Stihl interesting

Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
cliffp said:
Had another days productive gardening with the pole pruner and the strimmer. I hacked down as much stuff with the pruner in half an hour as my wife managed to achieve in a day last year.

  Yeah the pole pruner is great (I have a gas model)! BUT be careful you can make a big mess to pick up real fast. One of the first times I used it I spent maybe an hour  cutting all around the property. When I got done I looked around and thought Oh cr..  [eek]  Took me about six hours the next day to clean it all up.  [blink]

Seth

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], I don't think you are cutting real navy stuff with the pole pruner.  You should put your Grasshopper to good use along with the pruner.  When i do a pruning job, large or small, i use my Skag to clean up the brush.  A few minutes with the mower and a few minutes with the sweep rake, and the mess has disappeared.  You would be surprised how large diameter twigs/branches can disappear in a hurry with no damage to the mower blades. 
Tinker

  Yes, I do use the Grasshopper to get rid of a lot of the twigs now.  But that first time was a lot 2" -4" limbs from about 20 big pine trees.  ::)  It is mostly smaller stuff now. I just got the hedge trimmer attachment and use that for the forsythia , willow tree and such. That debris was quickly windrowed with a rake and then ground up with the Grasshopper. I try to stay under 1" for Grasshopper "shredding".

Seth
 
[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]    You can shred the smaller stuff off of the larger branches if yo can get the heavy to be flat of the ground.  I have a bunch of slightly bent blades for my Skag.  i will put them on when i am getting into heavier branches. It does take a little preparation.

I even cut brush and briars with the mower.  As long as the stems are not over 3/4" to 1", I can do quite a large area in an hour or so. When mowing brush, I wait until blades are due for sharpening or ready for new.  I do the brush before i change the blades.  that way I don't ruin brand new blades.

I am going to talk to my equipment guru and see what he knows about battery trimmers.  He handles Husky and Josenrod.  I battery operated trimmers and chainsaws are on the horizon, I will wait til he handles. If they are not, I will look into the Stihl's.  I like the idea of not having to make a lot of noise.  I try to do that work almost as soon as daylite.  Some people think that is still nite time.  [wink]  Also, in winter, i have to keep my chainsaw close to the truck heater.  I sometimes need to cut a few branches before i can get into a driveway, or a roadway to plow.  If the saw is not warm, i cannot even pull the cord.  It's funny how much resistance there is with the new saws.  Way back when i was 38, i did not have such problems.  ::)

Tinker
 
Tinker said:
[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] 
If the saw is not warm, i cannot even pull the cord.  It's funny how much resistance there is with the new saws.  Way back when i was 38, i did not have such problems.  ::)

Tinker

In the interest of reducing the weight of the equipment, manufacturers are fitting smaller displacement engines on their tools. This reduces the weight and also increases the fuel economy (probably does something for the emissions they have to achieve too). However, some of these small engines don't quite have the power that's needed, so the manufacturers increase the compression ratio of the engine, which can significantly increase the HP if done correctly. The down side is that anyone that is 38 or older, will have a hard time trying to pull start the engine. Stihl is noted for this...I have a Stihl TS 400 concrete saw that is notorious for this behavior.

Way back when I was 38, I had a BSA 441 Victor motorcycle that incorporated a compression release. You'd pull in the compression release and slowly move the kick starter so that the engine was slightly past TDC (top dead center) release the compression release and give it a good hard kick. It would usually start on 1 kick if done properly. If not done correctly it would kick back and bend your knee/leg into a position that would make you assume your leg was broken, or it would literally send you over the tank and onto the ground. Hmmm...that was in 1966...guess in some areas we haven't progressed much.
 
Cheese said:
Tinker said:
[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] 
If the saw is not warm, i cannot even pull the cord.  It's funny how much resistance there is with the new saws.  Way back when i was 38, i did not have such problems.  ::)

Tinker

In the interest of reducing the weight of the equipment, manufacturers are fitting smaller displacement engines on their tools. This reduces the weight and also increases the fuel economy (probably does something for the emissions they have to achieve too). However, some of these small engines don't quite have the power that's needed, so the manufacturers increase the compression ratio of the engine, which can significantly increase the HP if done correctly. The down side is that anyone that is 38 or older, will have a hard time trying to pull start the engine. Stihl is noted for this...I have a Stihl TS 400 concrete saw that is notorious for this behavior.

