Sysport is Not Square - What to Do?

[BadRobot]

I am not woodworker by professional but I am DIYer.  I have a couple Festool, for instance, Track Saw TS 55 REQ, Router OF2200, MFT/3, CT 48.  However, I have the same problem as yours sometime.  I attempted to build Sysport once but my cuts were not square.  So I ended up built my Sysport with 80/20 Aluminum T-Slot.  I can adjust as needed.  It is square.  The good part is I can adjust the gap between Systainers.  Additional, I can expand the height as high as I want.  Here is my first version.

 

[nclemmons]

[member=36908]BadRobot[/member] please share more details on how you built your sys ports.  Curious what you used to attach the drawer glides to the 80/20 for example.  Are there sides in the units or just the four posts?

 

[BadRobot]

Here they are.

This is the first generation.  I am working on dual stack that can fit both Systainer and Harbor Freight storage boxes in the same rack without each horizontal t-slot for each rail.

 

[Kev]

The idea of 80/20 or similar is very appealing to me (as a kid growing up with Mecano) but in Oz the pricing is really over the top. I know if I started making things with it the addiction would kick in. Bulk 80/20 and the right blade for the KAPEX have been in the back of my mind for a while ... Yet another great excuse for procrastination [wink]

 

[BadRobot]

Actually, it does not cost much as you think.  I bought overstock 80/20 aluminum extrusion t-slots instead of new ones.  The ones that I used was 10 series.  I bought 74" for $9.99.  The total cost of my first version was less than $150 exclude Festool Sys AZ.

 

[BMAC]

A 48" piece of 10 series is over $20 here in Canada less shipping so a fair bit more if you need to import it. We are adjacent to the US so shipping is by ground as opposed to where Kev lives in Oz where such things arrive weeks or more later by ship

 

[Holmz]

...As I mentioned in my original post, I was worried that I may have this issue because I did have trouble getting exact parallel and square cuts.  (My main issue was parallel cuts on my rips.)  So I have decided to use this opportunity to improve that part of my workflow.  This week I received a new pair of Festool Parallel Guides and I am going to use this opportunity (and the wood that I have) to fully calibrate the parallel guide scales and then to make test cuts to ensure I can get parallel cuts at my desired measurement.  I will also square off those pieces and ensure I can cut multiple pieces that are all the same size.  I am then going to start over with the Sysports. 

Because of cutting issues I was ending up having to make the sysports slightly smaller than my original intent anyway so this will give me the opportunity to correct that.  And I will consider the initial plywood cost to be educational cost!  So, I'll report back when I get to this point again.

Thanks again for the tips.

Pat

Really?
How far out are they?
It seems to hard to imagine that they are out  by more than a 2-mm. 1-mm is pretty easy to and also pretty easy to be out by. 0.5-mm (1/64") is about as close as I can do with a 0.5mm pencil and the tracks laid onto the sheets and clamped.

If you let us know the dimensions of all 4 pieces? (then it is easy to show the method.)

In any case the 910/900 one can skosh (sukoshi) it over with a clamp.
Even if they were cut perfect it is highly likely that they would be out on the diagonal and need a sukoshi-clamp to bring them around.
There is almost no way that they can be assembled and glued without squaring unless you have the anti-racking 1/4" sheet in the back when you glue it up.

I think I would start with a dado in the back and put that sheet in.