Speed Choices on Sanders

[DavidCBaker]

I understand varying grits and variable suction power, but I'm not clear on when I'd use anything but "6" when sanding. I've done a little reading on it, too, but haven't quite figured it out. Are there some quick rules of thumb? Thanks.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

David, for nearly all sanding operations you'll want to stick with 5-6 on the speed settings.  This is particularly with a sander with a smaller sander or when using low grits.  Lower speed settings are well suited for polishing tasks and the like.

 

[DavidCBaker]

Thanks. That makes sense.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'd say one of the main reasons I reduce speed while sanding some materials is reduce heat buildup.  Latex paint and other finishes come to mind where heat will melt the finish and totally gum up the abrasive.  Another reason is remove less material like when scuffing a finish between coats.

 

[DavidCBaker]

Thanks, Brice. That all makes sense.

I couldn't find anything in the documentation. That documentation is stellar, though.  [tongue]

 

[tbellemare]

Another reason is remove less material like when scuffing a finish

David:

I also know people that are starting to use certain sanders for decorative metal finishes. Think, "brushed aluminum" or "brushed nickel" finishes.

Tom

 

[jvsteenb]

There's another reason to turn down the speed of your sander, though you may not need it too often:
When using "vlies" and/or intermediate pads and/or very soft pads, it's easier for the abrasive to conform to the material at low speed.
So less "eroding" of the surface, and better sanding in the low spots. This makes for effective sanding/scuffing without losing too much of the toplayer.
In brushed paintcoats, the surface irregularities caused by the application method are often about as thick or even thicker then one single layer of paint.
So on old coats of oil-based enamel that still portray good adhesion, this may well mean the difference between sanding down, reapplying a ground layer and an endcoat,
or just thorough cleaning, scuffing up and applying an endcoat. So this is "delicate" work, even when the layers itself aren't delicate.
When  using "vlies" or Scotch-Brite like material and a low speed it's entirely possible to do with a sander that could otherwise only be achieved by hand, and with a significantly better quality to boot.

I hope this "explanation" makes sense?

Regards,

Job

 

[image132]

Don't know if this helps you at all. This came from my Ro125 manual, I made this card a while ago along with some other speeds for other tools as a quick reference.

Other than that like Brice and Shane said. You only use lower speeds for either polishing or when sanding coats of paint/varnish etc. that would melt and then adhere to the sand paper which then scratches your workpiece. That is not a fun scenario :/

 

[DavidCBaker]

This is great feedback, guys. Thanks much!

 

[Eli]

[thumbs up]

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

AS Brice said, I like to go slow when I am stripping. [big grin]

 

[Alaska Ranger]

AS Brice said, I like to go slow when I am stripping. [big grin]

Ah - you're a professional then, are you? [big grin]

 

[Sparktrician]

I've used my RO125 for finish sanding drywall, and I find that setting it to "3" or "4" with 180 grit works better than anything else I've found.  The Fein Multimaster with 180 grit paper on the vented triangular pad is wonderful for getting into the inside corners.  Of course, the drywall dust clogs up the CT22 bags most wiki-wiki, so I'm planning on buying a Dust Deputy for just this purpose.  

Come to think of it, I've also used the RO125 on "3" with felt pads and Meguiar's plastic cleaner/polisher when buffing out the polycarbonate headlight lenses on my truck. 

And I'll add my vote for a good, slow strip.  [big grin]