Kodi Crescent
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I have some the first generation Syslites. They do not turn on unless plugged in. Kind of defeats the purpose for having it. Has anyone taken these apart and replaced the batteries?
Syslite rehab?
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yetihunter
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Kodi Crescent
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Frank-Jan said:
You can open the back with a Torx driver. You have to do a bit of prying to get the housing away from the metal base. It does not want to come off easily, but it comes apart in two pieces. The battery pack is located between the 2 housing halves.
The battery pack consists of (2) 18650 LI-on cells wired in series, with a thermal protection circuit attached. Replacement cells and parts from a local battery store cost about $20.
Rebuilding it took about 3 hours. Most of the time was spent rebuilding the battery pack and figuring out how to get the housing away from the frame. I don't know that I find this thing useful enough for that amount of effort; others may have a different experience.
Thank you for the update. If you would get the more expensive original festool part, would that make it plug and play, or is there soldering required either way? If that's the case, I'll probably just keep using it with an external battery when mine dies. (I can solder gutters and zinc dripcaps, but I never tried electronics)
yetihunter
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I’m going to go with it’s probably got the pigtail hanging off of it. No soldering.
But very tight connectors.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]
But very tight connectors.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]
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Kodi Crescent
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Sorry I didn't see your message before you tore that apart. [sad]
It is a plug-in part. I had to tear that apart down to the cell level and carefully get the little electronic board out between the cells.
The battery store offered pack building services, but they wouldn't do it for Li-on batteries; those batteries carry a risk of fire or explosion if they get too hot. Ideally, a spot welder is used to re-assemble the pack using metal tabs.
I was able to get the electronic board off the cells with minimal damage to the metal connection tabs. I have a resistance soldering system, so I could apply heat almost instantly. I probably could have done it safely with a high-quality soldering iron and the proper flux and solder.
It is a plug-in part. I had to tear that apart down to the cell level and carefully get the little electronic board out between the cells.
The battery store offered pack building services, but they wouldn't do it for Li-on batteries; those batteries carry a risk of fire or explosion if they get too hot. Ideally, a spot welder is used to re-assemble the pack using metal tabs.
I was able to get the electronic board off the cells with minimal damage to the metal connection tabs. I have a resistance soldering system, so I could apply heat almost instantly. I probably could have done it safely with a high-quality soldering iron and the proper flux and solder.
yetihunter
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[big grin] I literally was bored out of my mind at that moment. :0
I recently had a problem with my syslite, I was using it on an attic with the netadapter plugged in, and when I rushed to get something, my foot caught behind the cable and the syslite fell.
Afterwards the light wouldn’t charge anymore (so I used it with an external battery, and decided to order a new netadapter).
The oldstyle was discontinued, so I ordered the netadapter for the KAL II syslight.
When it arrived, the light still wouldn’t charge, so I opened it up to see if I could spot something loose/broken inside.
Everything looked fine, and I saw that the connector for the charger was on it’s own little pcb (partnumber 498855)). So I decided to order that part, and a new lense (partnumber 498853), because I spilled a bit of pvc glue on it years ago, and the frosted glass effect on just one of the LEDs annoyed me a lot).
When the parts arrived, they had also added the plastic housing parts (numbers 498856 and 10044556,which I didn’t order).
Install was a bit tricky, because of the short length of the wires, but with the help of some longish tweezers to push in the connectors, I got it all back together and it works fine again.
(It turned out that the old adapter was indeed broken aswell).
Allthough my light is from 2012, batterylife is still not noticeable worse than when it was new (90 minutes on bright)
Afterwards the light wouldn’t charge anymore (so I used it with an external battery, and decided to order a new netadapter).
The oldstyle was discontinued, so I ordered the netadapter for the KAL II syslight.
When it arrived, the light still wouldn’t charge, so I opened it up to see if I could spot something loose/broken inside.
Everything looked fine, and I saw that the connector for the charger was on it’s own little pcb (partnumber 498855)). So I decided to order that part, and a new lense (partnumber 498853), because I spilled a bit of pvc glue on it years ago, and the frosted glass effect on just one of the LEDs annoyed me a lot).
When the parts arrived, they had also added the plastic housing parts (numbers 498856 and 10044556,which I didn’t order).
Install was a bit tricky, because of the short length of the wires, but with the help of some longish tweezers to push in the connectors, I got it all back together and it works fine again.
(It turned out that the old adapter was indeed broken aswell).
Allthough my light is from 2012, batterylife is still not noticeable worse than when it was new (90 minutes on bright)
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Birdhunter
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Thanks.
