Talk me out of trading in my TS55 for an HK

[Sourwould]

I think the rail square looks like it would only work well with sheet goods.

It would be nice if something was available like the saw guides used in Japan. I think the key is how it indexes forward and down, with a handle to get a good purchase.

Ive used the rail on floor joists more times than I can remember, on decking where I often cut four 100mm decking boards at a time and even on big oak frames where I've cut 50mm deep all the way round then finished the cut off with a handsaw (the oak was 250x200mm)

Are you talking about the HK or the TS? I was referring to the suggestion of using a clamp on rail square with the TS55 and normal track. 

 

[demographic]

Are you talking about the HK or the TS? I was referring to the suggestion of using a clamp on rail square with the TS55 and normal track.

Ahh, yeah. I was talking about using the HKC with FSK crosscut rail. And yeah the normal FS rails and TS55 isnt that well suited to cutting joists and studs.

 

[mlindholm]

I think the rail square looks like it would only work well with sheet goods.

It would be nice if something was available like the saw guides used in Japan. I think the key is how it indexes forward and down, with a handle to get a good purchase.

Ive used the rail on floor joists more times than I can remember, on decking where I often cut four 100mm decking boards at a time and even on big oak frames where I've cut 50mm deep all the way round then finished the cut off with a handsaw (the oak was 250x200mm)

Are you talking about the HK or the TS? I was referring to the suggestion of using a clamp on rail square with the TS55 and normal track.

I'm certainly not suggesting you hold the board over your knee, but I don't understand the concern.  I recognize it's not as convenient as the HKC system, with the saw secured to the rail, nor as compact as a circular saw and speed square.  I used my GRS-16, FS 800, and tracksaw (plus a small piece of foam insulation as a backer board) just last week in the manner described, to cut down a 2x4 into 4 24" sections at the home center.  It worked quite nicely, actually.

Are you talking about the HK or the TS? I was referring to the suggestion of using a clamp on rail square with the TS55 and normal track.

Ahh, yeah. I was talking about using the HKC with FSK crosscut rail. And yeah the normal FS rails and TS55 isnt that well suited to cutting joists and studs.

Why not?  The FS 800 isn't terribly inconvenient, or one could always use a 3rd party rail that's shorter (or cut down shorter) to make it even less inconvenient.  With the GRS-16, you just push it up against the edge of the lumber, and you're squared up...similar to how the HKC and FSK combo would work.

 

[Sourwould]

It just looks like an awkward way to make a cut on anything narrow. I don't know, I haven't used it. Like I said before, I wouldn't use either saw for framing lumber.

Does anyone here know if the mafell rip guide fits the festool saws?

 

[semenza]

It just looks like an awkward way to make a cut on anything narrow. I don't know, I haven't used it. Like I said before, I wouldn't use either saw for framing lumber.

Does anyone here know if the mafell rip guide fits the festool saws?

No need ............ Festool makes them for the TS and HK saws.  I have one that I have used on the TS55 a couple times. Don't like it much.

    HK = 500464 Parallel side Fence

    TS = 491469 Parallel Side Fence

      The short answer to your question is that you need the right tool for the job rather than trying to make a cutting station, jig, rail square, etc work.  For a one of situation or hobby that would be fine. But if you are doing quite a bit of this work  (sounds like you are ) and making money at it, then the outlay for the tool that makes it efficient is well worth it. In this case it is the HKC.  It is a big outlay but if you can find a way to make it happen the right tool will quickly make up for the cost.

    Maybe sell the TS to help buy the HK.

Seth

 

[Sourwould]

^I have the TS rip fence, it came with my saw when I bought it. It kinda sucks. The range is really limited. The Mafell one looks a lot better. I didn't realize the TS and HK had different rip fences. I figured they'd just use the same mounting distance on the saws.

Here's my siding set up. Just two blocks screwed to my old cut board and the rail screwed down. Works ok for the money. Almost zero dust from the Mirtec, which is amazing. Mirtec dust really bothers me.
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