Michael Kellough
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Taper ends of flutes
- Thread starter Michael Kellough
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Michael Kellough
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Worked pretty well in top>down direction.
[attachimg=1]
Awkward to difficult in the bottom>up direction.
Used a mirror to orient cutter over existing flute but that wasn’t enough. Had to rotate router 90 degrees because the battery overhang prevented the cutter from getting close enough to landing/tread. Should of thought of that when designing.
Also had to reduce depth of fence/guides so they could bypass tread bullnose. Still have to cut one side down to less than 1/4” to finish the starter newell.
[attachimg=2]
Also had to reduce depth of fence/guide rail to clear tread bullnose. Still have to cut one side down to less than 1/4” to finish.
Dust collection with the included dust chute on the M18 trim router worked very well. Didn’t realize how well until I had to make a run without it.
2 amp battery was best in this horizontal orientation and since feed rate was slow so I turned the motor speed down as low as it would go and got no burning with a new Freud bit.
These newell posts are thicker in middle than ends (I think the guy mishandled the planer and then sanded the marks out leaving the ends smaller) so the fence rig would jam when it got to middle or I had to leave it loose to pass the middle. Leaving it loose also allowed me to make a “run” as a loop avoiding climb cutting and it also automatically allowed the cutter path to be wider (beyond deliberately running the cutter a little deeper which also wider the flute) eliminating existing fuzz and burns from the original flutes.
[attachimg=1]
Awkward to difficult in the bottom>up direction.
Used a mirror to orient cutter over existing flute but that wasn’t enough. Had to rotate router 90 degrees because the battery overhang prevented the cutter from getting close enough to landing/tread. Should of thought of that when designing.
Also had to reduce depth of fence/guides so they could bypass tread bullnose. Still have to cut one side down to less than 1/4” to finish the starter newell.
[attachimg=2]
Also had to reduce depth of fence/guide rail to clear tread bullnose. Still have to cut one side down to less than 1/4” to finish.
Dust collection with the included dust chute on the M18 trim router worked very well. Didn’t realize how well until I had to make a run without it.
2 amp battery was best in this horizontal orientation and since feed rate was slow so I turned the motor speed down as low as it would go and got no burning with a new Freud bit.
These newell posts are thicker in middle than ends (I think the guy mishandled the planer and then sanded the marks out leaving the ends smaller) so the fence rig would jam when it got to middle or I had to leave it loose to pass the middle. Leaving it loose also allowed me to make a “run” as a loop avoiding climb cutting and it also automatically allowed the cutter path to be wider (beyond deliberately running the cutter a little deeper which also wider the flute) eliminating existing fuzz and burns from the original flutes.
Attachments
Michael Kellough said:
The smaller ones are called “rifflers”. Looking at the images, I cannot tell if they are push or pull files.
The image above is from Axminster.
Stu-Mac sells them and does Rockler plus a bunch more that I don’t know anything about.
Stu-Mac sells stringed instrument fabrication tools. I guess the files are for the ends of the necks on some stringed instruments.
https://www.google.com/search?q=riffler+pull+rasp&client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=6b1c5e95a3d0b06b&biw=1151&bih=707&sxsrf=ACQVn0-j5STDs5IdWgvVKZFXKD8jyAtTPQ%3A1713467914317&ei=CnIhZv7yErCo5NoPm_yukAs&ved=0ahUKEwj-n_eyvcyFAxUwFFkFHRu-C7IQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=riffler+pull+rasp&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiEXJpZmZsZXIgcHVsbCByYXNwMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYnwVIuCFQyAlYqxtwAXgBkAEAmAG3AaABgQmqAQMzLje4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgugApYKwgIKEAAYsAMY1gQYR8ICDRAAGIAEGLADGEMYigXCAhMQLhiABBiwAxhDGMgDGIoF2AEBwgIZEC4YgAQYsAMYQxjHARjIAxiKBRivAdgBAcICChAAGIAEGEMYigXCAgUQABiABMICBhAAGBYYHsICCBAAGBYYChgewgIIEAAYFhgeGA_CAggQLhgWGAoYHsICCBAAGIAEGKIEmAMAiAYBkAYLugYECAEYCJIHBDEuMTCgB8Ut&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
Michael Kellough
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As usual (as always?) those teeth are for pushing.
To taper the ends of the inaccessible (to the router rig) flutes a small shank tapered burr was used in a flexible shaft rotary tool and followed by sandpaper on an appropriate form.
To taper the ends of the inaccessible (to the router rig) flutes a small shank tapered burr was used in a flexible shaft rotary tool and followed by sandpaper on an appropriate form.
PaulMarcel
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Michael Kellough said:
Hate to say it, but they seemed rather sloppy and left you a lot of work to correct it after making it significantly more difficult to do. For example, that the flutes had so much burn and terminated rather randomly
Michael Kellough
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PaulMarcel said:
It would have taken nearly another day that wasn't available to do the fluting right but you're right, it would have been trivial to tack a stop in place to make all the flutes the same length. I approved since the priority was to get the whole balustrade installed and I knew I could fix the flutes later. During that process it was equally trivial to make the flutes the same length. In fact I did another pass over the full length of every flute on an outer surface. Still need to dress the interior (couple inches from a spindle) flutes.
When my brother-in-law tried to cut the slot for the glass in the hand rail assembly, managing the router was too difficult. In the end, all the posts were removed and the slots were cut on the table saw.
Part of the difficulty was that this was about 30 years ago and we did not have access to small, light routers. That might have tipped the scale in favor of using the router rather than the table saw.
On the table saw, it was a simple operation. The only down side was removing all the posts (about 12) and then re-installing them (and making sure that they were plumb.
I was surprised that there were no files that allowed cutting on the pull. The Japanese have been producing pull saws for hundreds of years. I would think that files would follow a similar course.
Part of the difficulty was that this was about 30 years ago and we did not have access to small, light routers. That might have tipped the scale in favor of using the router rather than the table saw.
On the table saw, it was a simple operation. The only down side was removing all the posts (about 12) and then re-installing them (and making sure that they were plumb.
I was surprised that there were no files that allowed cutting on the pull. The Japanese have been producing pull saws for hundreds of years. I would think that files would follow a similar course.
Crazyraceguy
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Looks like you have done a fine job of cleaning that up.
Seems like finishing in place might be a bit of a challenge too.
Seems like finishing in place might be a bit of a challenge too.
Michael Kellough
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Crazyraceguy said:
How so? Isn’t it standard procedure to finish after installation?
Completely off topic, don’t you need to add the Shaper Plate Edge to your list?
Cheese
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That looks great Michael...mission accomplished. [big grin] I never weighed in on this conversation originally because the angle block/router ramp/taper block approach appeared to me to be the only really viable solution and I figured that was obvious. Shame on me... seriously.
I find it interesting that as I try to off-load some of the seemingly easy projects to "professionals" to reduce my work load, I'm eventually drawn back into the fray because of the less than stellar results that I receive. I pay for a pro and then I have to fix the pro's mistakes...that's the reason I've always done things myself. If you do everything yourself...it's tough to blame someone else for the less than spectacular result. That's always been a "come to Jesus" kind of time for me.
To be clear, the pro's that are members on the FOG are indeed pros. But I'm having issues with the outlying local pros that I've interacted with...ya they maybe, but not so much...pros. They accomplish the job in the shortest amount of time possible but always need rework time after that.
So I find it horrific...absolutely horrific...that those routed grooves in the newell post end at various lengths. What was that person thinking or more importantly...not thinking?
On another note, some interesting color of that wood, I really like it. Light in color but heavily grained. [big grin]
I find it interesting that as I try to off-load some of the seemingly easy projects to "professionals" to reduce my work load, I'm eventually drawn back into the fray because of the less than stellar results that I receive. I pay for a pro and then I have to fix the pro's mistakes...that's the reason I've always done things myself. If you do everything yourself...it's tough to blame someone else for the less than spectacular result. That's always been a "come to Jesus" kind of time for me.
To be clear, the pro's that are members on the FOG are indeed pros. But I'm having issues with the outlying local pros that I've interacted with...ya they maybe, but not so much...pros. They accomplish the job in the shortest amount of time possible but always need rework time after that.
So I find it horrific...absolutely horrific...that those routed grooves in the newell post end at various lengths. What was that person thinking or more importantly...not thinking?
On another note, some interesting color of that wood, I really like it. Light in color but heavily grained. [big grin]
Michael Kellough
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Cheese, the guy was young and maybe had too much pride? to accept my offer of an MFT to work on. He did the routing on the floor with poor light (despite my providing lights). But he certainly could have tacked on a stop with his cordless 23 gauge gun…Or clamped on a stop if the post wasn’t on the floor…
Ultimately the uneven length was a non-issue since the taper rig easily (mostly) made new ends and allowed my router to continue on down the flute and clean up.
The wood is just rift sawn red oak. I chose it because it seemed the closest match to the century old rift sawn American Chestnut of the one remaining original newel post. Since red oak has a lot of open grain and this is rift sawn all you see is the grain pattern and no figure. I like that but really dislike the large swirly figure of plain sawn red oak and radiata pine.
Ultimately the uneven length was a non-issue since the taper rig easily (mostly) made new ends and allowed my router to continue on down the flute and clean up.
The wood is just rift sawn red oak. I chose it because it seemed the closest match to the century old rift sawn American Chestnut of the one remaining original newel post. Since red oak has a lot of open grain and this is rift sawn all you see is the grain pattern and no figure. I like that but really dislike the large swirly figure of plain sawn red oak and radiata pine.
Crazyraceguy
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Cheese said:
This brings up one of my most hated axioms of all time.
"There's never enough time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over."
That whole experience has a lot to do with why I have learned how to do so many different things in my life. Some were from necessity. (not being able to afford the price they wanted) Others were from situations like yours. (pay someone to do a sub-optimal or even sub-standard) Then have to finish/repair it myself anyway.
