Table Saw Recommendations

[ear3]

Also, one more thing, I have never used a power feeder but I do own Jessem’s TS guides and they are really great. I can see how they would be awesome in your situation. Used in combination with a guard with anti kickback pauls,  they would completely eliminate the issue of a board wanting (or being able) to raise up. This would make the process of pushing a board through the cut SO much easier as no forward downward pressure would need to be applied by the user. I literally push narrow rips through with a 1/2” x 1/2” long stick that is completely flat on the table. All of the downward force is applied by the saw’s guard and the Jessem TS guides.

I would heartily second that recommendation.  With those guides one can literally pause in the middle of the cut with the saw still running, go to the bathroom/smoke a cigarette/take a phone call, then come back to finish it up.

 

[tallgrass]

First, keep up the PT and we look forward to hearing your progress.

I thought there would be difficulty in the ability to lean over and get under machines. My friend had this problem. This is why we changed the orientation of his tools. Inclining them much like a drafting table. The saw/table is attacked directly to the wall. Giving space for you and the chair so that you can get close. The angle of the table gives you a similar orientation as if you were standing. We used Inca table saw and their machines. The machines were less important than getting correct orientation. We made cardboard mock ups. then found the tools.  Just some thoughts.

 

[nvalinski]

Back on the track saw thread - if you would find something like this useful, you may have the best use case scenario I can think of for Mafell's self powered track saw. But it's more in the price range of a nice industrial cabinet saw.

 

[SonOfMI]

When I bought my SawStop Industrial, I included setup and adjustment. It was well worth the minimal extra cost. I did the same for an 8” jointer, large bandsaw, and large planer. I am well able to do the assembly and adjustment, but physically moving the big pieces into the shop is beyond my abilities. Also, the delivery team has assembled many SawStop saws and knows all the tricks.

I am a big proponent of SawStop. I was once an engineer and I see my SawStop as an exceptionally well designed and built machine.

Did you go through Redmond?  Before all this went down I was looking at replacing the Grizz with a SawStop.  My calendar had me on site for quite awhile then, so I was not going to be in my office or shop.  I was looking for someone to deliver and setup the saw.  Redmond would do that plus remove the Grizz and give me credit on a trade in.  They were the only ones that would deliver and setup that I could find.  I figured Rockler and Woodcraft would not do that.  I was somewhat surprised Peachtree didn't have those services.  I was very surprised Highland didn't.  That's like the only time Highland was even a bit of a letdown.

And yes, SawStop saws are built to very tight tolerances.

 

[SonOfMI]

First, keep up the PT and we look forward to hearing your progress.

I thought there would be difficulty in the ability to lean over and get under machines. My friend had this problem. This is why we changed the orientation of his tools. Inclining them much like a drafting table. The saw/table is attacked directly to the wall. Giving space for you and the chair so that you can get close. The angle of the table gives you a similar orientation as if you were standing. We used Inca table saw and their machines. The machines were less important than getting correct orientation. We made cardboard mock ups. then found the tools.  Just some thoughts.

This is the testing I stated previously but did not get into details on. 

 

[SonOfMI]

Coming a bit late to this thread: you ruled out the track saw, but if the work and the track are clamped I think you only need one hand for the saw.

I don't have an automatic chair, so I have to roll the wheels myself.  I have used just one hand to roll the chair.  It is a very slow process because when just one wheel is rolled, the chair goes in the opposite direction generally.  Example - roll just the left wheel and the chair starts going right.  You'll go in a circle eventually.  Having to stop rolling the left wheel to roll the right wheel and go back and forth can be done, but you can't do it too fast because of the chair's natural tendency to want to go in a circle with just one wheel rolling.  I have gotten strong enough to kind of flick one wheel and have it go straight, but its not very controlled.  I wouldn't feel safe doing either of these things while I had a powered on saw in my other hand, which is why I abandoned this idea.

 

[SonOfMI]

I'm thinking that you might want to compare the price of standard-height tools plus the cost of reducing that height to something that works for you against just the price of standard-height tools alone plus that cost of building a raised floor/platform around those tools that would essentially raise you to a comfortable position relative to the tools, it might be revealing.  Just a thought...

Already been done in some cases.  The best cost to benefit is still a couple of 2x4's and a sheet of 3/4" ply to raise up a jobsite saw a few inches. 

 

[JSlovic]

you might consider looking for an INCA 259 saw.  I've had one for 30+ years and enjoyed using it.  It's not the thing for ripping 4x8 ply but its very precise for intermediate or smaller work. You can easily mount it on a lowered stand for better access.  I got mine from highland woodworking new and they could likely give you more info especially if you speak to Chris or Sharon.

There's a really good Yahoo group that can provide more information on the whole Inca line or PM me for more info.
 

