Splinter Guard - How much should be left on the rail

[presidentsdad]

Hey all,
I've been using my TS75 for a while now, but have noticed on a few on-line videos that it appears that there is a bit of splinter guard that should be showing.  Mine is practically about a 1/32" away from the rail.  That seems awfully close.  What "should" it be?  Thanks for the help.

 

[nclemmons]

Mine is probably around 1/16" over with the standard blade on the TSC55.

Should is determined by the saw and blade.  Slightly wider kerf widths on some blades will shift the splinter guard width to be narrower. 

You can sometimes peel it back and slide over and restick the strip.  Then recut. 

 

[bertv]

Watch this:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1zGaVOn0HY/

BTW Sedge is a good guy to follow — lots of good tricks and tips re Festool stuff.

 

[RKA]

2mm.  There is no rule about how much of the sacrificial strip remains, but you can adjust the blade to back it away from the rail if you like.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For some dubious reason the TS 75 is delivered cutting about a millimeter closer to the rail than the TS 55. Go figure.

 

[rst]

Everyone of my four Festool saws (75,55, TSC, & HKC) are adjusted so that the saws cut 3mm from the aluminum edge.

 

[Gregor]

For some dubious reason the TS 75 is delivered cutting about a millimeter closer to the rail than the TS 55. Go figure.

You can adjust the TS so both cut at the same position for the splinter strip on the rail being in perfect position for both.
See the supplemental manual on how to do that.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For some dubious reason the TS 75 is delivered cutting about a millimeter closer to the rail than the TS 55. Go figure.

You can adjust the TS so both cut at the same position for the splinter strip on the rail being in perfect position for both.
See the supplemental manual on how to do that.

My point is, why don’t they set all the saws to the same distance at the factory? What could be the justification for setting the 75 saws so close to the aluminum?

 

[Vondawg]

I bought a used 75 a few years ago, it was different, and had a kick up/back issue, sent it into service and after repaired, it came back the same as my 55.

 

[presidentsdad]

Is it just the cams that do the blade to splinterguard distance adjustments or is there something else on the saw to make that adjustment?

 

[Euclid]

Is it just the cams that do the blade to splinterguard distance adjustments or is there something else on the saw to make that adjustment?

There is a page devoted to this in the (still not universally-known or widely publicised beyond the FOG?) Supplemental Manual (which can be found online). There it describes adjusting the base in relation to the saw body by loosening its mounting screws - but the procedure seems to be well documented and, if a touch fiddly, not horrendously difficult.

If I have understood this matter correctly (which is, by no stretch of the imagination, a certainty), the later TS55 model has a lesser degree of adjustment than other models (of 55 or 75), implying that a late-model 55, if owned, should be the one to which others are set to match. If I'm totally wrong here (I only have a single TS55 - and I'm assuming that the construction of the 75 is more-or-less the same?) then I've no doubt that more knowledgable users will set us straight!
https://www.festoolusa.com/service/owners-manuals#Sanders

 

[presidentsdad]

Hey all,
I had a heck of a time attempting to move the TS75 "away" from the rail to give me a better margin of cutting at the edge of the rail. I had to send my TS75 in for service (leaking grease) and had them also "reset" the factory distance that I undoubtedly screwed up.  I was hoping that when it came back it would cut a bit farther away from the edge of the FS rail.  It did not, but....I put on a new splinterguard and joined it to my other FS 1400/2-LR 32 rail (with TSO Products GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors - AMAZING) and noticed that the LR32 rail is a bit more slim than the original FS 1900 that came with my TS75.  So as it turns out, there was nothing at all wrong with my saw blade distance from the rail it was that the FS 1900 rail was about 1/16" wider than my FS 1400 rail.  All that really matters is that you have your cams set correctly and that you keep both cams on the rail as you make the initial cut in your FS guide rail splinterguard.  Now I have more confidence that my TS75 will give me accurate cuts.  Although it was never the saw, it was me.

Most folks probably already knew this, but I thought I'd share for the other newbies, like myself. 

 

[slafredo]

Is it just the cams that do the blade to splinterguard distance adjustments or is there something else on the saw to make that adjustment?

There is a page devoted to this in the (still not universally-known or widely publicised beyond the FOG?) Supplemental Manual (which can be found online). There it describes adjusting the base in relation to the saw body by loosening its mounting screws - but the procedure seems to be well documented and, if a touch fiddly, not horrendously difficult.

If I have understood this matter correctly (which is, by no stretch of the imagination, a certainty), the later TS55 model has a lesser degree of adjustment than other models (of 55 or 75), implying that a late-model 55, if owned, should be the one to which others are set to match. If I'm totally wrong here (I only have a single TS55 - and I'm assuming that the construction of the 75 is more-or-less the same?) then I've no doubt that more knowledgable users will set us straight!
https://www.festoolusa.com/service/owners-manuals#Sanders

I didn't see the supplemental guide on that page? Instead I found using this URL. The information is on page 22.
https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/...nuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf