Start from scratch

Thunderbay

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
5
I lost most all of my carpenter tools.(miterbox, tablesaw, bisket joiner, routers, compressors, sanders, jigsaw, non were festool)  Don't ask how.  I always admired others festools on the job sight.  I would like to get suggestions of the perfect setup for building cabinets, bookcases and mantels and hanging doors
 
My start up suggestion would be to go with a TS 55 saw and guide rail with at least a Midi dust extractor. From  there you can think sanders, domino and a cordless drill .
I have been running my cabinet making shop with these and other Festool Goodies no for quite some time and for me it the way  to go.
Others will chime in with more choices for you

By the way  [welcome] to FOG, you are gonna like it here

Sal
 
Well if you have insurance $ coming I would get everything I had ever wanted! Lol
But I do almost all my work on site, that said, domino, TS55 with 55" and 118" track, CT26, RO90,
T series drill, fogtainers [cool], MFT 3..... , then if $ was no thing, Kapex, RO150, UG Kapex stand..
And on and on. Lol
 
Thunderbay said:
I lost most all of my carpenter tools.(miterbox, tablesaw, bisket joiner, routers, compressors, sanders, jigsaw, non were festool)  Don't ask how.  I always admired others festools on the job sight.  I would like to get suggestions of the perfect setup for building cabinets, bookcases and mantels and hanging doors

Welcome to FOG. I am so sorry for the loss of your tools.

Since you did not mention having your own workshop and did mention working on sites, your current situation is similar to mine in early 2006. In previous years the pressure of my career left me no time for woodworking. When I sold my home in 1994 I also sold all the fixed equipment in the 2-car garage bay serving as my workshop. All I retained were some hand tools and a couple of electric drills. When I decided to take a leave of absence from my career in January 2006 to be followed by complete retirement in early 2007, I turned to my trusted friend Jesse Barragan who owns Eagle Tool of Los Angeles. He was the pioneer Festool dealer in my area.

At the time I had a spare room in my condo 14' x 16' so I realized I had no room for a cabinet panel saw. Jesse let me try a TS55 on a guide rail there in his demo room. He sells several brands of expensive cabinet table saws. I felt then and still feel that for cabinet case construction from sheet material what is needed is a "glue ready" cut quality. The TS55 provides that quality of cut and does not need the working room of a table saw breaking down full sheets.

I did not have a vehicle to transport a 106" (2700mm) or 118" (3000mm) rail. Always when I did have a large cabinet table saw I would start by making a clean-up rip on the long side of a sheet. Sometimes I could make all the rips right away, but more often I would need to make rips and cross-cuts in random order. To get around my guide rail transport issue, with my first TS55 I purchased 2 extra 55" rails, for a total of 3. I could use the extra rail as a straight edge when coupling the other two. This system served me very well until my cabinet making made enough I could buy a truck with a lumber rack, to also transport a 118" rail.

Cabinet making, as I do it, requires a way to dado and rabbet sheet material. Even when dado cutters were still commonly used on table saws I had done that function with routers using guide bearings for rabbets and various straight edges for dadoes and grooves. Reading the Festool catalog I learned that they had a way of guiding their OF1010 router with the rails. That 1010 watt router is more than enough to make 3/4" rabbets and grooves.

To me the LR-32 cabinet has made good sense since the late 1940s. Over the years I was never happy with any method of drilling all those shelf-holes, until I read about the Festool system using a rail with guide milled slots and a special device for an OF1010. In those days Festool sold a 42" rail with the slots, so I bought that and the LR-32 kit since I already had the OF1010.

These days Festool also sells the OF1400 which many folks use to drill the LR-32 holes and also use as a more powerful router accepting 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" shank cutters. I would recommend the OF1400 as your first Festool router. Eventually you might well want to add an OF1010 as a lighter router and the OF2200 as a powerful router. That only comes with a 1/2" collet and use of smaller collets is not recommended.

I strongly believe in the use of Festool clamps on guide rails even for sawing. Those clamps are even more vital when routing or drilling with rails. I urge you to include at least a pair of the screw clamps as well as the Quick clamps. Originally I also bought a pair of the long screw clamps so I could work on the top sheet of a stack and still reach to clamp.

From 2006 until I opened my big shop in the middle of 2010 I used my condo and space I rented in many other shops to build cabinet jobs. For my condo I did buy a 10" Hitachi miter saw and a used 10" portable contractor table saw since every cabinet includes parts made of lumber. In theory the TS55 can be used, but my experience is that the frustration saved justified the cost of the miter and small table saw.

Oh yes, with my first TS55 I bought the CT22 and I still own that. I bought the clean-up accessory kit and up-graded that to a 36mm AS hose, which I prefer on the TS55 and on Festool routers larger than the MFK 700.

These days you have a choice between the CT26 and the CT36. Originally I bought the CT22 because when nearly full it was not as heavy as the CT33. There is little difference in the cost of the CT, but the larger one saves on the cost of bags.

My first Festool sander was a Rotex 150 and I still use that same sander. Over the years I have added most Festool sanders. Each serves a purpose. The Festool sander advantage is vastly improved dust collection and increased life of the sanding material. I have always felt it was the glue-ready TS55 cuts and the Festool sanders which provided my competitive advantage over other cabinet makers.

The Domino is a marvelous system. In my business the Domino has replaced the biscuit joiner. When Festool started selling the Kapex miter saw in the USA I was waiting at midnight to take delivery of one that first day. I have bought an additional 4 Kapex because they work so well. The UG stand is wonderful for site work.

I still use a Festool Trion PS300 as my jig saw.  When the MFK 700 was introduced those became my trim routers.

Cabinet makers working for me own a lot of Festool cordless drills and love them.
 
what I use:

2 MFT3's TS 55, extra 55" guide rail. connectors to connect 2 55" guide rails together, paralell guide, essentials 2 sets of clamps, RO90 and RO 150, CT 26, Kapex, Kapex MFT3 stand.

My drill/ Impact isnt Festool. I use another manuf. jig for drilling shelf holes.

I use a porter cable router mounted in a after market router table and a kreg jig. Im going to do away with the after market Rt as I got a way to mount one inbetween the 2 MFTs

I assemble my cabs with 2 1/2 self countersinking screws.

Now if ya wanted to, you could use a domino in place of the screws.

Delta 13 " planer and a Jet 6" jointer.
 
[welcome] to the fog.
this is a tought question.
what is your budget.

ts55
3 1400mm rails lr32
parralel guides
clamps
lr32 set
ct26
tradesmans cleaning set
dust deputy
boom arm
domino
ro150
ro90
carvex
t series drill
2 mft3 s
qwas dogs
of 1010
of1400
kapex
ug stand

loads of accesories
 
ccarrolladams said:
Thunderbay said:
I lost most all of my carpenter tools.(miterbox, tablesaw, bisket joiner, routers, compressors, sanders, jigsaw, non were festool)  Don't ask how.  I always admired others festools on the job sight.  I would like to get suggestions of the perfect setup for building cabinets, bookcases and mantels and hanging doors

Welcome to FOG. I am so sorry for the loss of your tools.

Since you did not mention having your own workshop and did mention working on sites, your current situation is similar to mine in early 2006. In previous years the pressure of my career left me no time for woodworking. When I sold my home in 1994 I also sold all the fixed equipment in the 2-car garage bay serving as my workshop. All I retained were some hand tools and a couple of electric drills. When I decided to take a leave of absence from my career in January 2006 to be followed by complete retirement in early 2007, I turned to my trusted friend Jesse Barragan who owns Eagle Tool of Los Angeles. He was the pioneer Festool dealer in my area.

At the time I had a spare room in my condo 14' x 16' so I realized I had no room for a cabinet panel saw. Jesse let me try a TS55 on a guide rail there in his demo room. He sells several brands of expensive cabinet table saws. I felt then and still feel that for cabinet case construction from sheet material what is needed is a "glue ready" cut quality. The TS55 provides that quality of cut and does not need the working room of a table saw breaking down full sheets.

I did not have a vehicle to transport a 106" (2700mm) or 118" (3000mm) rail. Always when I did have a large cabinet table saw I would start by making a clean-up rip on the long side of a sheet. Sometimes I could make all the rips right away, but more often I would need to make rips and cross-cuts in random order. To get around my guide rail transport issue, with my first TS55 I purchased 2 extra 55" rails, for a total of 3. I could use the extra rail as a straight edge when coupling the other two. This system served me very well until my cabinet making made enough I could buy a truck with a lumber rack, to also transport a 118" rail.

Cabinet making, as I do it, requires a way to dado and rabbet sheet material. Even when dado cutters were still commonly used on table saws I had done that function with routers using guide bearings for rabbets and various straight edges for dadoes and grooves. Reading the Festool catalog I learned that they had a way of guiding their OF1010 router with the rails. That 1010 watt router is more than enough to make 3/4" rabbets and grooves.

To me the LR-32 cabinet has made good sense since the late 1940s. Over the years I was never happy with any method of drilling all those shelf-holes, until I read about the Festool system using a rail with guide milled slots and a special device for an OF1010. In those days Festool sold a 42" rail with the slots, so I bought that and the LR-32 kit since I already had the OF1010.

These days Festool also sells the OF1400 which many folks use to drill the LR-32 holes and also use as a more powerful router accepting 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" shank cutters. I would recommend the OF1400 as your first Festool router. Eventually you might well want to add an OF1010 as a lighter router and the OF2200 as a powerful router. That only comes with a 1/2" collet and use of smaller collets is not recommended.

I strongly believe in the use of Festool clamps on guide rails even for sawing. Those clamps are even more vital when routing or drilling with rails. I urge you to include at least a pair of the screw clamps as well as the Quick clamps. Originally I also bought a pair of the long screw clamps so I could work on the top sheet of a stack and still reach to clamp.

From 2006 until I opened my big shop in the middle of 2010 I used my condo and space I rented in many other shops to build cabinet jobs. For my condo I did buy a 10" Hitachi miter saw and a used 10" portable contractor table saw since every cabinet includes parts made of lumber. In theory the TS55 can be used, but my experience is that the frustration saved justified the cost of the miter and small table saw.

Oh yes, with my first TS55 I bought the CT22 and I still own that. I bought the clean-up accessory kit and up-graded that to a 36mm AS hose, which I prefer on the TS55 and on Festool routers larger than the MFK 700.

These days you have a choice between the CT26 and the CT36. Originally I bought the CT22 because when nearly full it was not as heavy as the CT33. There is little difference in the cost of the CT, but the larger one saves on the cost of bags.

My first Festool sander was a Rotex 150 and I still use that same sander. Over the years I have added most Festool sanders. Each serves a purpose. The Festool sander advantage is vastly improved dust collection and increased life of the sanding material. I have always felt it was the glue-ready TS55 cuts and the Festool sanders which provided my competitive advantage over other cabinet makers.

The Domino is a marvelous system. In my business the Domino has replaced the biscuit joiner. When Festool started selling the Kapex miter saw in the USA I was waiting at midnight to take delivery of one that first day. I have bought an additional 4 Kapex because they work so well. The UG stand is wonderful for site work.

I still use a Festool Trion PS300 as my jig saw.  When the MFK 700 was introduced those became my trim routers.

Cabinet makers working for me own a lot of Festool cordless drills and love them.

Ccarrolladams, remind me that if I ever move back to California to ask you for a job.  My festools would fit right in!
Jon.

Ps, TS 55 and extra rail is where you should start.  If doing new construction site work, you can out a dust bag on your TS 55 instead of lugging a vac on site everyday.

 
Jonhilgen said:
Ccarrolladams, remind me that if I ever move back to California to ask you for a job.  My festools would fit right in!
Jon.

Ps, TS 55 and extra rail is where you should start.  If doing new construction site work, you can out a dust bag on your TS 55 instead of lugging a vac on site everyday.

Jon, if you would care to send me a resume, just send me a PM and I will get back to you with my e-mail address. Currently we are looking for at least one more cabinet maker. Some experience making drawers would be helpful but what all of us share is a dedication to craftsmanship. Within my shop I furnish Festools. The fellow who specializes in making face frames and doors recently sold me his personal Kapex, so he could buy a new one which he keeps in his home shop. Any of my people are welcome to use their personal tools if they wish. They are welcome to use my bits and blades and if they use their own I will have them sharpened.

When I shared about working on site, I should have explained that this was always inside. Therefore using a CT was vital, so I considered transport of the CT22 part of the job and calculated the time to transport in into my bid. Same for the cost of the bags.

 
Lot's of great advice here.  I personally opted for the TS75 as I work a lot with solid wood and you can stack plywood together and gang cut several sheets at once.  I think the parallel guides are a must too and make repetitive rips and grooves with a router much, much easier.  In cabinet making class they recommend 3 MFT/3's and this makes a lot of sense working with sheet goods as you have plenty of support for ripping operations and you can quickly reconfigure for cross-cutting and still have room for assembly, etc...  The LR32 is great for all 32MM holes and it makes the entire process easy and repeatable.  If you opt for this, you can swap the rail that comes with your saw (if TS55) for 1.00 more and it will give you that capability - good investment.  For routers, all of them are great and you need to pick the ones that fit the work you will be doing.  As with everything Festool makes, there is a reason behind each tool and obviously there is some overlap.  I personally think the OF1010 and OF2200 is the ultimate combo that will allow you to do anythingm. The 1400 is a solid all around performer.  The MFK700 is a great trimmer and excels at laminate work, but you can also configure the OF1010 for this purpose too with the angle arm and copier attachments.  For sanders, it is tough to beat a Rotext for all around use, but a finish sander like a 150/3 or 150/5 is a good choice.  I also think an orbital sander is a must-have, especially for sanding the edges of doors, rails and stiles.  The Domino is revolutionary and replaces the Biscuit joiner for most applications and the Drills are just plain awesome and configurable for all installation and drilling work.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you buy.  This is a great forum with a lot of great folks with sound advice.

Scot
 
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