Systainer 'Plate' for adding shopmade accessories

[SteveD]

My cyclone collector sits precariously on top of my CT-22 with a couple of bungee cords holding it to the handle/boom arm.  Yesterday as I was emptying the collector I asked myself if Tanos makes a systainer base that could be used to mount, er, 'shop made' accessories. On a review of the Tanos site (in German) I saw a couple of possibilities, but nothing doing. As I really thought about it, the only place that such an item could be used is on a Festool CT. Ergo not an item that might be economic to produce for the few people who might use it unless it could also be attached to the top of a systainer. Turn a stack of systainers into a small table, or drinks tray.
Apart from cannibalizing the bottom couple of inches of a systainer has anyone found any easy options to attach things where a systainer is designed to go?  I can make a plate to fit in the space on the top of the CT but not sensibly attach to the CT using the systainer socket and clips.
Any offers?

(For those of you with spare systainers there may be a new market!)
SteveD

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have ordered a Dust Deputy from Oneida.  I am thinking of making a base from birch plywood that would couple to the top of my CT-22 unless the Dust Deputy is too big and heavy to fit, or it make the assembly too top heavy and prone to tipping.  Has anyone done this?

Dave R.

 

[Les]

I have the Dust Deputy. I thought about setting it on top of the CT but since I use the CT to set my tools, decided against it. I'm planning to make a rolling cart for the DD. May make a hitch to attach the CT and DD.

 

[Ned]

SteveD,

It seems to me this could be more generally useful if there were both a top and bottom.

The Systainer-compatible bottom could be a simple aluminum plate of the right shape.

The top, also aluminum, would have to be more elaborate, including at least the latching mechanism if not a handle.

With these two components, columns of, say, 80-20 extrusions could be cut to length, making a Systainer-compatible frame or cage of any height.  The columns could be at the corners, on the central axis, or irregularly placed to suit.

A frame-based boom box with swing-out speakers would be cool.

Swing-out panels for hand tool storage, competition for the hand tool insert.

Portable computer, or maybe better, portable printer.

Wire mesh.  Animal cage.  I did look at using a Systainer as an evacuation crate for my dog.  Just a bit tight, but it would work for smaller critters.  Or take your favorite houseplant to work with you (my wife made me put that in).

Extension cord or air hose reel mounted within the cage.

Big work light.

Internally mounted power strip and battery chargers, with a front access door.

Front folds down to form a writing surface, storage pigeonholes within.  Sort of an update of the lap desk or officer's desk.

Fan.

Coffee break!  Propane stove.  Don't forget the insulated Systainer for the soft drinks.

Hey, I'm on a roll here!

Ned

 

[Eli]

A garage door with big green latches......

 

[brandon.nickel]

Couldn't you do this pretty quickly using some MDF (or other wood) and a flush-bearing bit?  Carve the rough shape out of the MDF (trace around the bottom of the systainer), then affix it to the systainer via glue/screws/non-slip pad, and circle the systainer with a router.  If needed, square up the inside corners with a chisel or mortising bit. 

Is there some reason that wouldn't work?

 

[Corwin]

I have seen where someone has already made a MDF plate to fit on top of the CT vacs.  Check out the photos on ClearView's gallery.  This is what I'll do.

Corwin

 

[Ned]

MDF would work just fine for mounting the cyclone on the vac.  You're probably not going to move the vac by picking up the cyclone.

I frequently pick up my CT-22 by an attached Systainer's handle with no problem.  I think any general Systainer solution must allow this kind of use--if not a vac underneath, at least one or more other Systainers.

As a general Systainer plate, I don't think MDF wouldn't be a good choice for handling the stress at the latching tabs.  You could attach bits of steel or aluminum in routed recesses in the MDF and protruding to form the tabs.  Good quality plywood might be better than MDF.

Aluminum plate I think would be best of all.

Ned

 

[SteveD]

Yes, the point is not just a plate that sits in the space, but latches and secures firmly to the CT-22 the same way a systainer would.

SteveD

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  I don't know how much aluminum plate costs , but it can't be cheap. How about splitting a systainer 1 horizontally all the way around its girth. Yielding a 2" deep bottom and 2" deep top.  These could be further cut down (shallower) and/or filled in with plywood or mdf to make them nice and solid. This would create a systainer bottom and top adapter that fit perfectly into the system with no machining for the latches.  Whatever you want could be mounted inside or attached to the filler. 

Seth

 

[VictorL]

You have another option:
Take systeiner IV or V then cut rectangular hole on side and attach hinges. You?ll get nice storage compartment for cleaning tools, cables etc.

Victor

 

[Mike_Chrest]

I used a piece of 1/2" birch plywood that was floating around. I notched the edge to fit into the sockets and accept the latches (with a jigsaw). It wasn't that difficult. Took about 15 min. Cost $0. 8)

 

[Eli]

Aluminum plate isn't too bad in terms of cost. I like Ned's idea of just using it in the stress areas, at each latch. You could get everything you needed out of a piece of 3" aluminum bar stock 2' long. IMO would need at least three bolts per to ply base though.

 

[Mike_Chrest]

Picture of el chepo "plate" with notches(nochos?).[attachthumb=#]

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Nice!  Thanks for posting the photo.
Dave R.