Suggestions for which rails to buy

[darth2]

I tried searching but I'm new to the forum and haven't gotten the hang of it yet, although I'm sure this answer is out there.
What is the preferred combination of rails to have on hand for most ripping operations with sheet goods?  I am assuming a 55" is obvious so you can do sheets crosscut but if I have an angle across a sheet or a full length rip is a 32" and another 55" the way to get a long length using the connectors?  I've read a number of complaints about the connectors and would avoid them if it was a real issue.

I'm a site carpenter mostly so portability has some applicability but I do have a full size truck so a 1900 or 2700 wouldn't be ridiculous to carry around.  I'd be using an HKC with them rather than a TS.

Would I be better of with some of the other rail manufacturers?  Don't know all the cross compatibilities yet for the TS or HKC saws.

 

[zapdafish]

Don't know what combination to recommend but if buying a second rail, prob should consider getting the one with the holes in case you ever end up with an lr32. Wish I knew about this when I got an extra rail as I lucked into a used lr 32 system.
https://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-491622-32-mm-hole-drilling-95-guide-rail.html

 

[Mario Turcot]

I don't know much about the HKC. Assuming the saw is compatible with the standard rails and that storage is not an issue, I would go with the FS 2700/2

For sheet ripping make sure to use the right blade. Personally on a full sheet ripping I always clamp the rail.

Like zapdafish mentionned, if you plan on the FS-1800/2 for cross cuts, get the holey one. Same price with more options  8)

 

[RustE]

The HKC55 can use both the FS and FSK guide rails.  The TS55 can use only the FS guide rail.

I purchased the typical FS1400 guide rail for cutting sheet goods with the HK55.  The FS1900 is the better option for cutting 5x5 sheets of Baltic Birch, but I don’t have a spot to store it right now.

In my opinion, the blade to have for sheet goods is the 48-tooth Mafell, Part No. 092584.  At the very least make sure to have the 32-tooth Festool blade for the HK/HKC.

Festool literature says the thicker 48-tooth blade for the TS55 can be used in the HK/HKC.  I have not tried this because I don’t want to deal with the different blade thicknesses cutting the splinter strips.

 

[sancho57]

Depends, If you plan on building cabinets in the future and getting the LR 32 system,

I would get 2ea 55" holy rails with connectors. There are after amrket gizmos you can buy to ensure they are straight when joined. I happen to ot be that fussy and find if I take my TS 55 center it over the joint tighten the jibs (green knobs used to adj the saws tension on the rail) and tighten the connectors I get pretty straight cuts.

If you dont plan on getting the LR32 system you can alway get the 1900mm rail and if you have a MFT that came with the 1080 rail that should do it for you.

 

[rst]

If I were doing site work my preference would be a 1900 and a 1400 with Makita joiners.  You can insure straight by clamping, with spring clamps, your 4' level to the two when connecting.  Most of my cutting is in the shop, my most used are my 1900 and 3000 (I was fed up joining rails), that being said, I own a sizes and all three HKC sizes.

 

[PaulH99]

+1

This is EXACTLY the setup I have and how I connect them together.

If I were doing site work my preference would be a 1900 and a 1400 with Makita joiners.  You can insure straight by clamping, with spring clamps, your 4' level to the two when connecting.  Most of my cutting is in the shop, my most used are my 1900 and 3000 (I was fed up joining rails), that being said, I won a sizes and all three HKC sizes.

 

[ColossusX]

On site I use 2x55imch Makita rails with my makita TS.  The rails are compatible.  And cheaper.  I have no quality issues with my makita rails

 

[ear3]

I use the Makita connectors when I have to join rails, but life really is much easier if you get a long rail.  I built a wooden case for mine for transport and storage. 

One note -- if you get a long rail it really pays to get the 3000 rather than the 2700.  The 3000 allows you to do diagonal cuts on full sheets, and is also useful if you ever have to joint the edge of boards or do long rips in the absence of a table saw.  That extra 300mm, permits you to work on stock slightly north of 9 ft.

 

[Sanderxpander]

The connectors aren't so terrible, but they're not fail safe either and if you have to use them a lot and switch between ripping and cross cutting during a job you'd quickly get annoyed I think. If you can justify the cost and have the space I think you'd be way happier with a 2700 and a 1400 or something. Just something that would work for almost all cross cuts and one that would work for almost all rips. You can still use connectors for that one cut in a hundred, and I doubt you'd be off by any significant amount over that extra bit of length if you're careful.

By the way I have a TS55, two 1400s that came with it and one 800 I got with my OF1010. I really enjoy the 800 for quick crosscuts. It has allowed me to leave my two 1400s joined during some jobs which takes out some of the sting. None the less I've often wished for a 2700 but I just use my TS55 for my remodeling at home and I'd have nowhere to store it.

EDIT:
Oh and though they may seem pricey for a relatively simple tool, I really love my TSO Products guide rail square! Definitely consider one if you need basic square cuts a lot (when don't you, really, with a track saw).

 

[Klemm]

If I were doing site work my preference would be a 1900 and a 1400 with Makita joiners.  You can insure straight by clamping, with spring clamps, your 4' level to the two when connecting.  Most of my cutting is in the shop, my most used are my 1900 and 3000 (I was fed up joining rails), that being said, I own a sizes and all three HKC sizes.

+ 1 for MAKITA rail connectors if you must join rails and
+ 1 for longer rails rather than 2 rails connected

We get calls occasionally from customers who are struggling to crosscut a 48 inch width with a 55 inch FS1400 rail [unsure] A longer rail means one less factor to worry about.
@ear - points out his shop made carrying case for rails. Let me chime in and tell you that rails which are  not Straight is not as rare as one might think.  "Handle with Care!"  [wink]

Hans

 

[jarbroen]

Lots of good answers already but figure I will add my two cents.

I have the 75" that came with my TS75 and I have a holey 55".  The 75 is great for crosscutting full sheets of plywood.  Plenty of landing and takeoff run way for the saw.
The both together will easily rip 8' of plywood.  The connectors are kind of a pain though. 
What I found works way faster and easier is just using a parallel guide.  I have the Rip dogs version.  Just set up the width I want using the 75" track.  I set the guide with track on the starting end and cut the first length.  Then I slide the rail/guide to the other end and finish cutting.  No need to use connectors or do any marking(I do anyway just because).

The 75" really gets most of the sheet good tasks done for me.  The 55" is also nice to have when I'm cross cutting less than full width sheets.  It's a little easier to swing around. 

My vote would be a 55 or 75 (not sure the runway needed for the HKC) along with a parallel guide system.  I'd suggest the aftermarket setups like the Seneca Parallel guide system.

 

[live4ever]

My favorite and most flexible setup:
1900, holey 1400, and a short cross-cutting rail (since you're using the HKC, probably the FSK420). 

I also have the 118" (Makita-flavored), and while it is really nice for long rips, storage and portability is a pain so it doesn't get used as much.