Way back when I was 38, I had a BSA 441 Victor motorcycle that incorporated a compression release. You'd pull in the compression release and slowly move the kick starter so that the engine was slightly past TDC (top dead center) release the compression release and give it a good hard kick. It would usually start on 1 kick if done properly. If not done correctly it would kick back and bend your knee/leg into a position that would make you assume your leg was broken, or it would literally send you over the tank and onto the ground. Hmmm...that was in 1966...guess in some areas we haven't progressed much.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I first learned to operate various pieces of equipment back in the early and mid '40's  1940's that is.  i was living on my great uncle's farm.  when i first arrived, we had all horse drawn machinery.  All i had to do was wait for an adult to harness and "hitch" the team and then i could "drive" for some operations.  Along about 1940, or 41, we got a Farmall F-12 tractor with the iron lug wheels.  I guess i was about 13, maybe only 12, when i was first allowed to drive that monster. Actually, in that time, the F-12 was the smallest of the line; but to shift, i had to slide down so I was sitting on top of the transmission, hang onto the steering wheel with my left hand stretched far above my head and using my right hand at about my chin to operate the gearshift lever. I was stretched out almost flat on my back as I would be pushing for all i was worth on the clutch. With those old "box" gears, I had to bring the tractor to a dead stop before shifting.  It could have been somewhat dangerous for me hanging on to the steering wheel.  The front wheels were tricycle type with iron rib around the iron wheel.  The slightest bump could send the steering wheel into a spin that could break my skinny arms.  I learned early on that one never wraps his hand around the steering wheel with thumb inside the arc of the wheel.  When hitting a bump, as the wheel would spin and your thumb locked against a spoke could break thumb and wrist.  I still, to this day, even with power steering, find myself hanging on to steering wheels with my thumb on top of the wheel, never inside where the spoke can whack me if i hit a bump.  Of course, that never happens with today's vehicles.  When my kids first learned to drive, some vehicles, including my trucks, did not have power steering.  even tho the improvements were such that kick back was long a thing of the past, i taught both of them to never wrap your thump under the rim.  They never learned, and probably will go to their graves thinking, "My Old Man was a total nut."

By the time i was allowed to crank that old F-12, I was totally into the habit of not locking my thumbs around a steering wheel.  I was instructed as a very strict rule that it was even more important when starting that tractor.  you see, the self starter was actually a hand crank that was inserted directly into the front of the engine driveshaft. If the engine fired early, the crank handle would kick back with the potential to break, not only a thumb and wrist, but an elbow and possibly dislocate a shoulder.  It was also very important to be sure the tractor was out of gear when hand cranking.  I knew of one person in the local area who was buried at a very young age when he pulled up on the crank, (incidentally, you never push down on that crank.  A short pull/snap up with never going all the way to top of the spin was as important as not wrapping one's thumb), the huge tractor jumped ahead.  He tried to get to the shift, but was flattened.

Anyhow, your, @ Cheese, reply brought back some great (and not so great) memories of "the Good Ol' Days"  Any body who says "they just don't make them like they useter" just ain't been around the "useter"

Tinker
 
[member=550]Tinker[/member]
Good story, if someone nowadays saw a young Tinker driving a tractor as you describe, they'd have the local authorities hauling your great uncle to the slammer for child endangerment. [jawdrop]

Interesting though that in both cases whether starting the Farmall or the Beezer, a short quick movement was needed to get the engine turned over and after that the limb used (arm or leg) had to be removed immediately from the area or serious damage could be the outcome.

BTW I'm a fan of all old tractors, been thinking about restoring a Ford 8N for the last 15 years or so.
 
@ Cheese
I taught my son the same way.  I did post a pic somewhere on the FOG showing him at 5yr old operating my backhoe mounted on my skid steer.  He was so small, he had to rest his feet on the valve bank.  He went thru many hours of his dad hanging on to him before he was allowed to operate alone.  Son taught grandson the same way. But somebody did blow the whistle on him.  I was taught, my son was taught and my grandson was taught how to properly operate with safety in mind.  all three of us were taught and not allowed to operate until we showed respect for the machines, and of more importance, for our own and others safety.  I had the good fortune to have grown up (for 6 formative years) on a small dairy farm.  You live with thoughts of safety.  you end up expanding your horizons very quickly.  If more kids today had such advantages, there would be far less drugs problems and far less delinquency.  times were tough financially in those days; but the experiences generated responsibilities.  Today, such experiences generate whistle blowers. [sad]
Tinker
 
There are always people willing to lend their sage advice on child rearing, whether in your area or with respect to European ways.
 
[member=550]Tinker[/member]
You're discussion is something that transcends the internet, I have so much to say and yet I'm speechless...political correctness, a pox on society. I may be a product of my generation but that's ok...I think I have an easier time living within my skin than some from other generations. Soul searching is the correct terminology and I perform it every day as would anyone who has a conscience.

Enough...back to the Farmall and the Beezer...and happier times.
 
