Tapping 8020 Extrusions
- Thread starter greymann
- Start date
So this is interesting.
Seems like they designed some chip removal into it.
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/drill-taptool-kit
Seems like they designed some chip removal into it.
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/drill-taptool-kit
tomsharres
Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2014
- Messages
- 9
I machine and tap aluminum on a daily basis; lots of 2-56 holes. The best solution is a roll or form tap. It produces a stronger thread, is chip free and the tap is much stronger than a similar sized cut tap. Works well for materials no harder than mild steel, but best for non-ferrous materials.
The only issue is that the hole diameter to be tapped is larger than for an equivalent hole diameter for a cut tap.
I have linked a chart: http://www.championscrew.com/form_tap_drill.htm
You may have to drill/ream the extruded hole pattern of the 80/20 cross section for form taps to work.
I have power tapped larger taps sizes successfully with a cordless drill and without a guide, but I'd probably avoid anything under a 4mm or #8, and even then, tapping true to the hole centerline is iffy, and could still cause breakage.
Tom
The only issue is that the hole diameter to be tapped is larger than for an equivalent hole diameter for a cut tap.
I have linked a chart: http://www.championscrew.com/form_tap_drill.htm
You may have to drill/ream the extruded hole pattern of the 80/20 cross section for form taps to work.
I have power tapped larger taps sizes successfully with a cordless drill and without a guide, but I'd probably avoid anything under a 4mm or #8, and even then, tapping true to the hole centerline is iffy, and could still cause breakage.
Tom
rst said:
Old technology. Tapping is not done this way any more in the modern world. Hand tapping with "Hand Taps", yes, but many posters have emphasized the use of spiral flute points. In, Out, Done.
This thread illustrates the point there are many ways to get this job done. It is a bit like getting advice on breaking in an engine after a rebuild. Ask ten guys, get ten answers. Most poster could have started their post with that comment and then written: "Add this technique to the list that work."
tomsharres said:
Forming taps are cool but in 8020 that would require opening up the holes and in some profiles there would likely not be enough material to withstand the outward pressure and the walls may crack. I like forming taps when they can be used because there are no chips to deal with. [thumbs up]
Since this thread has started up again, I thought I would share my experiences and offer a few comments.
First, the extrusions don't seem to put much strain on the taps. I have now made 5 different tables for different purposes and have yet to dull my first tap. A while back I noticed what happens to the material being removed to form the threads.
[attachimg=1]
I also should point out that I use the 40 series light extrusions as opposed to the ultra-light that RMW uses. The difference is that mine only have the circular hole without the "wings" that his have. This should make mine more of a challenge to tap. But as you can see it simply pushes the waste up the hole in a spiral.
I personally don't see much application for the drill and tap taps ( it doesn't look like it would cut threads deep enough) but find the speedtaps interesting. Also just because they can work in an impact driver doesn't mean that they have to be used in one. I find the hex head the most interesting thing about them. Also all their mention of plate thickness seems to be just that, steel plate. I would like to hear any experiences with this application. But before I try it, I need to wear out this tap first.
Dick Perry
First, the extrusions don't seem to put much strain on the taps. I have now made 5 different tables for different purposes and have yet to dull my first tap. A while back I noticed what happens to the material being removed to form the threads.
[attachimg=1]
I also should point out that I use the 40 series light extrusions as opposed to the ultra-light that RMW uses. The difference is that mine only have the circular hole without the "wings" that his have. This should make mine more of a challenge to tap. But as you can see it simply pushes the waste up the hole in a spiral.
I personally don't see much application for the drill and tap taps ( it doesn't look like it would cut threads deep enough) but find the speedtaps interesting. Also just because they can work in an impact driver doesn't mean that they have to be used in one. I find the hex head the most interesting thing about them. Also all their mention of plate thickness seems to be just that, steel plate. I would like to hear any experiences with this application. But before I try it, I need to wear out this tap first.
Dick Perry
