teeth through that much wood.

 

[ear3]

Yeah, pine pitch is a b*tch.  But I totally support the OP's decision to buy another tool  [big grin]

Before getting distracted by the Miata analogy I was going to say the behavior sounds like the pitch from the pine gumming up the teeth of the blade. Once you get a little pitch on the teeth they gather more faster. And the saw doesn’t have the power to push that many sticky teeth through that much wood.

 

[Svar]

But I totally support the OP's decision to buy another tool  [big grin]

Only if it's in addition to, not instead.

 

[jarbroen]

Once you get the 75 and get rid of the 55 you'll be looking for an excuse to buy a cordless 55...

That's what happened to me.  I started with the 55 cutting ply and it worked great.  I needed to rip 8/4 hardwood and the 55 protested.  Instead of getting the right blade I sold the 55 and bought a 75.
The 75 has cut a lot of solid hardwood for me and works great.
Then I picked up a t18 set and started thinking a cordless 55 would be great since I have the batteries now...
Thanks recon sale, then I had to buy one.

The cordless 55 is AWESOME!  I wouldn't use it for hardwoods but it kicks butt when you are cutting sheets of ply.  No need to drag around a cord or hose.  The dust bag works really well if you empty it often enough.
I used to swear at the cord and hose when cutting sheets with the corded saws.  Now it's awesome - just plunk my saw down and go.
The cordless also has a bit more grunt than the corded version.  I've noticed it flies through 3/4" BB or 'armor core' ply. 

Short answer - the 75 is great for thick stock, but beware it's not as great with dust control especially on the edge of material.
Also, you'll probably need to get another blade for the 75 if you want to cut ply.  The stock 28t blade on the 75 caused some chipout on the veneer when I tried cutting ply.