As I was driving along with my Kabota Tractor/Loader yesterday, I came around a corner and there was a man trimming a high hedge with a Stihl pole trimmer.  If it had not been for my reading of this thread, i would not have given it a second thought.  The trimmer was making absolutely no noise.  a big pile of clippings was showing on the ground all around the hedge and I could see the blade was quickly adding more clippings as it was being drawn across the top of the hedge.  BUT>>> no noise.  It was a narrow road and a tight corner, so I could not stop, but I now know cordless electric trimmers are around.  I will be on the lookout from now on.  I am leaving for work a little early this morning and will be at my Guru's shop as he opens.  I will check with him if he knows about battery op tools on the Husky horizon.  Or Jonsored.
Tinker
 
I purchased the Stihl RMA 510 V battery powered lawnmower recently. It was ordered July 2022 and finally arrived in March 2023. I picked it up the last week of April and gave it a spin...impressed...waaaay impressed.

Hold in a button and squeeze a lever & it starts, squeeze another lever and the rear drive wheels engage and you're off. It couldn't be easier to use. It also has a continuously variable lever to adjust the speed of the mower from .6 mph to 2.8 mph.

I've always had either Lawnboy or Toro lawnmowers and never had a complaint. However, after using the Stihl 3 times, I'd never go back to a gas mower.

Really easy to push if you want to because all 4 wheels rotate on a pair of ball bearings. Tons of power and it cuts the grass faster and better than the old gas powered mowers. The lawn now looks more manicured.

The entire lawn is cut on a single charge of the AP 500 S battery and the battery is charged within 45 minutes on the AL 500 charger. The AL 500 charger is like an Air Stream charger in that it uses an internal fan to cool down the battery and shorten the charging time.
The AP 500 S is a 36 volt,  9.4 Ah battery which gives 337 Wh. That's enough juice to run a Stihl MSA 300 chain saw continuously for about 30 minutes. The MSA 300 uses a .325" pitch chain, the same size chain as the Wood Boss & Yard Boss saws.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/lawn-mowers/push-mowers/rma510v/

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SRSemenza said:
Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
cliffp said:
Had another days productive gardening with the pole pruner and the strimmer. I hacked down as much stuff with the pruner in half an hour as my wife managed to achieve in a day last year.

  Yeah the pole pruner is great (I have a gas model)! BUT be careful you can make a big mess to pick up real fast. One of the first times I used it I spent maybe an hour  cutting all around the property. When I got done I looked around and thought Oh cr..  [eek]  Took me about six hours the next day to clean it all up.  [blink]

Seth

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], I don't think you are cutting real HEAVY stuff with the pole pruner.  You should put your Grasshopper to good use along with the pruner.  When i do a pruning job, large or small, i use my Skag to clean up the brush.  A few minutes with the mower and a few minutes with the sweep rake, and the mess has disappeared.  You would be surprised how large diameter twigs/branches can disappear in a hurry with no damage to the mower blades. 
Tinker

  Yes, I do use the Grasshopper to get rid of a lot of the twigs now.  But that first time was a lot 2" -4" limbs from about 20 big pine trees.  ::)  It is mostly smaller stuff now. I just got the hedge trimmer attachment and use that for the forsythia , willow tree and such. That debris was quickly windrowed with a rake and then ground up with the Grasshopper. I try to stay under 1" for Grasshopper "shredding".

Seth

[member=71333]seth[/member] I forgot the new blades yesterday while reading the conversation. Do you know about the "rockface blades". They have extra welding along the cutting edge. They are also made with spring steel (I think). You can mow over rocks without damage. When I started using the blades, I  get a whole season with them on my Skag. I have a job where I destroy blades with so many rocks. I get awhole season out  of the blades.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
cliffp said:
Had another days productive gardening with the pole pruner and the strimmer. I hacked down as much stuff with the pruner in half an hour as my wife managed to achieve in a day last year.

  Yeah the pole pruner is great (I have a gas model)! BUT be careful you can make a big mess to pick up real fast. One of the first times I used it I spent maybe an hour  cutting all around the property. When I got done I looked around and thought Oh cr..  [eek]  Took me about six hours the next day to clean it all up.  [blink]

Seth

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], I don't think you are cutting real HEAVY stuff with the pole pruner.  You should put your Grasshopper to good use along with the pruner.  When i do a pruning job, large or small, i use my Skag to clean up the brush.  A few minutes with the mower and a few minutes with the sweep rake, and the mess has disappeared.  You would be surprised how large diameter twigs/branches can disappear in a hurry with no damage to the mower blades. 
Tinker

  Yes, I do use the Grasshopper to get rid of a lot of the twigs now.  But that first time was a lot 2" -4" limbs from about 20 big pine trees.  ::)  It is mostly smaller stuff now. I just got the hedge trimmer attachment and use that for the forsythia , willow tree and such. That debris was quickly windrowed with a rake and then ground up with the Grasshopper. I try to stay under 1" for Grasshopper "shredding".

