Richard/RMW said:Here's the video footage.
RMW
SittingElf said:Richard/RMW said:Here's the video footage.
RMW
Errr.....wrong color drill in that video! Sacrilege! [wink]
You could end up with a lot of blue. (Yellow+Green=Blue) [big grin]
Helpful video that. Keeping that one for future reference.
Frank
greymann said:Hi Scorpion,
I like the jig. Now if I just had some metal working skills or equipment. I have a friend so I'll see if I can arrange something. You do lose some depth in tapping but it looks like it is still enough for this task. Since using this adds a lot to the time of the operation it again raises the question of whether trying to achieve that level of accuracy is necessary here.
I'm not sure where you got your extrusions but mine don't have the cross-hair slots in the center hole so I get much better results with the cutting fluid than without.
I did try my Milwaukee corded drill and found that I was holding the tail of a much too powerful tiger. It felt as if I could really mess up with the slightest slip. I went back to my Ryobi cordless and found that if I brace the drill to prevent breaking my wrist and use a slip jaw wrench on the chuck, I get it tight enough to use. It also has a bubble level so I can sight from side to side and use the level for the vertical. Using the spiral tap it is one pass in and out and the way I am inclined to go for now.
Dick Perry
greymann said:Hi Scorpion,
I like the jig. Now if I just had some metal working skills or equipment. I have a friend so I'll see if I can arrange something. You do lose some depth in tapping but it looks like it is still enough for this task. Since using this adds a lot to the time of the operation it again raises the question of whether trying to achieve that level of accuracy is necessary here.
I'm not sure where you got your extrusions but mine don't have the cross-hair slots in the center hole so I get much better results with the cutting fluid than without.
I did try my Milwaukee corded drill and found that I was holding the tail of a much too powerful tiger. It felt as if I could really mess up with the slightest slip. I went back to my Ryobi cordless and found that if I brace the drill to prevent breaking my wrist and use a slip jaw wrench on the chuck, I get it tight enough to use. It also has a bubble level so I can sight from side to side and use the level for the vertical. Using the spiral tap it is one pass in and out and the way I am inclined to go for now.
Dick Perry
Dane said:Hi everyone-
I followed this thread earlier this year when planning my own 80/20 bench. After burning out a corded Milwaukee drill trying to tap the holes, I decided to try the M12 impact driver. As you can see in the video- it appears to be the ultimate solution. At the end I show all the extrusions that I have tapped with one charge of the battery, which is still half full. The WD40 seems to the the key- a liberal application makes a difference of night and day. So far i've done about 50 holes without breaking the tap or seeing any signs of dulling. The hole I bored in the video was about the 20th one, and you can see how smoothly it goes. As to getting the holes straight- the hole in the extrusion seems to keep it straight without any other intervention on my part. The bolts bottom out flush. Anyway, hope this is helpful.
Dane said:Hi everyone-
I followed this thread earlier this year when planning my own 80/20 bench. After burning out a corded Milwaukee drill trying to tap the holes, I decided to try the M12 impact driver. As you can see in the video- it appears to be the ultimate solution. At the end I show all the extrusions that I have tapped with one charge of the battery, which is still half full. The WD40 seems to the the key- a liberal application makes a difference of night and day. So far i've done about 50 holes without breaking the tap or seeing any signs of dulling. The hole I bored in the video was about the 20th one, and you can see how smoothly it goes. As to getting the holes straight- the hole in the extrusion seems to keep it straight without any other intervention on my part. The bolts bottom out flush. Anyway, hope this is helpful.
Dane said:There's even a company that is marketing taps specifically for use with impact drivers: http://www.speedtaps.com
Richard/RMW said:I tap about 1" deep, not sure if it would work as well in solid AL.
RMW
I downloaded their SketchUp profiles for their extrusions and the ones with slot width of 0.32" or 8.14mm seem like they would be extremely tight with Festool clamps. Can you confirm some of these dimensions with your own experience?rst said:I tap with my M12 milwaukee all the time. What you need is considered a gun tap. Use slow speed and constant pressure and use WD40 or dedicated aluminum thread cutting fluid (available from machinist suppliers... Fastenal, MSC, etc). 8020 material is amazing stuff. Their 15 series works perfectly with Festools clamps.