Spraying Latex and Benjamin Moore Advance with Fuji HVLP

[tjbnwi]

I don't always check back either, on another forum I responded today to a post from 3 months ago.

I did not in any way feel slighted. Just going through my decision process.

We come from the same background.

You should look at Sherwin Williams Sherwood line, General Finish, call them they have a better line than what is on most shelfs, Target, IC&S. These are products designed to finish wood.

KA+ white can be tinted to match most colors. It is the color and finish in one. It goes on at 0.003" to 0.004". The clears are normally used to cover/protect stains or bare wood. Clears go on a little heavier.

My Fuji is designed for finer finish more than a heavy product. I can and do adopt it to either.

Drying could have been the system, product, ambient temperature, or a combination of. I know a lot complain about heat of an HVLP, never been an issue for me.

Unfortunately finishing is a moving target. There are days when I have my moments.

Tom

 

[Wood Eye]

Tom, I know this is an old thread so maybe you're not around, but if you are and/or anyone else has opinions I'd appreciate your input.  I've got a Fuji Mini Mite 4 that to date I've only used for clear finishes (mostly General Finishes Clear Poly).  Really happy with the results, but I want to use it on my current job for:

1) bare wood interior/fiberglass clad exterior windows (interior wood only)
2) FJP base and door trim
3) A few primed fir interior doors
4) Custom cabs I've yet to build, some maple ply, some baltic birch

Do you or anyone have a recommendation for primer and paint(s) for that?  All are to be the same brite white....a little flexibility there but customer wants all to match.  Was thinking BIN shellac primer and then Advance, but the recoat/cure time is kind of a productivity killer.  I've had a couple of people mention PPG Breakthrough, but that's at the other end of the spectrum of maybe drying too quickly for a guy like me who is design/build/remodel and knows enough about painting to know I'm not nearly as fast as someone who is a real painter.  ProClassic WB Alkyd maybe?  KA+?  Something else entirely?  Getting to the point where I have to make a call pretty soon and hoping to jump on somebody else's learning curve a little higher than I am now.

 

[tdwilli1]

Maybe have a look at Target Coatings EM6500. I just bought some for a bathroom vanity I'm building. It's a WB Pigmented Lacquer.

I've used quite a few of their products and have been very happy with them.

 

[tjbnwi]

Where are you located?

If you can’t get Em Aqua +.

Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood prime, Emerald for the topcoat.

Tom

 

[Wood Eye]

Thanks for the replies.  I'm in Portland Oregon.  One of my local SW carries Kem Aqua+ but only in 5s (not sure I need that much) and the guy qouted me $88/gal, which even he said was "ridiculously high" but wouldn't budge off that.  You like Emerald better than ProClassic or Breakthrough?  And the same for all of these applications, or would you recommend, say, one for the cabs and something else for trim? 

 

[tjbnwi]

Suprised they wont do a pour off for you on the KA+.

I'll never use Breakthrough again in my life.

Pro Classic is very nice, Emerald will be more durable.

Use Emerald for everything.

The cabinet below was shot with PC using the Q4 and Xg gun.

Tom

 

[Wood Eye]

Suprised they wont do a pour off for you on the KA+.

I'll never use Breakthrough again in my life.

Pro Classic is very nice, Emerald will be more durable.

Use Emerald for everything.

The cabinet below was shot with PC using the Q4 and Xg gun.

Tom

Nice.  That's my target.  Emerald it is.  Just so I'm clear, we're talking about the Urethane Trim Emerald?

 

[manuc]

We used the Emerald Trim and Cabinet paint on some cabinets and it took a week or two for it to harden. It remained tacky during that time. I do like using this paint for trim but wasn’t happy with how long it takes to harden. I got some KA+ and the primer but have yet to use it.

Has anyone else had these issues with Emerald?

 

[tjbnwi]

I normally use KA+, soiled with it's 1/2 hour set times.

The 3 times I had to use Emerald I had no issues with the coalesce. Set to recoat in about 4 hours, cured over night.