 

[Bob D.]

you might consider looking for an INCA 259 saw.  I've had one for 30+ years and enjoyed using it.  It's not the thing for ripping 4x8 ply but its very precise for intermediate or smaller work. You can easily mount it on a lowered stand for better access.  I got mine from highland woodworking new and they could likely give you more info especially if you speak to Chris or Sharon.

There's a really good Yahoo group that can provide more information on the whole Inca line or PM me for more info.

Interesting saw, did you have the mortise on yours? I can see some inspiration for the pantorouter there.

 

[nclemmons]

I’ve had an Inca 259 with mortise table for 35 years.  Great saw for precision and a nice compliment to the Festool track saw approach.  You can join the Inca Group in Yahoo groups and they frequently have used ones listed for sale.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/incawoodworking/info

Not sure it would be ideal if you are in a wheelchair however... certainly you could mount it lower to the ground given it is designed for a wooden stand.  But it’s a table tilt, not a blade tilt design.

 

[Bob D.]

"I don't have an automatic chair, so I have to roll the wheels myself.  I have used just one hand to roll the chair. 
It is a very slow process because when just one wheel is rolled, the chair goes in the opposite direction generally."

I read this and thought "Is there a way to link the two wheels together so force applied to one is transferred to the other wheel?"

Then I thought what about a shaft with a small wheel that contacted each of the chair wheels that could be engaged/disengaged as needed to allow for one-handed operation (patent pending  [smile] ). Sort of like the way you can lock an axle differential so both wheels turn together with no slip.

 

[SonOfMI]

The Bosch 4100 is the winner.  With all of the woodworking stores here plus several Lowes and Home Depot I was able to compare a bunch of DeWalt saws, the Bosch 4100 and the SawStop jobsite as well as contractor saws.  DeWalt has that slick fence, but I could not find a single one that had a flat top.  Every Bosch saw i checked had not only a flat top, but each was also setup spot on for miter slots to blade, miter gauge perpendicular to blade, and fence parallel to blade.  The same can be said for the SawStop saws.  The Bosch saw came with a stand that when it was collapsed and laid on the ground, put the saw at the perfect height for me to work with it.  If ~ 10 display models from DeWalt do not have flat tops, I'm not about to put money on them to have a flat top should I purchase one of their products.  I skipped the SawStop because I just cannot talk myself into dropping at least twice as much on them.  So I printed out a 25% off coupon Harbor Freight emailed me just before I made my decision and picked up a Bosch 4100 from Lowes.  I know Peachtree Woodworking sells Bosch products including the 4100 saw, but they won't accept Harbor Freight coupons plus I've had a hard time buying from them since I spent some time talking with David Keller on his dovetail jig vs Peachtree and their dovetail wiz. 

After I unboxed the saw I found the top to be flat as well as the setup to be spot on.  I was quite impressed.  I've had to make no adjustments to the fence, miter gauge, table, or trunnion.  I can't say the same for my Grizzly.  Assembling the stand was quite entertaining, but I'm still getting used to doing things at a much slower pace.  I've been working on building a base set of jigs I make for my saws then will build one of my custom MFT...with a thanks to Peter Parfitt for the tools to make a super accurate hole pattern and another thanks to TSO Products for selling his stuff on this side of the ocean plus their other super helpful tools.

I am looking into the Jessem guides, but have not made a decision on them just yet as I'm still seeing how they would merge/assist with my work flow. 

Thanks to those who contributed ideas and suggestions.

If you're interested, my therapy has progressed to using a walker which I've taken up pretty well.  So well in fact that I no longer use the parallel bars to stand or walk and I've been walking some at home with the walker.

 

[Alanbach]

Congrats on pulling the trigger on a saw. I know that you will be happy to make some sawdust again! Even bigger congratulations on the progress, that’s fantastic! Keep it up!

 

[Bob D.]

"If you're interested, my therapy has progressed to using a walker which I've taken up pretty well.  So well in fact that I no longer use the parallel bars to stand or walk and I've been walking some at home with the walker. "

Happy to hear you are making progress in regaining mobility.

When you started this thread I searched through all the digital copies of WWing mags I have and could find nothing that dealt with adapting a shop to deal with mobility issues. So I wrote to Woodsmith and suggested they do some articles on the subject. Their reply was that they have been thinking along those same lines and have something coming in the near future. They didn't say when but at least they are working on it. So maybe some of the others will pick up on it and include articles in their future issues from time to time. Probably wouldn't hurt if others here were to write them (as in any of the Woodworking mags) and suggest they cover the topic.

 

[ChuckM]

I have read a few articles on woodworking for or about people with disabilities. Fine Woodworking if my memory is correct. WOOD magazine:

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
plus I've had a hard time buying from them since I spent some time talking with David Keller on his dovetail jig vs Peachtree and their dovetail wiz. 

The PT's cheapo version did have an impact on Keller's sales. The last time I saw them both at the same tradeshow, after demo, quite a number of shoppers took PT's dovetail jigs. I think Keller later also had to release a cheaper option to counter.