Supporting Work for Jigsaw

[Steve F]

I am searching for a creative way of supporting thin (1/8") hardboard so that I can cut long (36") gradual curves with a jigsaw (making templates).  I realize that a scroll saw (or band saw) is the real solution, but I don't have wither one those.  The problem is that the hardboard shakes and wobbles unless it is supported near the cut line.  I know there are boards (V-Boards?) made to use with fret saws, but my cuts are long.  I can't imagine a 3' long V-Board.

I also thought about using rigid foam (like for the TS55), but can't imagine that would work where each cut follows a different path.  Also, since I can;t control the depth of the blade, the foam would need to be really thick to work.  Maybe 1" rigid foam elevated 2" off the workbench?

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

[Rob-GB]

Invert the jigsaw, as in like a router table. Festool make one but it is NAINA, so maybe make your own.

Just an Idea.
Rob.

 

[Steve F]

Has anyone used this?  I have read lots of negative comments about inverting a jigsaw, but if Festool makes a jig for it, I am guessing it must work.

As an aside, why are so many Festool products not available in the States?  For instance, what could prompt Festool to decide not to make a simple jig like this unavailable here?  Is it a new product and we just need to wait, or is there some strategic reason for Festool to withhold certain products from the North American market?  I could be wrong, but would think that the North American market is a significant one.

 

[RONWEN]

I'm guessing that it will require UL approval before being taken off of the NAINA list -- Those wise & powerful (& highly compensated) UL scientists must analyze it to determine that it can't be inadvertently plugged into a wall socket and cause harm...  [big grin]

 

[Rob-GB]

Steve, the official line is all about UL approval.
The cool thing about using a jigsaw inverted ( in a table or hand held) is that you can see the cut-line better and the blade leaves a splinter free cut. (N.B. unless you use a down cut blade like Bosch make for cutting laminate faced tops! ) It's like a mini bandsaw in use. Just try to guard the blade to avoid mishaps. A little thought and I'm sure you will sort it.
Rob.

 

[Rob-GB]

I'm guessing that it will require UL approval before being taken off of the NAINA list -- Those wise & powerful (& highly compensated) UL scientists must analyze it to determine that it can't be inadvertently plugged into a wall socket and cause harm...  [big grin]

CMS base units come with a no volt release switch, so it cannot be inadvertantly switched on at the 'wall'  and immediately cut anything.

The tool plugs into the N.V.R Switch, the N.V.R. Switch is plugged into a CTL mini or bigger, and the vac is plugged into the wall socket.
Still can't see the delay with U.L. Except one reason, that was prevelent in Greece a short time ago for many things. Just can't write it here!

Rob.

 

[Nigel]

Has anyone used this? 

   
    Yes,Ive got this for the cms.Last job I did was to rough cut some 30mm wavy oak spindles for a stair.It was easy enough to do with a good blade and makes light work off thinner stock .I would think it the ideal solution for your purpose.
    You could make a base easily from plywood.

 

[jmbfestool]

Yeah I make my own for my jigsaw just with MDF much easier to scribe architrave I think.  I am going to by the CMS system for my Cordless Carvex and for my OF2200 router and TS55 I think. When I saved up enough money and find room in my van for more festool at the moment its full I have used all my rows for festool boxes the Carvex used the last two slots cus I got the complete base kit with it properly never use any of it.

JMB

 

[harry_]

I am searching for a creative way of supporting thin (1/8") hardboard so that I can cut long (36") gradual curves with a jigsaw (making templates).  I realize that a scroll saw (or band saw) is the real solution, but I don't have wither one those.  The problem is that the hardboard shakes and wobbles unless it is supported near the cut line.  I know there are boards (V-Boards?) made to use with fret saws, but my cuts are long.  I can't imagine a 3' long V-Board.

I also thought about using rigid foam (like for the TS55), but can't imagine that would work where each cut follows a different path.  Also, since I can;t control the depth of the blade, the foam would need to be really thick to work.  Maybe 1" rigid foam elevated 2" off the workbench?

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Yes, you can! Figure out how much blade you need. Mark the blade. Put it in a vise or vise grips and snap it off. Done. I have done this more times than I can count for various reasons.

also works for sawzall blades

 

[Steve F]

Yes, you can! Figure out how much blade you need. Mark the blade. Put it in a vise or vise grips and snap it off. Done. I have done this more times than I can count for various reasons.

also works for sawzall blades
[/quote]

Duh!!  Cut the blade.  Thanks.  Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the hardest to see.  In the meantime, I found out that Skil makes a plate to hold an inverted jigsaw in their X worktable (or something like that).  I think I'm giving the foam and a shortened blade a try tonight.

Steve

 

[John Stevens]

Okay, I know this product isn't what you need, but I can't help posting this link to several sites selling the "bucket saw"--

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=bucket+saw&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Regards,

John

 

[Steve F]

Okay, I know this product isn't what you need, but I can't help posting this link to several sites selling the "bucket saw"--

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=bucket+saw&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Regards,

John

Wow!  It's simplicity and potential for serious injury are oddly appealing.  How easy would it be for that bucket to tip over?
It kind of brings back memories of that guy in Massachusetts who got $1.5 Million from Ryobi for mangling his hand in their table saw.

 

[jmbfestool]

I agree. Seems a bit easy to fall over to me.  Id rather stick to my quickly made MDF with a slot in it on some trestles.