Surfix for stairs

[ceddy]

I am almost done sanding down some maple stairs and was thinking of using heavy duty surfix. The stairs are quite steep, leading to the basement, and owner would like a more "matte" finnish since the previous finnish was very slippery. These stairs take a beating, I had to sand out huge scratches and such. How would surfix hold up? Seems to be very high quality maple, very thick as well. Plan B is to go with a carpet / runner in the middle.

Anybody have experience with using surfix for stairs? Would there be a different procedure with the application?

 

[Brice Burrell]

I have no experience with the Surfix oil but I'd be surprised if it was up to the task.  There are a plethora of finish specifically for floors available that I'm sure would be a better choice. 

 

[Scott B.]

One of my Surfix tests was on some pretty dense hemlock. I think it would work, since it sounds like these are occasional use basement stairs. If they are stringered, the hard part will be getting into the corners. I found it possible to cut vlies to the delta shape on an ro90 for corner work with surfix.

I would not use the one step interior oil. I would either use the HD Interior or the Exterior flavor.

 

[ceddy]

Thanks for the vid. I think I will give it a try on a smaller area to see what happens. Owners are leaving for about a month, so I have time to play around. I was also thinking of going with 220 grit for a final sanding and going "hardcore" with the oil application.

 

[Brice Burrell]

One of my Surfix tests was on some pretty dense hemlock. I think it would work, since it sounds like these are occasional use basement stairs. If they are stringered, the hard part will be getting into the corners. I found it possible to cut vlies to the delta shape on an ro90 for corner work with surfix.

I would not use the one step interior oil. I would either use the HD Interior or the Exterior flavor.

Actually, he said "these stairs take a beating".

 

[ceddy]

Well, what I meant by beating is that they are really steep and people tend to "scuff" the edges of the steps making marks in the finnish. Honestly, the previous finnish was pretty thick and though. I don't expect surfix to prevent this, but I think it wouldn't look as bad since there would't be such a contrast between a high gloss finnish and the matte marks of shoes being left behind. Again, I think I should just test this on my self.

 

[Scott B.]

Actually, he said "these stairs take a beating".[/quote]

Indeed, but I still would roll the dice that an exterior rated oil that is intended for application on horizontal wood surfaces would probably be up to the task. "Beating" in the stair tread realm is usually a pretty relative term.

 

[woodguy7]

Sounds like you might be better fitting a plastic or rubber nosing to each tread ?

 

[skids]

Poloplaz..It meets all the standards for grip. Once it settles down it's excellent, I have it on Oak stairs and my whole family walks on it in socks daily with no slips.

If it were that much of a concern you could always add a fine silicate for more grip. But nothing beats the durability of Poloplaz. Best finish I have ever used and easy as pie to apply. Hey that rhymed.

I would also suggest looking at the rail heights too, maybe those needs adjusting which can make for a much more comfortable staircase if you raise rails that are currently installed too low.

 

[skids]

Actually, he said "these stairs take a beating".

Indeed, but I still would roll the dice that an exterior rated oil that is intended for application on horizontal wood surfaces would probably be up to the task. "Beating" in the stair tread realm is usually a pretty relative term.
[/quote]

Very true..Only thing I would point out is that most of the technology of an exterior finish is centered around dealing with UV and temperature fluctuations. I would say any really good interior floor finish, water based or a quality OMU would be fine here. When I say quality I mean what the pros use, Bona Traffic, Poloplaz etc..They can be slightly modified and will enhance the beuaty of that maple rather than augment the look with a tint or rubber cover.

 

[Scott B.]

Actually, he said "these stairs take a beating".

Indeed, but I still would roll the dice that an exterior rated oil that is intended for application on horizontal wood surfaces would probably be up to the task. "Beating" in the stair tread realm is usually a pretty relative term.

Very true..Only thing I would point out is that most of the technology of an exterior finish is centered around dealing with UV and temperature fluctuations. I would say any really good interior floor finish, water based or a quality OMU would be fine here. When I say quality I mean what the pros use, Bona Traffic, Poloplaz etc..They can be slightly modified and will enhance the beuaty of that maple rather than augment the look with a tint or rubber cover.
[/quote]

Good point, skids. The other aspect of exterior formulations that sometimes comes in handy in basement situations is anti-fungal/mildew/mold properties which, depending on the nature of the basement, can help with resistance to those organic matters as basements are often dark and odd micro-climates.

Overall, as a painter who installs and maintains stair finishes alot, I do go for omu (zar ultramax satin) as well as Waterlox or Durashield. Truth be told, on basement stairs, we sometimes go with a porch and floor type of enamel for best maintenance.

 

[nehardwoodfloors]

This would be my top choice for grip and a runnerless maple stairway, in which durability is key.

http://www.bona.com/en/Professional/BonaSystem/Coatings/Finishes/Bona-Traffic-Antislip/

My experience with the hard wax oils is...
Its a great green option that allows for creating contrasting and aging effects on wood. They have a great feel to them but if you sand it to 220 the stairs will be like ICE once finished.
Also these Oils IMO are really not even close in durability, to a 2 component water based finish. This had led us to us the oils for their lack of voc's and for their looks. Then when dry we have been coating them with the first zero voc 2K waterbased finish in the world. Vermeister Zero, used in Matte. You can barely tell its there.

 

[skids]

This would be my top choice for grip and a runnerless maple stairway, in which durability is key.

http://www.bona.com/en/Professional/BonaSystem/Coatings/Finishes/Bona-Traffic-Antislip/

My experience with the hard wax oils is...
Its a great green option that allows for creating contrasting and aging effects on wood. They have a great feel to them but if you sand it to 220 the stairs will be like ICE once finished.
Also these Oils IMO are really not even close in durability, to a 2 component water based finish. This had led us to us the oils for their lack of voc's and for their looks. Then when dry we have been coating them with the first zero voc 2K waterbased finish in the world. Vermeister Zero, used in Matte. You can barely tell its there.

Yep, this is good stuff. Hard as nails. Point to note on anything from the Traffic line up, it's tricky to apply, compared to a OMU. Mainly due to set up times, and mixing etc..But, on stairs not as much an issue. Nonetheless, I would practice with it before I took it to the stairs.

 

[sancho57]

Polo Plaz, Use the moisture cured eurithane…..

They do make a water base now.

I havent used the w/b yet. but will soon.