T55 problem

[Dabcarpentry]

I have a t55 track saw that is 15 years old.
The last couple days when making straight rips threw 1 3/8 pine doors the blade bids up and starts deflecting hard after about 1foot . It never done this before and if have used this saw like crazy for the past 15 years. Any idea what would cause this? I took off the rifting knife and made a cut to see if it was bent but I still got the saw results. The only way I could get threw the cut is to cut 3/4 of a inch at a time and I still have to go over the cut 3 time to get the wood all off. There is also a brand new 48 tooth blade in it.
I am plugged in to a 20amp breaker and my kapex is cutting perfectly so there is no lack of power

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Have you always used a 48 tooth blade in your TS55 for cutting pine doors in the past..?

I would suggest a blade with far fewer teeth for that type of wood.

 

[Dabcarpentry]

Yes I only own finish blade because I only do finish cuts

 

[Doug S]

The saw is adjustable for parallel to the rail, is there a chance it has got knocked or become loose and moved?

Maybe get a piece of MDF or something, do a plunge cut at each end and run a straight edge between the cuts to see if they line up/are parallel to rail if that makes sense.

 

[oldie]

Reads like your very disappointed. Perhaps check that all screws, nuts, bolts, springs (whatever) are present and secure + blade seated properly. After checking that saw is correctly adjusted, try some test cuts.  Any chance of some images of the cut wood - might help diagnosis of your problem from more experienced members. 

 

[mrboult]

The saw is adjustable for parallel to the rail, is there a chance it has got knocked or become loose and moved?

Maybe get a piece of MDF or something, do a plunge cut at each end and run a straight edge between the cuts to see if they line up/are parallel to rail if that makes sense.

Yes to this. That’s where I’d put my money.

There are screw’s under the saw’s base to adjust this. Look for the videos. .

 

[semenza]

I suspect that since you have used the saw for 15 years that this is not the first thick rip cut you have made with the 48 tooth blade. But if it is, then the blade is probably the issue.

Try ripping something else, and try cutting some plywood.  If it is an adjustment problem or something is wrong with the saw then it should show up to some degree in other cuts.

If the blade is new, is this the first cut you have made with the new blade?  It could be a  bad blade even though it is new.

Seth

 

[mrboult]

I had the same issue with one of my Makita s, didn’t really notice it in 3/4 Ply but it showed up big time in thicker cuts. .

 

[Mario Turcot]

I would use a ripping blade 14T or 16T or any under 25T  [wink]

 

[mrboult]

I don’t see how defection is a tooth count issue. . Especially with my experience of the TS55. A fine blade might be slow or even burn if not sharp, but deflect? I don’t see it myself.

 

[semenza]

I guess some pics that show the deflection might help.  What sort of deflection exactly?

Is the cut actually going askew? 

Is the blade actually bending?

Is it just burning a lot?

Seth

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Dabcarpentry.  I assume you are clamping the rail in position....? You haven't stated this, but if the blade has too many teeth, forcing the saw through the cut on an un clamped rail could move the rail over a bit and take your cut offline...?

Try a different blade with fewer teeth. The difference in the cut quality on the bottom of a pine door will not be noticeable.

You say you've cut these type of doors before with the 48 tooth blade with no issues....? Doors made of a man made material, I would also use a 48 tooth blade, but not on Pine doors!