Technique for Routing a Long Deep Slot

[jacko9]

Dado's aren't the most accurate. They aren't the cleanest channel either, if you ask me. They're good making a channel for 1/4 material to go in mostly. They're also an issue with how flat your table saw area is right next to the blade. A perfectly flat, flat with the table itself, insert is important. If the wood isn't entirely flat you'll get varied depths too, and you have to do your best to press it down to the table.

However I'd still have run the track saw or something down it, not at finish cut measurements.

WHAT - You would use a track saw on a board on end?  The entire rest of your statement is not to well thought out or you have never used a dado set on a good table saw.  As far as running a stopped slot on the end of a wide board - mark where your dado stack protrudes from the saw at each end and mark on your board where you want to start and stop your cut.  If you fence is too short clamp a wider piece to the face and use a feather board to hold it against the fence.  I do this cut all of the time with absolutely no problem and no dust/chips to deal with.  My Forrest Dado King Stack will cut up to 7/8" wide slot as deep as your blade diameter will allow.

You want to take the time to use a router good for you but, suggesting using a track saw is a very poor suggestion for any new woodworkers to be reading on this very good site.

Jack

 

[Brent Taylor]

I would get the Infinity straight bit with plunge point  (12-727), it's 1/2" x  1.5 " .  I have used there 1.5" mortising bit and have had great success with it, and the 1/2" bit I think you would be happy with the results.  I would also recommend that you  use two fences on your router  (I have two of the Festool guide fences,  but a pair of  blocks of wood drilled to match the spacing for the guide rods would do the trick) , check on the net about mortising,  especially Paul=Marcel or Greg Paolini video,  and also check out the bit  on You Tube .

 

[JeromeM]

Is surface finish of the groove important to you? They make solid carbide roughing end mills for metal working. Has anyone tried one in a router on wood?

I have pretty much switched to carbide end mills for all the sizes that fit my collets and lengths that suit my work though I haven't tried the roughing ones.
$14.5 for a 12mm spiral solid carbide end mill or $88 for a CMT 12mm router bit.
$3.6 for a 6mm spiral solid carbide end mill or $14 for a CMT bit. That is a no brainier. [blink]

I can't tell the difference. The only down side is that the end mills are usually shorter than the router bits but how often do you really need long bits and for when you do keep some of the expense router bits for that.

You can also get 3 and 4 flute end mills but you would really have to move fast to prevent burning with them.

You can also get imperial sizes if you don't do metric
[wink] 

 

[Cheese]

I have pretty much switched to carbide end mills for all the sizes that fit my collets and lengths that suit my work though I haven't tried the roughing ones.
$14.5 for a 12mm spiral solid carbide end mill or $88 for a CMT 12mm router bit.
$3.6 for a 6mm spiral solid carbide end mill or $14 for a CMT bit. That is a no brainier. [blink]

You can also get 3 and 4 flute end mills but you would really have to move fast to prevent burning with them.

[member=1518]Sometimewoodworker[/member]
I've had good luck with a couple of solid carbide end mills in wood. You're right, they cost 25% of the equivalent CMT or Bosch bit.

I tried a couple of OSG cobalt end mills in oak but they burned up pretty fast. I was in a hurry and pushing them pretty hard so it probably was more of an operator error thing.

The carbide roughing cutter does interest me for woodworking however. I just wonder how smooth the cut would be.

 

[JeremyH.]

Dado's aren't the most accurate. They aren't the cleanest channel either, if you ask me. They're good making a channel for 1/4 material to go in mostly. They're also an issue with how flat your table saw area is right next to the blade. A perfectly flat, flat with the table itself, insert is important. If the wood isn't entirely flat you'll get varied depths too, and you have to do your best to press it down to the table.

However I'd still have run the track saw or something down it, not at finish cut measurements.

WHAT - You would use a track saw on a board on end?  The entire rest of your statement is not to well thought out or you have never used a dado set on a good table saw.  As far as running a stopped slot on the end of a wide board - mark where your dado stack protrudes from the saw at each end and mark on your board where you want to start and stop your cut.  If you fence is too short clamp a wider piece to the face and use a feather board to hold it against the fence.  I do this cut all of the time with absolutely no problem and no dust/chips to deal with.  My Forrest Dado King Stack will cut up to 7/8" wide slot as deep as your blade diameter will allow.

You want to take the time to use a router good for you but, suggesting using a track saw is a very poor suggestion for any new woodworkers to be reading on this very good site.

Jack

On the contrary, you misunderstand. I said I'd run the tracksaw not as a finished cut. That means I'd just remove a little bit of meat before I ran the router. Having to do a dutchman because of a router issue sucks, and less meat makes handling the router easier.

Perhaps your tablesaw setup is much better than what I have used. I wouldn't call Delta Unisaws bad, however. The other issue with a tablesaw is you can't say do a giant piece you've laminated together and squared out afterword, so you have to use a router basically. I think having a track for the router (Festool) is pretty optimal.

 

[cblanton42]

Jeremy,
    The point you're missing, (I think), is you can't use a track saw on the 1.5 inch side of the board, it's too skinny to support the guide rail.  Too dangerous!

CB   

 

[JeremyH.]

Jeremy,
    The point you're missing, (I think), is you can't use a track saw on the 1.5 inch side of the board, it's too skinny to support the guide rail.  Too dangerous!

CB 

Oh, right... sorry.

 

[bkharman]

Jeremy,
    The point you're missing, (I think), is you can't use a track saw on the 1.5 inch side of the board, it's too skinny to support the guide rail.  Too dangerous!

CB 

If you have an MFT, you absolutely can. You can also do it with other work tables as well. You put the piece on the side of the table flush with the top, lay your rail on the table and have a go at it. It wouldn't be my first way of doing things but once I broke a router bit and needed to rabet a panel edge to make for a cabinet back and this method worked perfectly fine.

Cheers. Bryan.