Tom

 

[Wood Eye]

Maybe have a look at Target Coatings EM6500. I just bought some for a bathroom vanity I'm building. It's a WB Pigmented Lacquer.

I've used quite a few of their products and have been very happy with them.

Thanks for the reply. The problem with Target Coatings where I am (Portland, OR) is that for the dealers here it's a back shelf item that they really don't support as far as pigmenting/color matching, or really know anything at all about.  And they're not supported by a rep, so if you want any information or something not already in a sealed can, you're pretty much on your own.

 

[Getmaverick]

Pro Classic Hybrid is my go to for repaints. You can use it for new paints as well but I Use Kem Aqua.
The hybrid is water based but sprays and lays down like oil.

 

[DynaGlide]

I've only tried spraying SW Wall and Wood and their ProClassic and most recently their Kem Aqua +. I can't comment on the Wall and Wood/ProClassic until I use it again since it was my first time spraying and I was figuring things out. The Kem Aqua+ once I learned how to apply it turned out really nice for a guy spraying outside at the mercy of insects and anything else that decided to mess with the finish.

I can get gallons of KA+ (both the surfacer and top coat) for around $40/gal and when I got mine I had a 50% coupon so I paid about $50 out the door for what I needed (gallon of each). I'll probably stick with that product as long as I can get it. If I need to tint then I'll have to go to Duralaq Lenmar since I can't get KA+ tinted near me.

 

[tdwilli1]

Did you go to the Miller Paint store on Grand Ave? I live in Tualatin and that's where I picked up the 6500. But I just wanted the white, so they didn't want to do the tinting?

 

[Wood Eye]

Did you go to the Miller Paint store on Grand Ave? I live in Tualatin and that's where I picked up the 6500. But I just wanted the white, so they didn't want to do the tinting?

I called the Grand Ave store because I thought if anyone supported it it would be that location.  The guy I spoke to there was the one that said that they've had issues trying to match that with cabs/existing finishes and he kind of steered me away from it.  Normally paint store employees are a mixed bag for info, but in this case it's their end of the process so I went with his advice.

 

[tdwilli1]

Did you go to the Miller Paint store on Grand Ave? I live in Tualatin and that's where I picked up the 6500. But I just wanted the white, so they didn't want to do the tinting?

I called the Grand Ave store because I thought if anyone supported it it would be that location.  The guy I spoke to there was the one that said that they've had issues trying to match that with cabs/existing finishes and he kind of steered me away from it.  Normally paint store employees are a mixed bag for info, but in this case it's their end of the process so I went with his advice.

Some of the newer guys don't know too much about Target Coatings. But I have talked with one older guy in particular that has pretty good knowledge. So must be like a lot of places where the newer people just steer you to what they know and don't necessarily ask around.

 

[mkasdin]

I use a Fuji HVLP for painting custom cabinetry using latex paint every day. I'll spray whatever good quality paint my customer is using for the trim in the house so we've sprayed BM, SW, Porter, etc. We thin the latex about 20% using a thinning solution that is 50% windshield washer solvent and 50% Flood Floetrol.  Windshield fluid is a combination of water and alcohol designed to decrease the rate of evaporation so the wiper can clean it off before it dries. It is ideal for use as a paint thinner. The blue dye in there is a dye, not a color solid, so it evaporates with the water and does not affect color even on bright whites. The blue dye helps you know when the paint has been stirred properly as well. We use a drill and a spiral silicone mixing paddle.

The key to getting a really smooth finish with latex is to get the paint to level itself out before it dries. A fine mist of paint that is built to a thoroughly wet coat is important.  Even more important is to have a really smooth primer coat. We sand with 220 then 330 then 400 using Abranet sanding disks and we mist the surface with distilled water as we sand. If the paint is applied to a glass smooth surface, it will flow to a glass smooth finish. If not, you'll see orange peel in dim light. We use a 1.3 tip by the way.

I think the XIM xtender is basically windshield washing fluid mixed or a derivative of antifreeze. Works well. The Dunn Edwards paint I’ve used has a specific chemistry, so I stick th distilled water and a bit of XIM.  No floetrol.