I was trying to make a miter cut (47.5 degree) in white oak about 3/4" thick and 10 feet long. I got to the last 1.5 feet and the damn saw dies. This is a critical cut, cross grain, and will be a glue joint, so I am using a 42 tooth blade. Stopping and restarting aren't exactly what you want to do with a cut like this [mad]. I had to wait a minute or so before I could continue the cut. Before then, the saw would run at speed "1" even though it was set to six, and as soon as it would contact the wood, it would stop. I managed to get through the cut, but disappointed with the way the TS55req performed. I am starting to think this saw is only appropriate for things like 3/4" plywood and MDF.
Sometimes the TS55req disappoints...
- Thread starter amt
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mastercabman
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I would use a ripping blade
For this type of cut in hard wood
For this type of cut in hard wood
paulhuse
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Is your TS55 new? I made several cuts in 2" thick cutting boards made out of laminated, side-grain (yeah, not end grain) maple and it worked fine. No issues. Nada. I wouldn't call it "butter" but it never bogged down using the standard blade. In hindsight, I was probably moving an inch per 4-5 seconds. In total I made about 16 feet of these cuts.
All that being said... I'm suggesting you need to consider getting it serviced or look for other issues.
Good luck, sir. That is certainly frustrating.
All that being said... I'm suggesting you need to consider getting it serviced or look for other issues.
Good luck, sir. That is certainly frustrating.
tjbnwi
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Your cut is at the limit of the saw. I rip a lot of QSWO and other hard woods with the 55. I've ripped 8/4 QSWO with the 48 tooth blade with no issues. After using the 55 for a while you'll figure out which blade to use.
Change to the 28 tooth blade.
This being a glue joint a little tooth from the saw blade on the cut surface is not a bad thing. It is actually a good thing. The REQ allows the splitter guard to remain in place on bevel cuts and the strip on the rail if in good shape should prevent splintering.
Tom
Change to the 28 tooth blade.
This being a glue joint a little tooth from the saw blade on the cut surface is not a bad thing. It is actually a good thing. The REQ allows the splitter guard to remain in place on bevel cuts and the strip on the rail if in good shape should prevent splintering.
Tom
I think the problem I experienced is the length of the cut and the resulting heat build up in the saw. Unfortunately my experience is that the saw cannot do continuous duty for such a long cut, with fine cut blade in hard wood as the white oak. The saw was actually cutting quite well until it stopped. I just can't seem to handle the heat the motor must be generating. I suppose a lower tooth count blade might have worked, but I was worried the cut would not be clean enough. Although I probably don't have an alternative than using the lower tooth blade.
The 48 tooth Fine blade is not designed for ripping hard wood. It is a crosscut and sheet goods blade. Though I too use it on occasion for rip tasks that demand a clean cut, I don't expect it to be a blade that is up to the full ripping task.
Seth
Seth
AlexThePalex
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The saw is just that weak.
I have the old TS55 and I get by with it because I almost never cut hardwood but only plywood, MDF and pine. But as soon as you cut in a piece of hardwood, even if it's 3/4'' (18mm) it starts to strugle and often bogs down under the load. I really don't like how Festool made this saw and it successor, the REQ, this weak.
And the load is heavier when you use a blade with a lot of teeth.
Even my CS70 table saw feels it when I cut hardwood, even though it has 2250 watts. If I cut 5 cm thick meranti it also really struggles, but it does manage it, but only "just". It never cut out on me, but I have the feeling that if I push just a little bit harder it might.
I have a 1500 watt DeWalt circular saw, DW65 with 65 mm depth of cut, and it cuts through everything I throw at it, with ease. No matter what wood I cut, how thick it is, and what blade I use. That thing is simply unstoppable.
Before I got the TS55 I had the Festool AT65, with 1500 watts and 65mm cut, and I found it much nicer than the TS55. Unfortunately it was an oldie I got very cheap and it died on me.
I have the old TS55 and I get by with it because I almost never cut hardwood but only plywood, MDF and pine. But as soon as you cut in a piece of hardwood, even if it's 3/4'' (18mm) it starts to strugle and often bogs down under the load. I really don't like how Festool made this saw and it successor, the REQ, this weak.
And the load is heavier when you use a blade with a lot of teeth.
Even my CS70 table saw feels it when I cut hardwood, even though it has 2250 watts. If I cut 5 cm thick meranti it also really struggles, but it does manage it, but only "just". It never cut out on me, but I have the feeling that if I push just a little bit harder it might.
I have a 1500 watt DeWalt circular saw, DW65 with 65 mm depth of cut, and it cuts through everything I throw at it, with ease. No matter what wood I cut, how thick it is, and what blade I use. That thing is simply unstoppable.
Before I got the TS55 I had the Festool AT65, with 1500 watts and 65mm cut, and I found it much nicer than the TS55. Unfortunately it was an oldie I got very cheap and it died on me.
Birdhunter
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I enjoy using my TS55, but a long beveled rip in hard wood is where I turn to my 3HP Sawstop table saw. Even then, the combo blade get changed to a rip blade.
Did you by any chance have an extension cord in your system? The CT is to be plugged into the wall, not an extension cord. Likewise there should be no additional extension cord between the saw and the CT. Make sure you are using the heavier gauge cord that comes with the TS55REQ (No raised bump). Do not trim out the "bump" on a lighter duty cord such as those that come with the sanders, etc. I learned all of this the hard way! [mad]
I had CT plugged directly in to the wall and actually had the ts55 also plugged directly in to a wall outlet (outlet is 20A) with the proper plug-it cord.
Just to clarify, this was a -cross- cut. The grain is perpendicular to the cut. That's why I used the 48 tooth blade. I'll try the 28 tooth blade and see how it does.
If it still struggles, next time I have a project requiring a cut like this, I'll probably just use my 3HP table saw once I get some long infeed & outfeed tables, and probably Jessem stock guides to ensure I get an accurate cut with no play between the fence and the wood.
Just to clarify, this was a -cross- cut. The grain is perpendicular to the cut. That's why I used the 48 tooth blade. I'll try the 28 tooth blade and see how it does.
If it still struggles, next time I have a project requiring a cut like this, I'll probably just use my 3HP table saw once I get some long infeed & outfeed tables, and probably Jessem stock guides to ensure I get an accurate cut with no play between the fence and the wood.
mastercabman
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I like to know that toogippy said:
waho6o9
Member
Maybe don't rip so much at once and take a couple
of passes at it. 3/8" first cut and then the
finish cut.
of passes at it. 3/8" first cut and then the
finish cut.
