stairs and glue

[woodguy7]

William

What type of glue is that ?  I have never heard of it before.  Like i said earlier, i have been using Cascamite (extramite, resonite ect) on my stairs for the last 23 years & i have never had one tread squeak.  Just whatever works for you the best i suppose.  I am always on the lookour for anything that is better though.

Cheers, Woodguy.

 

[Rob-GB]

Woodguy Data sheet although it does not explicitly state it's a P/U glue it needs acetone for the clean up. On the up side (from William's point of view  ;D ) it can be used on frozen timber!  [eek] I wonder how a Domino responds to frozen wood. [scratch chin]  [wink]

Rob.

 

[tbellemare]

I wonder how a Domino responds to frozen wood.

The DOMINO is Hot, man...

Tom

 

[Rob-GB]

I wonder how a Domino responds to frozen wood.

The DOMINO is Hot, man...

Tom

[thumbs up]  [big grin] Couldn't agree more Tom. ;D

 

[jmbfestool]

Probably being bit thick here but I cant see how it works with frozen wood. I take it you would have to make sure their is no frozen ice on the timber other wise it would just stick to the thin layer of ice ontop of the timber.  I dont think I would trust it with frozen timber cant see it bonding aswell. Nice to know they claim it sticks to frozen  wood gives ya a bit more confidence when its cold at least you know it will work then.

JMB

 

[tbellemare]

I don't know particularly how it works but could easily be an exothermic reaction that heats the surface.

Tom

 

[tDot]

PL400 is definitely a polyurethane adhesive. It is primarily used as a subfloor adhesive and I've used it during several winters while framing. It is thinner then most poly construction adhesives, which does allow it to flow in sub-freezing temps, though keeping it warm does help.  It will bond to frozen wood, but not if there is visible ice on the surface. No fancy exothermic reaction (atleast nothing significant), my guess is that while most poly's require water to cure (no good if it's frozen), the PL400 does away with this need, hence it can be used on frozen wood.

 

[Rob-GB]

PL400 is definitely a polyurethane adhesive. It is primarily used as a subfloor adhesive and I've used it during several winters while framing. It is thinner then most poly construction adhesives, which does allow it to flow in sub-freezing temps, though keeping it warm does help.  It will bond to frozen wood, but not if there is visible ice on the surface. No fancy exothermic reaction (atleast nothing significant), my guess is that while most poly's require water to cure (no good if it's frozen), the PL400 does away with this need, hence it can be used on frozen wood.

Thanks tDot, it is always good to get some end user feedback on products we have not yet tried out. Being thinner than the usual Poly' is it a more messy medium to use?

Rob.

 

[spikfot]

Um, where to begin...
There are many types of "glue" on the market. How one uses them depends on the application, and lots of variables-
- "x" number of construction techniques utilizing "x" number of materials in "x" number of climates.
Stone house? brick house? strawbale house? COB? timberframe? stickframe?
Arctic, sub alpine, arid, coastal, mediterranean, earthhouse,
subfloor, slab, passive solar, wood-burning heat, boiler heat
Hardwoods, softwoods, heartwoods, plywoods, MDF...bla-bla-bla- the variables decide the technique. 
I was taught not to use hard-drying, brittle glues to avoid creaking steps. So far- so good. As far as that goes, I've had great luck not using glue at all connecting treads and risers to stringers (hundreds of sapwood/heartwood shims cut on a bandsaw per-job)
It is a tough world out there, I trust the old timers who "built to last". 

 

[jmbfestool]

Being thinner would be very useful  for me.  I use polyurethane laying chipboard flooring guarantees no creaks and you only need to screw or nail the first row of boards the rest the glue will just holds so I can get a lot more flooring down quicker.

Any way I have done a bit of water proof chipboard flooring has like a hard laminate layer on top which is hard wearing and water proof (just in case some one hasn't used it) So simply glueing the joints and joists you have a water proof floor so you can work underneath in the rain and the brick layers can carry on working off the floor to roof hight. Any way I have done a bit of it in the cold weather and polyurethane goes very stiff in the cold and takes ages to get the glue on the joints and joists so I keep a few tubes in the van or the cabin keep it warm and keep swapping round so its lovely and runny. Well if you say this glue is more runny well this could help me out quite abit for job like this.

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Well you asked ;D so here are a small selection.

Every time I look at them pictures it reminds me of JCB jobs.   The stairs we fitted look similar but with out the cursiveness! but also the tiles look the same and the panelling reminds me off the jobs but the main thing is how the wood is treated looks like its been white washed.
I dont know about your job but the painters on our job got it all wrong first time all they did was this white wax and they just rubbed it all on then whipped it off thats it. Well after a few hands touched n rubbed against the wood on the hand raill it was all gone just wood colour. Also around the skirting and bottom of the stairs where the cleaner used a mop to clean the tiles it took all the white off back to bear wood.  In the gym I fitted all this oak flooring and they white washed it. I took my shoes off to carry some gym equipment in and instead of my socks being black they where white lol. I take it they should of used some kinda of sealer after.  What did you do on your job??!

Oh the company got rid of the painters by the way lol

JMB

 

[Rob-GB]

I think your asking about the limed oak stair and panelling, this is often done by rubbing a brass wire brush over the oak to open up the 'pores' then a soft white wax is rubbed in and buffed off to leave traces of it behind. On that stair the liming was done with a different product then sprayed with a laquer to finish the job. I don't remember what was used, trade name wise, as we outsourced that part of the job to a specialist firm. They did a great job. [smile]
The wall panelling was made by my then coleague Kev, a very good cabinet maker, and given the same liming treatment. He did a cracking job as that room with the stair has an entrance door, a large window, a fire place and over mantel and two internal doorways to deal with. It was one heck of a setting out job that he accomplished superbly. The clients were really nice too which goes a long way to getting a good job. Also, probably why I use the rendered newel cap as my avatar, I enjoyed that project. ;D

Rob.

 

[Steve R]

Wow  some very nice stairs! Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,
Steve