Seth

[member=71333]seth[/member] I forgot the new blades yesterday while reading the conversation. Do you know about the "rockface blades". They have extra welding along the cutting edge. They are also made with spring steel (I think). You can mow over rocks without damage. When I started using the blades, I  get a whole season with them on my Skag. I have a job where I destroy blades with so many rocks. I get awhole season out  of the blades.
Tinker

I will have to check them out. I have an extra high lift old set that I use for shredding yard debri.

Seth
 
I don't know who makes them. I just specify "Rock Face". My 'guru' knows. He is the one who put me on to "rock face" blades
Tinker

 
SRSemenza said:
Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
Tinker said:
SRSemenza said:
cliffp said:
Had another days productive gardening with the pole pruner and the strimmer. I hacked down as much stuff with the pruner in half an hour as my wife managed to achieve in a day last year.

  Yeah the pole pruner is great (I have a gas model)! BUT be careful you can make a big mess to pick up real fast. One of the first times I used it I spent maybe an hour  cutting all around the property. When I got done I looked around and thought Oh cr..  [eek]  Took me about six hours the next day to clean it all up.  [blink]

Seth

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member], I don't think you are cutting real HEAVY stuff with the pole pruner.  You should put your Grasshopper to good use along with the pruner.  When i do a pruning job, large or small, i use my Skag to clean up the brush.  A few minutes with the mower and a few minutes with the sweep rake, and the mess has disappeared.  You would be surprised how large diameter twigs/branches can disappear in a hurry with no damage to the mower blades. 
Tinker

  Yes, I do use the Grasshopper to get rid of a lot of the twigs now.  But that first time was a lot 2" -4" limbs from about 20 big pine trees.  ::)  It is mostly smaller stuff now. I just got the hedge trimmer attachment and use that for the forsythia , willow tree and such. That debris was quickly windrowed with a rake and then ground up with the Grasshopper. I try to stay under 1" for Grasshopper "shredding".

Seth

[member=71333]seth[/member] I forgot the new blades yesterday while reading the conversation. Do you know about the "rockface blades". They have extra welding along the cutting edge. They are also made with spring steel (I think). You can mow over rocks without damage. When I started using the blades, I  get a whole season with them on my Skag. I have a job where I destroy blades with so many rocks. I get awhole season out  of the blades.
Tinker

I will have to check them out. I have an extra high lift old set that I use for shredding yard debri.

Seth

Are you guys familiar with Marbain blades?  They're supposed to be tougher and last longer than regular blades.
https://www.fisherbarton.com/products/turf-care/marbain/
https://www.fisherbarton.com/blog/why-you-need-marbain-blades/

The other blade that's of interest to me is their LaserEdge® Eversharp™ blade where the metal wears away so that it continually produces a new edge, similar to how 3M Cubitron abrasives behave. It may not be for everyone but for a battery powered lawnmower I'd bet it helps battery run time considerably.
https://www.fisherbarton.com/products/turf-care/laseredge/

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One of the most interesting parts of this conversation is the reminder of just how quickly a mower blade can dull.  I think every freshly-sharpened blade I've installed on my 21" push mower has been dull enough not to worry about slicing a finger by the time I'm done with my first full pass of the front and backyard of our ~.3 acre lot.
 
I don’t have a mower so I’m asking in total ignorance does it matter whether bevel is on the top or bottom of the blade on a mower?

I’m thinking if the bevel is on the bottom of the blade, and the mower is electric instead of gas, you could turn the mower on it’s side and quickly re-sharpen with a cordless grinder.

 
Michael Kellough said:
I don’t have a mower so I’m asking in total ignorant does it matter whether bevel is on the top or bottom of the blade on a mower?

I’m thinking if the bevel is on the bottom of the blade, and the mower is electric instead of gas, you could turn the mower on it’s side and quickly re-sharpen with a cordless grinder.

The blades usually have a pair of "lift stations" somewhere along the blade to lift the grass when cutting it. That lift also promotes better bagging when using a grass catcher bag.

Here's the standard Stihl blade and then a Fisher Barton mulching/shredder blade.

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Well I'm a big Stihl fan...really not that much different than Festool equipment, it's as simple as buy once, cry once.  [smile]

I'm still using Stihl equipment daily that I purchased back in 2004. What item is more abused than a TS 400 cement saw? The dust...the water...the dirt...the total lack of monthly maintenance.

At any rate, I periodically check in with Stihl to look at their latest product releases. Just noticed today that they now offer 13 variations of BATTERY powered trimmers vs 5 variations of their gas powered trimmers.

Three years ago those numbers were reversed...so much for the knuckleheads that think battery tools will follow the ox cart into oblivion.
 
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