Squaring MFT/3

[webfarmer]

I had struggled for an embarrassingly long time squaring an MFT/3 setup successfully.  Took classes - (not square); read posts - (not square); watched videos - (not square); and simply gave up and used the 20mm holes and dogs.

I had purchased a very expensive, and fancy "Red" square to align the MFT and the square was advertised just for this purpose.

I finally purchased a "Blue" square - and magically, I had square cuts.  As I found out, the expensive Red "square" simply was not delivered to me  90 degrees square.

Moral of story is of course, "Never assume, always check" and you won't waste as much time and frustration as I did.  Should have known better - but the reputation of the company was that of near perfection.  Live and learn.

 

[Michael Kellough]

"Never assume, always check" is a good policy.

There is no need to be coy about the red square.
Just contact Woodpeckers and send it in to be corrected.
With those extra thick edges it will be very useful when set right.

On the other hand since it has three potentially movable parts I can see why it was a "one time tool'.
Each of the red parts can potentially move in two different axis, and simply pushing down on the stainless steel web can cause them to shift in the Z axis. So, checking isn't straightforward. When you get it back, be gentle with it.

 

[Birdhunter]

My MFT protractor has been gathering dust since day one. Never used it. With dogs, I get perfect angles every time. I use the WP framing square to check the MFT setups. I tend to use the WP MFT square on my table saw and not the MFT. Never had a bad WP square.

 

[gunnyr]

My MFT protractor has been gathering dust since day one. Never used it. With dogs, I get perfect angles every time. I use the WP framing square to check the MFT setups. I tend to use the WP MFT square on my table saw and not the MFT. Never had a bad WP square.

I struggled with my MFT table for several years.  Earlier this year I upgraded my table with [member=59331]TSO Products[/member] MFT Aligned Guide Rail Support Upgrade Kit.  My MFT is now become my go to for cross cutting.  It just seems to work better now and I am able to get good results with the 5 Cut test (can't remember exactly how good but certainly square enough).  More importantly the square cuts are repeatable day after day. 

I am not affiliated with [member=59331]TSO Products[/member] in any way, just a satisfied customer.

 

[twistsol1]

... When you get it back, be gentle with it.

I had the same red square, and it was also off a bit. I sent it back and it came back perfect. Two weeks later I dropped it and it was worse than ever.  I now use the Woodpeckers MFT Layout Square that is machined from a solid piece of phenolic and it doesn't matter how many times I drop it, it is still square. I'm just too clumsy to have nice things.

 

[Who2u]

Ouch! My MFT3 finally dropped, and I am having the same squaring problem. The protractor rail fits perfectly square with the table dog pegs, but the saw track is off by maybe 1/4 -1/2 degree. I can't believe I will have to shell out another $200 to get this fixed. So much for my plans of getting repeatable bevel-cut joints. Project delayed another week for yet more tools...

 

[peter halle]

Ouch! My MFT3 finally dropped, and I am having the same squaring problem. The protractor rail fits perfectly square with the table dog pegs, but the saw track is off by maybe 1/4 -1/2 degree. I can't believe I will have to shell out another $200 to get this fixed. So much for my plans of getting repeatable bevel-cut joints. Project delayed another week for yet more tools...

Have you adjusted the rail squareness to the protractor head including moving the feather keys in the front extrusion?  Festool does not set up the MFT at the factory to align with the dog holes and the feather keys would probably have to be adjusted.

Peter

 

[gunnyr]

It is worth noting that the 20mm holes on the MFT were only meant for work holding.  Festool never intended for them to be used for cutting. 

What's critical is that the protractor and the Guide Rail be square to each other.  Take a look at Sedge's YouTube to see how he goes about setting up his MFT.
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[Birdhunter]

Trying to keep the protractor and saw rail perfectly aligned seems unnecessary for most cuts when bench dogs do a perfect job.
Perhaps, for other than 90 and 45, the protractor makes sense. Between the MFT plus bench dogs and my SawStop table saw, I've made many hundreds of accurate cuts..... no protractor.

 

[webfarmer]

I think Peter's advice is sound, and perhaps the place to begin is setting the rail exactly where it belongs - or at least where you want it, regardless of the current position of the keys.

Next step is the adjustment on the protractor to match the position of the rail.

But after my experience, and watching the "Sedge" videos regarding MFT/3 adjustment; the important step I often missed is locking the outboard stop at the edge of the table FIRST.  Then re-check square, then tighten the protractor adjustment.

I always seemed to get deflection of the angle when tightening the clamp at the edge of table if done out of order.  That was my oversight

Ouch! My MFT3 finally dropped, and I am having the same squaring problem. The protractor rail fits perfectly square with the table dog pegs, but the saw track is off by maybe 1/4 -1/2 degree. I can't believe I will have to shell out another $200 to get this fixed. So much for my plans of getting repeatable bevel-cut joints. Project delayed another week for yet more tools...

Have you adjusted the rail squareness to the protractor head including moving the feather keys in the front extrusion?  Festool does not set up the MFT at the factory to align with the dog holes and the feather keys would probably have to be adjusted.

Peter

 

[Sparktrician]

My process for squaring starts with the MOST stable element (the MFT top) and works toward the LEAST stable element (the rail).  I first align the fence to the MFT top using a trio of dogs, tighten down the protractor and clamp the end of the fence down tight.  I then set the rail to the correct height for the material being cut.  I grab the original Woodpeckers MFT square and square the rail to the fence.  If I need to fine-tune the front feather key, I do so, being very careful to lock it down tight without shifting the feather key.  It is a process that works for me.  YMMV.

I also use Sedge's procedure with the yellow sticky notes to verify that the rail is square to the fence.  Every time I change the height of the rail, I verify squareness because it will sometimes change, just due to moving the rail up or down.