Surfix questions

[Tayler_mann]

So I am thinking of buying the suffix kit for my new line of furniture. I have never used it not have I met anyone who has used it. I would like some insight from people who have used it and have seen the durability. My main questions are; is it easy to apply if you do it after assembly or is it only a flat application. If you do it after assembly is it difficult and how do you applicate it to corners and such. Also any other tid bits that will help inaling me decide.

 

[Cheese]

I've used the Surfix Outdoor for the last 2-3 years on outdoor teak furniture. A full application lasts about 1 year on horizontal surfaces and so far up to 2-3 years on vertical surfaces. All items are covered year around. Large flat surfaces are easiest obviously, and when you get into the intersections of table legs and aprons a small brush or small foam applicator is a must. If you need to get in between chair slats then that becomes its own project. Generally happy with the results, as it's the best stuff that I've found and I've tried a bunch over the last 15 years that we've owned the teak furniture.

 

[leakyroof]

My thoughts follow 'Cheese's experiences except I haven't seen any real service life in an Outdoor application once enough Sun light has been on a piece that I've used the Outdoor oil on. I think the UV package/additive in the Outdoor Oil, if there is any, is too weak like many other oils out there that claim to have UV additives in them.
I got way less than 1 year on Horizontal wood before it needed work, BUT, I didn't get any Mildew or Blackening of the wood like with some plain oils, so that WAS a plus.
For all other interior uses, I like it alot for the times I've used it in that respect.
About the only thing I haven't tried it on is for flooring, since we use Film finishes for that.
Certain woods are better looking with an Oil Finish than others, so that's another thing to think about.

 

[Tayler_mann]

My thoughts follow 'Cheese's experiences except I haven't seen any real service life in an Outdoor application once enough Sun light has been on a piece that I've used the Outdoor oil on. I think the UV package/additive in the Outdoor Oil, if there is any, is too weak like many other oils out there that claim to have UV additives in them.
I got way less than 1 year on Horizontal wood before it needed work, BUT, I didn't get any Mildew or Blackening of the wood like with some plain oils, so that WAS a plus.
For all other interior uses, I like it alot for the times I've used it in that respect.
About the only thing I haven't tried it on is for flooring, since we use Film finishes for that.
Certain woods are better looking with an Oil Finish than others, so that's another thing to think about.

One thing I want to use it on is coffee and end tables. My biggest problem with that is of course glass marks etc do to the nature of the piece. Oil finishes always looks so much better than polys, lacquer and etc. I want that natural oil finish to bring out the natural beauty of the piece and to enhance the uniqueness of each piece like oil does so well. I guess my main question is about water damage and things like that. I've also thought of doing the surfix finish and following it up with an application of Renaissance wax and my Rotex. I really want to pick a good finish though because the furniture is not only functional but a timeless piece of lifetime guranteed art.

 

[Cheese]

One thing I want to use it on is coffee and end tables. My biggest problem with that is of course glass marks etc do to the nature of the piece. Oil finishes always looks so much better than polys, lacquer and etc. I want that natural oil finish to bring out the natural beauty of the piece and to enhance the uniqueness of each piece like oil does so well. I guess my main question is about water damage and things like that. I've also thought of doing the surfix finish and following it up with an application of Renaissance wax and my Rotex. I really want to pick a good finish though because the furniture is not only functional but a timeless piece of lifetime guranteed art.

The paste wax application may help with the ring marks left from cold beverages. The Surfix system used by itself will show off any ring marks, so I've taken a damp towel to the marks and that does lighten them up some what. However, excessive buffing with the towel to completely eliminate the water marks also lightens up the color of the finish. As of now, I just take a damp towel to the entire table after using it so that the table color remains uniform and am resigned to refinishing it once a year or so. I'm also looking into better furniture covers that may lengthen the time needed between refinishing.

 

[Tayler_mann]

One thing I want to use it on is coffee and end tables. My biggest problem with that is of course glass marks etc do to the nature of the piece. Oil finishes always looks so much better than polys, lacquer and etc. I want that natural oil finish to bring out the natural beauty of the piece and to enhance the uniqueness of each piece like oil does so well. I guess my main question is about water damage and things like that. I've also thought of doing the surfix finish and following it up with an application of Renaissance wax and my Rotex. I really want to pick a good finish though because the furniture is not only functional but a timeless piece of lifetime guranteed art.

The paste wax application may help with the ring marks left from cold beverages. The Surfix system used by itself will show off any ring marks, so I've taken a damp towel to the marks and that does lighten them up some what. However, excessive buffing with the towel to completely eliminate the water marks also lightens up the color of the finish. As of now, I just take a damp towel to the entire table after using it so that the table color remains uniform and am resigned to refinishing it once a year or so. I'm also looking into better furniture covers that may lengthen the time needed between refinishing.

Since i am not the end user of the furniture I feel that I will have to do some tests with a few different types of coatings. I don't want customers to have to do much to it if you can understand from that point. I think the only way to figure it out is to take the $150 plunge and do trial and error till I figure it out. I really would like to do an oil finish but I need to make sure it's a logical finish for the application of the piece. I can't excpect someone to pay heirloom price for furniture and have their 13 year old ruin it the second day they get it. I think I'll start a new thread under finishes to find a finish that gives me the same natural appeal as oil but offers outstanding resistance. I have a spray booth and can use lacquer but I hate what it does to the look of the furniture. It makes it so factory reproduced looking.

 

[leakyroof]

One thing I want to use it on is coffee and end tables. My biggest problem with that is of course glass marks etc do to the nature of the piece. Oil finishes always looks so much better than polys, lacquer and etc. I want that natural oil finish to bring out the natural beauty of the piece and to enhance the uniqueness of each piece like oil does so well. I guess my main question is about water damage and things like that. I've also thought of doing the surfix finish and following it up with an application of Renaissance wax and my Rotex. I really want to pick a good finish though because the furniture is not only functional but a timeless piece of lifetime guranteed art.

The paste wax application may help with the ring marks left from cold beverages. The Surfix system used by itself will show off any ring marks, so I've taken a damp towel to the marks and that does lighten them up some what. However, excessive buffing with the towel to completely eliminate the water marks also lightens up the color of the finish. As of now, I just take a damp towel to the entire table after using it so that the table color remains uniform and am resigned to refinishing it once a year or so. I'm also looking into better furniture covers that may lengthen the time needed between refinishing.

Since i am not the end user of the furniture I feel that I will have to do some tests with a few different types of coatings. I don't want customers to have to do much to it if you can understand from that point. I think the only way to figure it out is to take the $150 plunge and do trial and error till I figure it out. I really would like to do an oil finish but I need to make sure it's a logical finish for the application of the piece. I can't excpect someone to pay heirloom price for furniture and have their 13 year old ruin it the second day they get it. I think I'll start a new thread under finishes to find a finish that gives me the same natural appeal as oil but offers outstanding resistance. I have a spray booth and can use lacquer but I hate what it does to the look of the furniture. It makes it so factory reproduced looking.

  You could add a wiping varnish as a top coat to help with wear and tear.
This way you control the gloss, play with the depth of the oil finish under the varnish and not need to spray a piece unless you really thought it was best to do so.
Bob Flexner has excellent Finishing Books out, I highly recommend them since he dives through many woodworking myths and lays out factual, accurate info on different types of finishes.